MakerFarm 10" i3v build

[mikamiko]

"It is very easy to build" like it

[printbus]

Id like to find a way to do Clough42s setup and still have a fan on the side,
I dont like the idea of mounting a fan in the front, cant see the extruder as well.

Here's a possibility for a print cooler - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:271875. It's meant for another printer, but it should adapt to the 13/13v, depending on routing of wires going to the hot end. The blower mounts to the spare mounting hole on the extruder motor, with a flexible duct that is routed to the print area.

The left-side blower I'm using leaves a lot of room for auto-leveling stuff since the blower is mounted forward to line up with the hot end. It'd take some creativity to make a standard servo with a swing arm work, but some day I may look at using some sort of linear one that moves a microswitch vertically, or using a linear conversion on a rotary servo.

[usarmyaircav]

Printbus is that first one the kind of servo that tilts the blades on a collective pitch RC helicopter? Not to get too off track but since seeing your sig, I have been interested in RC helicopters again. I worked on Cobra and Apache Attack helicopters in the Army.

[printbus]

Printbus is that first one the kind of servo that tilts the blades on a collective pitch RC helicopter? Not to get too off track but since seeing your sig, I have been interested in RC helicopters again. I worked on Cobra and Apache Attack helicopters in the Army.

Sort of. Smaller RC helicopters often use linear servos to move the swashplate, which ultimately controls the pitch of the main blades. The linear servos are used since they're small and light. Larger RC helicopters will use rotary servos since they're stronger and likely faster. A collective pitch heli will have four servos - three controlling the swashplate and an additional one controlling blade pitch on the tail.

[MiniMadRyan]

Printbus is that first one the kind of servo that tilts the blades on a collective pitch RC helicopter? Not to get too off track but since seeing your sig, I have been interested in RC helicopters again. I worked on Cobra and Apache Attack helicopters in the Army.

Funny enough I work on the EO/IR on those platforms

Jtice, I haven't provisioned for the auto bed levelling system just yet. I toyed with the thought of mounting the servo on the opposite side of the platform. The issue is with the carriage there's limited space due to the vertical design, that and the hexagon hot end's required fan takes up a good spot. I think it wouldn't be too hard to fashion a new mount and duct that is a little further forward and narrower, so it would clear the servo and switch. I will have to try when I get to doing an auto bed solution.

[MiniMadRyan]

Had a strange occurrence last night and tonight. When i went to print last night, my first print i noticed that the z height was off, the extruder was too high. No big deal, re-aligned and no issues at all that night (aside from me wanting cleaner prints) Come back tonight and fire it up, first print, the extruder is now too close, filament won't extrude, its that close. So i re-adjust to what I am thinking is roughly where it was at before. I didn't do much to the printer in-between, other than changing the print fan, so I don't know if that would have knocked something out, but it seemed weird...

[jtice]

Mine does that alot also, it seems the bed , or the nozzle, are at different heights each day.
I have noticed that it makes a difference if its your first print of the day, I think the wood part of the print bed is expanding when its warm.
I preheat mine for 8 o 10 minutes now before I start my first print.
It helps, but I still have to adjust at times.

[dacb]

Some sources of noise I have identified from my build:

• Filament spool holder. I'm using the stock "spool holder." It isn't in a bad position. I adds weight to keep the frame anchored and it feeds naturally into the extruder. However, the spool doesn't really rotate around the cross piece as much as lurch. There is probably a clever solution on the 3D object sites, but I am just filing the cross member towards round at each filament spool swap. Lo-tech.

• LCD mount. buzz.... See clough42's spacer. Through random chance I had some thick foam "washers" with an adhesive bottom that worked.

• Spun belt drive gears. Several times now, I have noticed that the timing pulleys like to drop set screws. On both the X & Y axes, the set screws for the servo motor gear come loose and will potentially dislodge. This isn't brain surgery, but it is annoying. Something odd is happening here with fit in my kit. Maybe next time I tighten, I'll loctite blue. Symptoms: First, smearing: smearing on an axis. When the angular variation at each direction change are large enough, the print will seem to smear with inadequate filament feed rate. IT looks bad! Second: noise. The axis will pull strongly to either direction, but as the gear slips on reversal, it will hesitate (as the motor reverses, but the gear/pulley is not engaged) and then catch with a click or tick. If it goes far enough, it will be a thud after each direction change on an axis that is large enough. You could miss this sound for lots of reasons: kids, too much 1812 Overture when you were a kid, or life.

[gmay3]

Some sources of noise I have identified from my build:

• Filament spool holder. I'm using the stock "spool holder." It isn't in a bad position. I adds weight to keep the frame anchored and it feeds naturally into the extruder. However, the spool doesn't really rotate around the cross piece as much as lurch. There is probably a clever solution on the 3D object sites, but I am just filing the cross member towards round at each filament spool swap. Lo-tech.

dacb, this might save you some elbow grease. I've been using this and it's running better for sure.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:326641

[dacb]

Works great with my ABS spools! It is a tad too large for my PLA. On my todo list is to remix it slightly thinner. I think the way you designed it is perfect for thinning. Thanks!