MakerFarm 8" i3v Prusa build by Printbus

[printbus]

For me, both the X and Y axis movements were reversed in Pronterface and Repetier-Host. I eventually got annoyed by it and swapped the motor directions (by rotating the motor plugs on RAMPS by 180 degrees) and by moving the endstop switch locations to the opposite ends of the travel. I'm pretty sure you can deal with all this in firmware changes, but I wasn't ready to jump into modifying the firmware at the time.

I've had the hex hot end fan pulling air from day one. It helps with ABS prints by reducing airflow pushing down on the print below the extruder.

[usarmyaircav]

For me, both the X and Y axis movements were reversed in Pronterface and Repetier-Host. I eventually got annoyed by it and swapped the motor directions (by rotating the motor plugs on RAMPS by 180 degrees) and by moving the endstop switch locations to the opposite ends of the travel. I'm pretty sure you can deal with all this in firmware changes, but I wasn't ready to jump into modifying the firmware at the time.

I've had the hex hot end fan pulling air from day one. It helps with ABS prints by reducing airflow pushing down on the print below the extruder.

Thanks Printbus and Gmay3. I will leave it as it is for now until it annoys me. I am pretty much planning on only doing ABS, so sounds like it should be fine.

I just need to figure out what is binding on the right side, get some more wire for the heat bed and I will be about ready to do a test print!!!!

[gmay3]

I've had the hex hot end fan pulling air from day one. It helps with ABS prints by reducing airflow pushing down on the print below the extruder.

This is good to know! I will be switching mine ASAP.

[printbus]

This is good to know! I will be switching mine ASAP.

Well, it is sort of a mixed bag. I noticed more airflow on the forward side of the heat bed with the fan reversed. On the few large ABS prints I've done, I added a piece of tape to the bottom of the fan, shaping it upwards a bit to help keep the draft off the bed.

[TopJimmyCooks]

printbus, by relocating your endstops your home position is in the front left of the bed. any downsides to this that you can think of? I would like to have the X and Y directions make more sense in pronterface, if there's no other downsides.

[printbus]

printbus, by relocating your endstops your home position is in the front left of the bed. any downsides to this that you can think of? I would like to have the X and Y directions make more sense in pronterface, if there's no other downsides.

Personally, I think the front left of the bed is the natural place for home. If there are issues with it, I don't know of them. Having home in the front left makes it easy to clean off the nozzle as it is heating, and to grab the pre-flush of extrusion that I do before starting to print. At the end of the print, I have my slicer end code lift the nozzle and then send the extruder to the right rear, getting it out of the way for print inspection and removal.

FOLLOWUP COMMENT: By moving the X-endstop to the left bottom side of the lower v-rail, it was also easier to achieve the full 100mm travel that the 8-inch printer is supposed to have. As a smaller benefit, the wiring is a bit more logical. Z enstop switch wires are bundled with the Z-motor wires, X endstop switch wires are bundled with the X-motor wires, and Y-endstop switch wires are bundled with the Y-motor wires. My engineering background suggested the co-bundling of motor wires and endstop wires could lead to crosstalk from the high current motor spikes causing incorrect endstop readings, but no problem with this has been observed.

FOLLOWUP COMMENT #2: When changing the home position to the front left corner, those using a fixed spacer on one corner of the heat bed may want to move it to the front left corner of the heat bed so it stays with the home position. In my printer, I ditched the fixed spacer and have all four corners adjustable.

[AbuMaia]

I, too, have my X endstop on the bottom left of the bottom rail, and my Y endstop moved back near the Y motor, putting my Home position left-front. I like this better, as prints now come out facing forwards, instead of towards the wall. The only downside I can think of is the Y endstop is now just a tiny bit harder to get at to adjust, but you likely won't be adjusting it much once it's set.

[usarmyaircav]

So I found out that my z axis is ok, it was just stuck. I need to get some oil. 2 questions.
1. How do I adjust the z end stop far enough down with the couplers being in the way. It looks like I have about an inch down from the hot end to the bed. I do need to do the initial bed leveling yet.
The end stops seem to be testing ok, but doing the m119 command, is shows the X max and y max as triggered, yet the mins work fine?

[printbus]

So I found out that my z axis is ok, it was just stuck. I need to get some oil. 2 questions.
1. How do I adjust the z end stop far enough down with the couplers being in the way. It looks like I have about an inch down from the hot end to the bed. I do need to do the initial bed leveling yet.
The end stops seem to be testing ok, but doing the m119 command, is shows the X max and y max as triggered, yet the mins work fine?

1. I mention in my Z MOTOR post that a ball end driver helps with the Z endstop bolt if you are using the large couplers. You'll soon be realizing how crude the i3v approach to the Z endstop is - it is very tough to adjust it with any repeatability or accuracy. The large coupler being in the way just aggravates this. Luck will be an important part of getting a good adjustment. Before I could print a new mount for the Z endstop, I swapped the fixed spacer on the bed with another spring so I can just adjust all four corners.

2. At the home position I show the mins as triggered and the maxs as open with M119. Away from home, all show open. Are you sure you have the endstop connectors on the right places on the RAMPS board? There are -Z, -Y, and -X labels next to three rows of pins on RAMPS. Your connectors should be on those rows of pins.

[usarmyaircav]

1. I mention in my Z MOTOR post that a ball end driver helps with the Z endstop bolt if you are using the large couplers. You'll soon be realizing how crude the i3v approach to the Z endstop is - it is very tough to adjust it with any repeatability or accuracy. The large coupler being in the way just aggravates this. Luck will be an important part of getting a good adjustment. Before I could print a new mount for the Z endstop, I swapped the fixed spacer on the bed with another spring so I can just adjust all four corners.

2. At the home position I show the mins as triggered and the maxs as open with M119. Away from home, all show open. Are you sure you have the endstop connectors on the right places on the RAMPS board? There are -Z, -Y, and -X labels next to three rows of pins on RAMPS. Your connectors should be on those rows of pins.

Hi Printbus, I totally forgot about your comment about needing the ball driver, I will pick one of those up tonight. do you think having 4 springs is better than 3 and a spacer? As to the end stops, I put them where Colin said to without really looking at the board itself. could my less than stellar sodering jobs be related?