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  1. #51
    Quote Originally Posted by raylo32 View Post
    Not sure if you read my KnP startup up posts but if I were you I'd check that the extruder nozzles are level before you load filament. Mine weren't even close. I have adjusted the left one down so they both print but may go back and try to get them even closer to equal. Mine are close enough now that I am judging "equal" mostly based on friction on a leveling paper. One approach that might work is to loosen both completely so there is no stiction then turn the table lead screw to run the table up so they both rest on it... then tighten the set screws. Or you might be lucky and get a unit that was properly calibrated.
    And hope the table is properly leveled...

  2. #52
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    I wouldn't count on that. Leveling the table is simple, tho.

  3. #53
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    For those of you with the KnP I have designed a simple accessory to better secure the filament spools, available at the link below. I am also working on a z-axis shim for use with a glass build plate. I just need to test print and maybe tweak a few dimensions. I'll post it up here when I am done.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2559323

  4. #54
    Quote Originally Posted by raylo32 View Post
    For those of you with the KnP I have designed a simple accessory to better secure the filament spools, available at the link below. I am also working on a z-axis shim for use with a glass build plate. I just need to test print and maybe tweak a few dimensions. I'll post it up here when I am done.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2559323
    Glass is better?

  5. #55
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    It is for me. There are lots of ways to go... painters tape/w glue stick for PLA, painters tape with ABS juice for ABS. I use glass table with hair spray for everything and seems to work best and easiest for me. Very repeatable and you get a nice smooth finish on the bottom. Others use Printbite or other manufactured product which I haven't tried myself yet. If this is your first printer you will need to see what works best for you.

    Quote Originally Posted by NCFatBoy View Post
    Glass is better?

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by raylo32 View Post
    It is for me. There are lots of ways to go... painters tape/w glue stick for PLA, ...
    Just to jump in here, I find the green Frog tape ( different kind of painters tape ) sticks to the glass better than blue, and I dont seem to need glue ( for PLA) When I used blue painters tape (3m brand) the model will pull up the tape as I try to remove the model.
    Just my experience... and 2 cents worth.

  7. #57
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    That's funny I was using Frog Tape, too, since that's what I had around, just stuck to the OEM printer table. Now with glass and aquanet I don't use tape at all anymore.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjf55 View Post
    Just to jump in here, I find the green Frog tape ( different kind of painters tape ) sticks to the glass better than blue, and I dont seem to need glue ( for PLA) When I used blue painters tape (3m brand) the model will pull up the tape as I try to remove the model.
    Just my experience... and 2 cents worth.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by raylo32 View Post
    That's funny I was using Frog Tape, too, since that's what I had around, just stuck to the OEM printer table. Now with glass and aquanet I don't use tape at all anymore.
    Double funny, I tried Aquanet and did not have a good experience. Put a funny film on the part also didn't stick all that well. Maybe (probably) I didn't apply it correctly. So I went back to Frog tape.

  9. #59
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    Meant to add what is your Aquanet application method, how much, how often, how do you know enough is enough. Sorry to take this thread in a slight detour.

  10. #60
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    I've done it a couple of ways. I watched a youtube video and this guy said to spray a few heavy layers on and let it dry. That worked well, but I have fastened my glass to the bed and don't really want to be spraying inside the machine. So I came up with an alternate method to just spray a paper towel good and wet and apply by wiping to a preheated bed, like 60 degrees. Spray, wipe and repeat a couple of times. It dries pretty much instantly and you are ready to go. It seems to work well with most materials but best with ABS. When the bed cools the ABS part is totally unstuck. Amazing. PLA seems to stay stuck a bit even when it cools so sometimes takes some work to release.

    Edit: I don't really know how often to refresh the Aquanet or clean and reapply since I am pretty much printing on my original application after a couple dozen models.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjf55 View Post
    Meant to add what is your Aquanet application method, how much, how often, how do you know enough is enough. Sorry to take this thread in a slight detour.
    Last edited by raylo32; 10-01-2017 at 06:18 PM.

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