Printbus, Help!

[Zulfe]

Just received my heat bed relay. I connected one wire of the bed to J2 and ground from my PSU to J2. I connected the other wire to the OUT terminal on J1 and 12v to the IN on J1. My bed still isn't heating. I have changed any firmware yet. According to what I downloaded from the build guide (which I assume is what my printer is running), my motherboard type is 33. I assume this is so because I found '#define MOTHERBOARD 33' in the configuration.h file included in the download in the i3v 8" build guide. Is there something I'm missing, maybe a specific pin redefinition for the heat bed?

I need it to go to D09 instead of staying on D10.

[printbus]

Just received my heat bed relay. I connected one wire of the bed to J2 and ground from my PSU to J2. I connected the other wire to the OUT terminal on J1 and 12v to the IN on J1. My bed still isn't heating. I have changed any firmware yet. According to what I downloaded from the build guide (which I assume is what my printer is running), my motherboard type is 33. I assume this is so because I found '#define MOTHERBOARD 33' in the configuration.h file included in the download in the i3v 8" build guide. Is there something I'm missing, maybe a specific pin redefinition for the heat bed?

I need it to go to D09 instead of staying on D10.

Message received. Please stand by. With now two people struggling with heat bed relay wiring, I'll put together some wiring diagrams and try to explain things more than the build guide does. As soon as I finish packing for a couple weeks of international travel, I'll get on it. If anyone else wants to jump in, go ahead.

[Zulfe]

I attempted to fix it myself by editing some code in the pins.h file. I found the motherboard 33 pin setup and changed the bed to 9. When I hooked everything up, uploading the firmware, and ran it using Pronterface, either my board or the relay started rapidly clicking. I immediately turned off my PSU, afraid that I was frying my RAMPS board. I contacted Colin and told him about my issue. He modified and sent me some code. I uploaded it and ran it, but had the same issue when heating the bed from Pronterface. I told him about it and he said:

Usually it won't click rapidly, but I have seen that happen when using non stock firmware, since you are using the firmware I sent over I wouldn't think it would click on and off rapidly (once less then ever second)

When I try and heat the bed from the printer LCD, it doesn't making the clicking noise except once as soon as I initiate the heating. Is it just that Pronterface is sending the same code over and over to the printer, causing it to do this? Just the noise scares me, and my heating LED which is normally very bright is only ~15% its normal brightness, which also worried me.

[printbus]

Other comments -

Pronterface or gcode commands simply tell the printer what temperature to go to. The heat bed relay will normally turn on and stay on until the bed is at temperature. Then the PID control loop in Marlin will start turning the relay on and off at the rate it feels it needs to in order to maintain temperature.

The relay is very loud, so at least hearing loud clicks is normal. The somewhat random clicking in your video makes me wonder if the associated polyfuse could be opening up and then resetting. Straighten out any wiring issues and pin conflicts and we'll go from there.

EDIT: More info. All three of the power control outputs have an LED on the RAMPS board. LED2 follows D8. LED3 follows D9. LED4 follows D10. When a given output is turned on, the respective LED will light up. It will be very normal for an LED to flash on and off in sync with the clicking of the heat bed relay. A dimmer than usual LED would mean that either the 12V source to that output is lower in voltage than it should be or that the MOSFET switch for that output isn't turning on fully. Well, or it's being turned on and off at a very fast rate and the eye is averaging it to a dim state.

[Zulfe]

Printbus, you are a goddamn genius.

I fixed the pin conflicts which Colin had accidentally left (as did I when I modified the code) and it works like a charm. One click every 5 or so seconds instead of the constant clicking on and off.

Thank you so much!

[printbus]

Printbus, you are a goddamn genius.

I fixed the pin conflicts which Colin had accidentally left (as did I when I modified the code) and it works like a charm. One click every 5 or so seconds instead of the constant clicking on and off.

Thank you so much!

Glad I was here for you. Starting tomorrow would have been a different story. I'll be checking in far less frequently over the next two weeks. PMs will send me an email and likely get my attention faster. It could be a day or two before I notice a new thread sent my way!

[Zulfe]

Glad I was here for you. Starting tomorrow would have been a different story. I'll be checking in far less frequently over the next two weeks. PMs will send me an email and likely get my attention faster. It could be a day or two before I notice a new thread sent my way!

Yeah? Where are you going?
I guess I better be careful this next week.

[AbuMaia]

I have the relay board (from MakerFarm) connected thus: the two wires soldered to the relay board I have plugged into D8 on RAMPS. Negative wire from the power supply plugs into IN, one wire from the heat bed plugs into OUT. The other terminal block holds the Positive wire from the power supply and the other wire from the heat bed. I did not have to make any firmware changes to use the relay board. I use motherboard 33.

[Zulfe]

I have the relay board (from MakerFarm) connected thus: the two wires soldered to the relay board I have plugged into D8 on RAMPS. Negative wire from the power supply plugs into IN, one wire from the heat bed plugs into OUT. The other terminal block holds the Positive wire from the power supply and the other wire from the heat bed. I did not have to make any firmware changes to use the relay board. I use motherboard 33.

Are you sure that's correct? I configured mine according to the Makerfarm site which says:

Connect J2 to one heat bed wire and GND from your power supply. Connect J1 In to 12v+ from your power supply and connect the other heat bed wire to J1 out, then connect the two small Pre-Soldered wires to your Heat Bed out put of your electronics (D8 for RAMPS, Heat bed port for Printrboard etc)

[AbuMaia]

Yes, it's correct. It's been working for me with no trouble. The only difference is I have my Negative and Positive 12v wires on opposite blocks than your instructions state. Why didn't you leave it on D8 instead of switching it to D9 and making lots of work?