Prusa i3v on the way!

[cjalas]

Just bought in to the Prusa i3v as recommended by a few forum goers, the overall price, and colin's amazing, blazingly fast customer support for my q&a's.
I've been trying to read up all I can about any build issues, tweaks, etc... however there are a few things that maybe some of you can assist me with (first time 3d printer buyer):

1. I've read that it would be beneficial to get couplings for this printer, but no mention of what kind / where to buy?

2. What kind of lubricant should I get, and should I get different kinds (for the rails and other?)

3. I really would like to build myself an enclosure for this, since I have a lot of draft and it will be in my room where I sleep (no toxic ABS fumes, please!). Does anyone have pics of successful enclosure builds for this printer? My thought was to mount it on a wood base, and build a box around it. Is there a better way? Preferrably I would like to make it look as part of the printer, and not just "in a box" sort of enclosure...

4. Heat bed: Aluminum yay or nay? I've read many places that an aluminum plate has helped for heat transfer and distribution. Also, how does the wood platform hold up to temp from the heat plate? Should I consider investing in aluminum Y-axis platform?

5. Extruders: Should I look into getting an aluminum version of Greg's Extruder (or other?) Also has anyone successfully done dual extruder heads on this? Also where can I find that tape I so often see on the hot end on many 3d Printers (I'm assuming it's some sort of heat protection/burn protection?)

Thanks everyone! I plan to paint my black. Any tips on that as well? Pics once I'm all setup!

[printbus]

Just got my i3v today! And now I'm about to leave town for all of next week. Grrr. Responding where I can...

1. The couplers need to join 5mm shafts on the stepper motors to the 5mm threaded rods. I bought couplers from MakerFarm with the printer - maybe they can still add some to your order. I've read of people with issues getting a good set-screw grip on the threaded rods. I'm going to try filing a bit of a flat on one side of the threaded rods, and also wrap wire in the threads of the rods as required to improve the fit in the couplers.

4. How good the wood platform holds up probably depends how good of an insulator you have between the wood and the heat plate. Colin uses cardboard in his assembly video. Some Prusas have used cork, like that from square tiles. I bought a Norpro 8" x 8" square silicone pot-holder/trivet off eBay to try, although it's a bit thick and I might have to increase the spacing between the heat plate and the wood platform a small amount to use it.

5. The i3v kit comes with a roll of 5mm wide kapton tape.

I'm going to paint mine as well. Another build thread recommended spray painting the wood sheets before they are broken down. I'm taking a bit of different tack and gluing much of mine together first, removing the fasteners and painting, then reinstalling the fasteners and completing the assembly. Of course this will take me more time and I'm not following the build videos 100% to do this. I figure this should give me a pretty solid machine. Along with time spent dressing up the wiring, it should also look pretty good.

EDIT: Added response to #5. Also, let me clarify my painting approach. I'm initially only assembling the wood pieces that are basically attached permanently - pieces without adjustments and with little reason the parts will have to come apart again. Joints between those pieces of wood get glued. I'll then prep and paint all the wood, and then go back through the assembly process to install the rest of the components. This will require some assembly procedures that differ from what Colin does in the videos. The two areas that are not getting glued up front include the LCD holder and the spool holder. The LCD card can't be installed if the LCD holder is fixed to the frame, and I'm not sure I like the spool holder and may not even use it.

[old man emu]

2. Lubricant: I suggest a spray-on silicone type of lubricant. As long as the lubricant dries so it is not sticky, it should be OK. Going against this suggestion, I dabbed some wheel bearing grease on the extruder gears, just to make sure that they stayed lubricated. I've had no problems.

4. Aluminium Heat bed. Nah - the heated bed actually stands off the wooden Y-axis platform, so getting an aluminium one is a waste of time and money. The cork tile stuck to the underside of the heated bed is the way to go. I also put some aluminium kitchen foil beterrn the upper side of the heated bed and the print glass. The other trick is to install a 5Amp auto horn relay between the power supply and the heated bed. The switching circuit for the relay is the D8 connection on the RAMPS board.

5 Extruder: The ABS printed extruder works well. Don't forget to fit a small fan to blow on the extruder. One of the first prints you should do is to print out the components of the Greg's Extruder, just in case.

Painting: Colour is your own choice. I suggest using a can of spray paint, and painting things before assembly. That way you don't get overspray on rods and motors. Painting before assembly will only increase your build time by an hour or so. If you are smart, you will spray everything just before you go to bed, and then things will be ready to go when you wake up.

Tape: The tape is called Kapon Tape. It is used on the hot end just to keep the thermistor in its hole. The hot end will still burn you, so DON'T TOUCH!

Old Man Emu

[1stage]

Agreed with the cork recommendation from OME.

I too bought the 5mm-5mm couplers, and the threaded shaft was too small. I cut a strip of aluminum foil and coiled it around the base of the threaded rod until it created enough of a compression joint to work well. No problems. Pic to follow.

[1stage]

Here's a pic of the aluminum foil wrap on the 5mm-5mm coupler.

5mm-5mm Coupler.jpg

[eghm]

So jealous, mine shipped May 8th, is still in route.

[gmay3]

cjalas, I'll put some amazon links for the items you were asking about that I ordered for my printer:

1. Rod couplers - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I haven't installed these yet but i think they will fit.

2. Lubricant - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I like this lubricant because it's CHEAP and its a little thicker so it won't run down your rods and make a huge mess. I cut a C shape in the end to allow more smooth application to the threaded rods. This is the only part that needs lubrication. You can put a few drops on your ABS extruder gears, I've had good results from doing this.

3. I started a thread about building an enclosure for the i3V - http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...-i3v-Enclosure

4. No I don't think this is necessary, I insulated my heat bed with a single layer of this cork sheet - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5. Depending on how much it would cost, it would be pretty cool to have aluminum versions of gregs extruder. I would say hold off on it for now because you never know if you want to switch to a different extruder system such as the bowden extruder. If you do decide to get an aluminum version you might want to post on here first because often times at machine shops, if you get a higher quantity you may save some money per unit and others may be interested in jumping in on an order. I know I might!

I would also recommend using loctite blue when assembling your printer to make sure things don't rattle loose over time. Just use it on structural parts you wont have to tweak or adjust later. Don't use it on the adjustable delrin idler or heat bed adjustment screws.

Enjoy the build and take your time!
gmay3

[old man emu]

Here is a picture of the couplers I used:

Connector on Stepper Shaft.jpg

These ones have four screws. If you look at the coupler on the motor you can see two screws which squeeze the coupler tight. On the unfitted coupler you can see two grub screws which lock the coupler to the shaft and rod individually. These couplers don't move on the shafts.

OME

[printbus]

...I would also recommend using loctite blue when assembling your printer to make sure things don't rattle loose over time. Just use it on structural parts you wont have to tweak or adjust later. Don't use it on the adjustable delrin idler or heat bed adjustment screws.

Definitely. I've been surprised that use of a threadlocker isn't mentioned more often. To clarify, you don't need threadlocker on any screws with the nylon locknuts. You also don't WANT it on those since nearly all threadlocker compounds degrade many types of plastic. To be safe, don't use it on the nyloc nuts and keep it off the roller wheels and anything else plastic.

EDIT: It should be obvious, but keep the threadlocker out of the bearings, too!

[gmay3]

Yes thank you for clarifying that! No need for loctite on the nylon lock nuts.