Nylon 618 and the flashforge creator.

[curious aardvark]

So I finally got round to making a spool for my nylon618 that fits the existing spool holder.
Respooled this morning and just changed over for an extended play.



First thing is a bag clippit for a friend who wants something to clamp the umbilical cords on new born piglets.

Figured nylon fit all the relevant criteria.
Super tough, easy to clean and flexible enough to make opening the clip easy. Made out of abs you need a screwdriver to prise the buggers apart once they're clipped !

I'm printing on my blue tape. Just recalibrated the bed.

First attempt was without raft and print bed at 65c, print head at 245. 40mm print speed.
Warped like a bastard , came unstuck halfway through. (had the same issue with pla versions as well)

Second attempt is looking good.
That's with bed at 40c and a raft.

68% and no warpage, looks clean, fair bit of stringing. But on this model that'll be easy to clean up with a couple quick cuts.
No delamination that i can see.

Okay finished and looks pretty good.

nylonclippitstringing_440x600.jpg

nylonclippitcleaned_429x600.jpg

You can see the stringing, but was pretty easy to remove.

So pretty good success, for the first attempt.
Got a couple things I want to use the nylon for, so we'll see how it goes :-)

Any tips welcome :-)

[curious aardvark]

Okay day 2.

Printed out some table cloth clips as the abs ones have broke.

First ones I did at room temp bed and 40mms print speed.
Had a little lift on the raft and stringing.

Second pair - 40c printbed and 60mms printspeed.
No lift and noticeably less stringing.

So ideal print bed temp to date is 40c

And print speed as for abs. I pretty much print everything at 60 or 70 mms.
Slow enough for quality prints, but fast enough for reduced print times and seems to put least stress on geraldine.

I'll try one without raft next just because :-)

Might bump travel speed up a bit as well. usually use 100mms - but to reduce stringing maybe going faster would work.

Yep that worked perfectly. This stuff is way better for raftless prints than abs - on my machine anyway. either that or I just nailed the last print bed calibration.

***

Got ambitious and tried 4 clips at once. Front three were fine but back one started lifting almost immediately.
Cancelled and redid with just the three at the front. No problem at all. I guess the back of the plate is a microscopic smidgen lower than the front.

[curious aardvark]

So last night thought I'd make some different sized nozzles for my sausage stuffer. To get technical collagen sausage casing comes in a compact tube with a small hole down the middle. None of the tubes that cvome with sausage stuffers actually fit into this hole. So you have to pull the casing out and feed it manually back onto the stuffing tube.

One of the reasons I wanted a3d printer was to make some stuffing tubes that would actually fit the collagen as it comes.

Nylon is ideal for this. Yeah right lol

stuffing tube looks like this:

small stuffing tube1.jpg

Looks like a pretty basic print. And given how well the clips printed I thought this would be a breeze.
But I was wrong.

First print was okay and produced what I was after.

tiny stuffingstube.jpg

Until I looked down the tube. For some reason it had created a choke point that wasn't in the design.
Tried a couple more times and just got serious warpage on the flat disc.
Turns out a flat disc is NOT a nylon friendly shape.

Currently printing one in abs. Not sure if it will be strong enough - but it's a lot more user friendly.
Also curious to see if I get the same choke point.

[jfkansas]

I've been printing Taulman Bridge ad 240, 80HBP. Using permanent glue stick on Glass. Fully enclosed machine.

[curious aardvark]

yeah I'm hoping to get some bargain price bridge at the tct show.
The 618 is apparently way harder to use.

Curious to see if the new cooling system makes it more or less prone to warpage. I'd think less - but my reasoning might be topsy turvy :-)
I'm working on the assumption that cooling (and consequently shrinking) the filament at the point of deposition will cut back on warpage as it won't gradually shrink over time as the layers are built up - which is what causes warping - plastic at different temps and expansion in the ame model. Particularly with it printing on a cool bed there shouldn't be any incentive for it to expand and contract after the initial deposition and cooling.

It does stick really well to the blue tape. And small items do print quite well.

I also had the roll in my dehydrator for about 8 hours before putting it in the sealed bag aftre the last printing session. So that should help as well. The 618 does seem capable of sucking moisture even from the dryest environment.

[3DPBuser]

Nice hinge on the first print; would love to see a lot of these types of things.

I bet these would print well in PET too.

Good idea about cooling-at-deposition.

[curious aardvark]

the clips are from thingiverse.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30664
i used the .scad file and modified length and thickness

[userksh]

Hi, hope you can help. im using Bridge Nylon, but I cant get the layer stick ok (very bad delamination) , I started with 235 up to 245 degrees , layer at .25 and 60 mm speed, any suggestions? thanks

[curious aardvark]

hotter nylon and slower print speed generally fixes lamination. Printspeed is probably your key.

Stay with 245 but drop your printspeed down to 40mm/s.