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[gmay3]

Apologies to everyone who has tried my spool holder to find things missing.

I have uploaded the missing middle part.

It looks like I probably uploaded the wrong 'right side part' probably choosing the version right before it was fixed in netfabb/microsoft model fixer. Sketchup models tend to need fixing as a default. I will check this out tonight and fix the problem!

Thanks to everyone who has left a comment here and on thingiverse letting me know of the issues! I appreciate it!

[usarmyaircav]

I printed out the left side this weekend, and it looks good. I had some the front corner lift off the heat bed, but I think it might still be ok to use. Hoping so. I will print out the at least one other part tonight.

[adamfilip]

Dual Extruder Tilt Plate for calibration

I posted new stl, and photos, I have this now installed.. and right now both my hotends appear to be dead level.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:664362

I levelled my X carriage to the Y rails.. to remove any compensation i tried earlier
calibration isnt hard., pull the bed all the way forward so the hotends are just touching the back of the bed,
loosen bottom two tilt bolts, lower hotends until they touch bed. slight pressure from lowering will make the hotends automatically tilt
until they are both touching.. you can also wiggle it until it looks level.. double check with gap tool and tighten bolts from behind and underneath and its done.

btw lego works great as a guide to level the X to the Y

[clough42]

Dual Extruder Tilt Plate for calibration

I posted new stl, and photos, I have this now installed.. and right now both my hotends appear to be dead level.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:664362

I levelled my X carriage to the Y rails.. to remove any compensation i tried earlier
calibration isnt hard., pull the bed all the way forward so the hotends are just touching the back of the bed,
loosen bottom two tilt bolts, lower hotends until they touch bed. slight pressure from lowering will make the hotends automatically tilt
until they are both touching.. you can also wiggle it until it looks level.. double check with gap tool and tighten bolts from behind and underneath and its done.

btw lego works great as a guide to level the X to the Y

Very nice. Thanks for sharing your design.

You could make it even better by printing the spacers as a part of the plate.

[adamfilip]

That's a good idea. i will make a update

[usarmyaircav]

Not really a major upgrade to the printer look or form, but I purchases a sheet of PEI and some 3m adhesive, and am really enjoying not having to use hairspray, gluestick or ABS juice. The most I do is occasionally do a light sanding with 2,000 grit sand paper, and then wiping it down with rubbing alcohol.

[RobH2]

Can you talk a bit more about the PEI you bought? I'm seeing 1/4" pieces at 12x12 inches that are nearly $100. What exact product are you using (..or, where did you get it?) and have you used or compared it's "stickablity" to Garolite?

[usarmyaircav]

I spent a ton of time reading over at the seemecnc site about it after doing a google search. I had previously just used the stock glass, never really saw anyone say much about the garolite, so never thought to try it. I think I paid like $30 USD for both the PEI sheet and the 3m double sided adhesive. I ordered these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The seller I got the adhesive doesn't have a link to the same one I bought, but I think this is similar - http://www.amazon.com/TapeCase-468MP...FKK8WD8CH46276, although I got a single sheet. I saw that a lot of the guys over at seemecnc bought a roll of like 1" and did strips which might be easier to apply. I am still experimenting with temps and have tried 90 to 105ish, supposedly you can print at a lower temp, I will try 75-85ish and maybe a brim to see how that goes. I read that the higher the temp the harder to get the part to remove. I won't link to the topic, but I can PM if anyone wants it.

[adamfilip]

Do you need the adhesive, can you not just hold it down with the clips to some glass?

[RobH2]

Good answers. Thanks for those.

I have the same question as Adam, why the adhesive and not clips. If you use adhesive and for some reason want to take it off, say to use wood for printing nylon, then it's a tough task and you risk damaging your heated bed. Can you not hold it down with clips for some reason?

Edit:

I see, because it's .03" thick. In that case, I guess you could stick it to glass and then just clip that sandwich down and remove it when necessary. Is that how you do it?