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  1. #141
    Ive been fighting with abs as well.. Im finally getting some decent prints... And then im gon a rip it apart and replace everything with my new printed parts :-D

    If your hexagon came with a fan shroud like mine did to minimally direct air, try flipping the fan so that warm air is pulled up from the bed and part instead of cold air being blown down onto the part.

    All of my warps were happening on the back side of the part. After a laptop hd crash and re-setup a firmware update and abl recalibration... Not to mention fighting with octopi... And doing the rough esteps calibration....


    Things are currently flat :-) on my second part using glue stick

    Clough42s x carraige and fan shroud are 100% printed and flat...

    Now to reprint the cold end for an unwarped backip set... Some were only marginally warped... I want flat...

  2. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by sniffle View Post
    Ive been fighting with abs as well.. Im finally getting some decent prints... And then im gon a rip it apart and replace everything with my new printed parts :-D

    If your hexagon came with a fan shroud like mine did to minimally direct air, try flipping the fan so that warm air is pulled up from the bed and part instead of cold air being blown down onto the part.

    All of my warps were happening on the back side of the part. After a laptop hd crash and re-setup a firmware update and abl recalibration... Not to mention fighting with octopi... And doing the rough esteps calibration....


    Things are currently flat :-) on my second part using glue stick

    Clough42s x carraige and fan shroud are 100% printed and flat...

    Now to reprint the cold end for an unwarped backip set... Some were only marginally warped... I want flat...
    I'm printing another air guide as i type this to redirect the air up and away from the bed when i flip the fan lol i was thinking the same thing
    i'm going to get this all fixed (switched over)
    once i can get the parts i need to print in ABS

    another reason why my sig is true best tool for 3d printer repair is a 3d printer

    on another subject
    Clough42 can i get a copy of the solidworks files for this
    a want to add 2 places for some 1 watt leds to light up the filament just before the hotend (so glow in the dark glows while printing)
    stupid idea i know

    i really think it's the abs at this point the type of warp i see can be seen from a room away my 1" cube had nearly a 1/4in of warp/shrink

  3. #143
    Engineer clough42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by adamfilip View Post
    eta on hardware kit?
    Quote Originally Posted by kd7eir View Post
    I second that!
    A couple of days. The bearings just scanned into a nearby post office tonight. Hopefully I'll have them tomorrow, after which I'll need a few hours to get the listing up if everything is in order.

    Importing ball bearings is a pain.

  4. #144
    Engineer clough42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechMasterJoe View Post
    Well i have been trying to print this for the last 2 days nothing has worked to hold ABS down
    i can print all day in play and it comes out flawless using hairspray but in ABS the stuff just pops off the bed after about 30 layers and not just this any thing i print in ABS seams to do this
    can i get links to other known good ABS filaments and maybe some known good slic3r ABS settings

    i tried low in fill 10% + 3 shells(and more) , tried cura 14.09
    i can't even get 5mm tall 10x10 calibration cubes to stick to tune abs flow
    even a raft falls off the bed

    room temp 76deg F dead air no fans

    things tried
    hairspray
    glue stick
    abs slurry
    kepton tape
    even frog tape

    i print with abs all day at school and never have problems like this so i think it's this cheep eSun (prototype supply) ABS
    the PLa i get from prints better then any PLA i have used but I'm starting to think they suck at ABS

    added note if anyone needs belts i ordered mine off aliexpress i have them now in hand i have 52 of them left (my 1/8 on-road R/C uses them to lol )
    i have 30 of the 188mm used on the single extruder ver of this as well
    I have been running MakerFarm ABS with Garnier Fructis Extreme Hold #5 on glass at 100/110C, and I haven't had any trouble. Keeping stray air off the bed is important. Also, I have been getting different results from different colors of filament. Black and White adhere well and are easy to control when printed at 250C. Orange doesn't adhere as well and oozes more. Clear ABS is just awful. It's brittle. It pops off the bed at the slightest provocation and oozes and strings badly. If I lower the temperatures, then I get delamination. It's voodoo.

    I clean the glass with hot water and a sponge, dry it and then spray on enough hairspray to coat, but not run or drip. I then spray on another light coat after each print. It takes a print or two (with subsequent coats of hairspray) to get things sticking well. Eventually, the bed becomes rough with the outlines of previous prints, and I clean it off and start over. I probably do this every ten prints or so.

  5. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by clough42 View Post
    I have been running MakerFarm ABS with Garnier Fructis Extreme Hold #5 on glass at 100/110C, and I haven't had any trouble. Keeping stray air off the bed is important. Also, I have been getting different results from different colors of filament. Black and White adhere well and are easy to control when printed at 250C. Orange doesn't adhere as well and oozes more. Clear ABS is just awful. It's brittle. It pops off the bed at the slightest provocation and oozes and strings badly. If I lower the temperatures, then I get delamination. It's voodoo.

    I clean the glass with hot water and a sponge, dry it and then spray on enough hairspray to coat, but not run or drip. I then spray on another light coat after each print. It takes a print or two (with subsequent coats of hairspray) to get things sticking well. Eventually, the bed becomes rough with the outlines of previous prints, and I clean it off and start over. I probably do this every ten prints or so.
    i just did like 5 coats using the same hairspray
    1 thick coat let dry then cycle the bed (thick is not a runny coat thick as in covered)
    2 lite coats let dry then cycle the bed (lite is lite almost like a mist)
    then 2 more coats let dry
    then printed a single wall calibration a few times they have been sticking very well

    i cleaned bed with glass cleaner first (good automotive stuff with ammonia)

    i will try an abs part next if it fails I'm getting new ABS tomorrow (mater-hackers is 2miles away)

    print settings
    ET=240
    bed=110
    with ABL tuned using test indicator (i want my 1204 ball screw and anti backlash nuts off ali faster)
    layer 0.2mm prims .5mm wide
    first layer 0.35high 0.75 wide

    simple test parts single wall .5mm plus brim
    2014-12-30 23.58.25.jpg2014-12-31 00.01.48.jpg

  6. #146
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    Add RobH2 on Thingiverse
    Just a suggestion, this is a really useful thread about 'clough42's' extruder and it's getting pretty large. It would be nice to keep it on topic and continue the "sticking" issues on other threads that already are discussing "sticking." What do you think?
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  7. #147
    Super Moderator Roxy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobH2 View Post
    This is not the prettiest model but it might do the trick. If so, I'll make it nicer later. I know it's a long print but if you think this will do it give it a go.


    Attachment 3972
    Were the source files ever posted for this? For some reason, I think I remember looking into this before and the design was done in SolidWorks or something I don't use. I'm toying with the idea of reverse engineering this and doing the exact same thing in OpenScad. (All of my plastic pieces for my RepRap printer are done in OpenScad and that would be the easiest way to cleanly merge it with my X-Carrage. Especially since I want to add connectors for all my wires and such too.) I guess I should print one and see what I would want to do to get it to mount.

  8. #148
    Engineer clough42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roxy View Post
    Were the source files ever posted for this? For some reason, I think I remember looking into this before and the design was done in SolidWorks or something I don't use. I'm toying with the idea of reverse engineering this and doing the exact same thing in OpenScad. (All of my plastic pieces for my RepRap printer are done in OpenScad and that would be the easiest way to cleanly merge it with my X-Carrage. Especially since I want to add connectors for all my wires and such too.) I guess I should print one and see what I would want to do to get it to mount.
    Yes, I designed all of the parts in SolidWorks. To adapt this to another X Carriage system, I would focus on the shelf. Everything but the Z probe servo mounts to that. Here are the relevant dimensions:


    ShelfDimensions.JPG
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #149
    Super Moderator Roxy's Avatar
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    Thank You! That will make things much easier! Do you have a similar document calling out all the dimensions of the actual dual extruder?

  10. #150
    Engineer clough42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roxy View Post
    Thank You! That will make things much easier! Do you have a similar document calling out all the dimensions of the actual dual extruder?
    Hmm...that one's harder. It's all curves and lofts. Even the filament path through the block is curved. I might be able to put something together for the geometry of the hardware, but it'll take me a little while to get to it.

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