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  1. #91
    Thanks for the tips

    I cleaned out that area by scraping a large flat end screwdriver in their and now it's pretty flat.

    When I cleaned out the filament hole, I ended up putting a little bevel on it. I hope it won't negatively affect it.

    The filament moves pretty freely through both holes with just a small amount of resistance. Is that fine, or do I need to touch it up with something?

    BTW. Given that I'm about to go to the time and expense of implementing dual extrusion, is their any benefit of changing over from 1.75mm to 3mm filament?

    Great community - appreciate all of the help

  2. #92
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clough42 View Post
    Yes, you need to cut out the support bridging across the bottom of the filament channel. I usually use an X-Acto knife. I just insert the tip into the center hole and sweep around the hole to clean it out. If you have a print cooling fan, enable it when printing bridges, and those strings across the bottom of the channel should tighten up and make a nice, flat platform. If your printer can't do this, you'll probably need to use support. Be careful, though. You don't want to be generating support inside the filament channel.

    RobH2 has reported that the inside of the filament channel didn't come out clean for him. I haven't seen his prints, so I don't know exactly what he's seeing. The filament channels are octagonal, to try to improve dimensional stability over round holes, and they print cleanly on my printer. The filament slides through cleanly for me with no cleanup.
    Yea, maybe it was blobby inside or some other issue. The outside looked beautiful so I expected the inside to be the same. Could be just a one-time malfunction on my end. When I put filament it the first time it just snagged a bit. So, I reemed it with the all-thread and then it was smooth as glass. Who knows. Bottom line, the model 'clough42' built is a very clean file. I'm sure my issue was not related to the model but to the printer.

    BTW, what is that red handled thing that we all need?
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  3. #93
    Engineer-in-Training beerdart's Avatar
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    The red handle thing is as I call it a whirlegig deburr tool. It will shave time off your tasks so you can spend time with the misses. Lol.

  4. #94
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    here is the hotend model
    https://grabcad.com/library/hexagon-hotend-1
    if anyone wants it

  5. #95
    Engineer-in-Training beerdart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechMasterJoe View Post
    here is the hotend model
    https://grabcad.com/library/hexagon-hotend-1
    if anyone wants it
    Fantastic. Joe thanks for sharing

  6. #96
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    More to ship than to buy

    Quote Originally Posted by clough42 View Post
    Yes. 200-2GT (6mm). You can get them for less than $4 each shipped on eBay. I'll be curious what RobotDigg charges you to ship a small order.
    Robotdigg wants $1/belt for shipping - 60! day delivery...

  7. #97
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    Got it too Joe. Looks great. I created a rough one for major dimensions to work with Itty Bitty but it's nice to have a full model. Thanks.
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  8. #98
    Engineer clough42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbuMaia View Post
    What is it? The picture is too small for me to see it clearly.
    It's a deburring tool. Sometimes also called an edge breaker.

    http://www.amazon.com/SHAVIV-151-900...deburring+tool

  9. #99
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    Yep, figured it out and coincidentally, that's exactly what I ordered 3 hours ago.
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  10. #100
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    http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ll=1#post38812
    made a extreme hotbed switching board if anyone is interested..
    20$ shipped with 6ft of 10ga ultra flex silicone cable and 3pairs of XT60 connectors
    .052v drop at 60amps .03 at 30amps opto-isolated

    ATX brain still in the works

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