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  1. #11
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Part of why it's surprising is that the material isn't the normal plywood. It's veneered MDF. I'm sure though that if the veneer is inconsistent on the two sides and it goes through a significant humidity change, bad things could happen.

  2. #12
    Super Moderator JohnA136's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiniMadRyan View Post
    I would also check to see what the gcode output looks like in your print software. I remember from my Printrbot days, but in some cases, your layer height settings in repeater can cause those edges as well. Your Z steps value can also affect the ribbing that you are seeing. This was a common error on my first printer. The following thread has a great write up on the science behind it

    http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/v...hp?f=20&t=2653
    Our printrbot was doing the ripples but after reading that post and adjusting the layer height, it is much better.

  3. #13
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiniMadRyan View Post
    I would also check to see what the gcode output looks like in your print software. I remember from my Printrbot days, but in some cases, your layer height settings in repeater can cause those edges as well. Your Z steps value can also affect the ribbing that you are seeing. This was a common error on my first printer. The following thread has a great write up on the science behind it

    http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/v...hp?f=20&t=2653
    Thought I'd add that I think this is almost a non-issue for the MakerFarm printers since they use M5 Z-rods. The numbers can get funky for Printrbot and other printers with Imperial (inch) threaded rods since the calculations have to include the Imperial-to-metric conversion.

    The Optimal Layer Height calculator at http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/ makes it easy (and fun?) to experiment with the different parameters involved. With inch-threaded rods, you have to work to come up with a metric layer height that involves an integer number of motor steps. With metric-threaded rods, you have to work to come up with a layer height that does not.
    Last edited by printbus; 09-13-2014 at 12:39 PM.

  4. #14
    Still waiting on my new bed to arrive, but my old bed is slightly less warped than it was yesterday. The idler now makes contact with the extrusion, its not as tight as I would like but it no longer has the giant wobble. I decided to try and print the yoda head. It turned out pretty well, a few of the overhangs didn't quite work on the chin and the ears. I accidentally set the infill to 0.2% rather than 20 percent (I was used to slic3r wanting infill as a fraction of 1). It took me several tries to get it to stick well. I was leveling the bed while it was cool, and then it was different with the bed hot, so I had to level the bed with it hot and then adjust my endstop and it worked well.2014-09-13 13.20.30.jpg2014-09-13 15.34.47.jpg

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