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Thread: Itty Bitty Double Extruder
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12-30-2014, 09:49 PM #141
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Posts
- 522
Ive been fighting with abs as well.. Im finally getting some decent prints... And then im gon a rip it apart and replace everything with my new printed parts :-D
If your hexagon came with a fan shroud like mine did to minimally direct air, try flipping the fan so that warm air is pulled up from the bed and part instead of cold air being blown down onto the part.
All of my warps were happening on the back side of the part. After a laptop hd crash and re-setup a firmware update and abl recalibration... Not to mention fighting with octopi... And doing the rough esteps calibration....
Things are currently flat :-) on my second part using glue stick
Clough42s x carraige and fan shroud are 100% printed and flat...
Now to reprint the cold end for an unwarped backip set... Some were only marginally warped... I want flat...
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12-30-2014, 10:56 PM #142
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Location
- Orange, CA
- Posts
- 78
I'm printing another air guide as i type this to redirect the air up and away from the bed when i flip the fan lol i was thinking the same thing
i'm going to get this all fixed (switched over)
once i can get the parts i need to print in ABS
another reason why my sig is true best tool for 3d printer repair is a 3d printer
on another subject
Clough42 can i get a copy of the solidworks files for this
a want to add 2 places for some 1 watt leds to light up the filament just before the hotend (so glow in the dark glows while printing)
stupid idea i know
i really think it's the abs at this point the type of warp i see can be seen from a room away my 1" cube had nearly a 1/4in of warp/shrink
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12-31-2014, 01:28 AM #143
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12-31-2014, 01:41 AM #144
I have been running MakerFarm ABS with Garnier Fructis Extreme Hold #5 on glass at 100/110C, and I haven't had any trouble. Keeping stray air off the bed is important. Also, I have been getting different results from different colors of filament. Black and White adhere well and are easy to control when printed at 250C. Orange doesn't adhere as well and oozes more. Clear ABS is just awful. It's brittle. It pops off the bed at the slightest provocation and oozes and strings badly. If I lower the temperatures, then I get delamination. It's voodoo.
I clean the glass with hot water and a sponge, dry it and then spray on enough hairspray to coat, but not run or drip. I then spray on another light coat after each print. It takes a print or two (with subsequent coats of hairspray) to get things sticking well. Eventually, the bed becomes rough with the outlines of previous prints, and I clean it off and start over. I probably do this every ten prints or so.
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12-31-2014, 02:41 AM #145
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Location
- Orange, CA
- Posts
- 78
i just did like 5 coats using the same hairspray
1 thick coat let dry then cycle the bed (thick is not a runny coat thick as in covered)
2 lite coats let dry then cycle the bed (lite is lite almost like a mist)
then 2 more coats let dry
then printed a single wall calibration a few times they have been sticking very well
i cleaned bed with glass cleaner first (good automotive stuff with ammonia)
i will try an abs part next if it fails I'm getting new ABS tomorrow (mater-hackers is 2miles away)
print settings
ET=240
bed=110
with ABL tuned using test indicator (i want my 1204 ball screw and anti backlash nuts off ali faster)
layer 0.2mm prims .5mm wide
first layer 0.35high 0.75 wide
simple test parts single wall .5mm plus brim
2014-12-30 23.58.25.jpg2014-12-31 00.01.48.jpg
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12-31-2014, 09:22 AM #146
Just a suggestion, this is a really useful thread about 'clough42's' extruder and it's getting pretty large. It would be nice to keep it on topic and continue the "sticking" issues on other threads that already are discussing "sticking." What do you think?
Bambu P1S/AMS
NVision4D http://nvision4d.com
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12-31-2014, 10:13 AM #147
Were the source files ever posted for this? For some reason, I think I remember looking into this before and the design was done in SolidWorks or something I don't use. I'm toying with the idea of reverse engineering this and doing the exact same thing in OpenScad. (All of my plastic pieces for my RepRap printer are done in OpenScad and that would be the easiest way to cleanly merge it with my X-Carrage. Especially since I want to add connectors for all my wires and such too.) I guess I should print one and see what I would want to do to get it to mount.
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12-31-2014, 04:43 PM #148
Yes, I designed all of the parts in SolidWorks. To adapt this to another X Carriage system, I would focus on the shelf. Everything but the Z probe servo mounts to that. Here are the relevant dimensions:
ShelfDimensions.JPG
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12-31-2014, 05:18 PM #149
Thank You! That will make things much easier! Do you have a similar document calling out all the dimensions of the actual dual extruder?
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12-31-2014, 08:50 PM #150
Please explain to me how to...
05-17-2024, 12:15 PM in 3D Printer Parts, Filament & Materials