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  1. #491
    I doubt changing the heat manager will make it heat up faster, but won't hurt to try it.

    Not sure where you messed up. The plate hanging over the edge of the frame won't hurt anything. But, making your corner pieces so the edge of the horizontal strut lines up with the edge of the vertical will give you more room in the middle for your idler pulleys for the belts.

  2. #492
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
    Calculation wise I just scaled up from alexa. 1.7 something I think it was.
    Would have been better making a cardboard mockup first. Or finding out if there was a standard calculation already online somewhere.
    Well we live and learn :-)

    given how much cornerpiece there now is, plenty space for the belts.
    Hell, all it needs is a crosspeice and a hole - the crosspiece will further reinforce the corners as well. Can get them pretty close to the uprights without any problems.
    Need to do the carriages first, I think.

    Bought some 10 kg filament a few weeks back, that was supposed to ship from the uk. No sign of it, so presumably it's on the slow boat from china. A lot of amazon suppliers lie through their teeth about stuff like that ;-)
    Shame as I'm running out of flashforge filament. Mind you, plenty of other stuff lying around.

    Sliced the larger corner for the flashforge last night: 60mm/s - reckoned 6hours 54mins. Given that alexa knocks them out at 1 hour 48, didn't bother doing one on geraldine lol



    So that's the right size.
    Now need to move the upright sockets inwards and reshape the cornerpieces.

    I'm getting there, slowly :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 09-10-2017 at 09:52 AM.

  3. #493
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
    So I ended up with this:

    Somehow the non-rounded corners make it look more industrial - or maybe that's just me :-)

    Anyway it will keep the sturts the right distance, while having the upright a lot nearer the horizontals (see, I do listen ;-)
    It's also 40gms lighter, hour 23 print time. I also made the upright socket a half mm larger in both directions. Primarily because it's cold and wet out there and I can't be arsed to go all the way down the garden to get the rubber mallet out of my shed :-)
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    Last edited by curious aardvark; 09-10-2017 at 11:21 AM.

  4. #494
    Amazon had some $10 per kilo of PLA and ABS this week. Didn't see it in time to grab some colorful stuff, but black and white was still available. I had never heard of the brand, so only bought two PLAs and one ABS. Showed up today.

    Don't forget the pulley holders on your corner pieces and that last design looks better. Are you going with only one set of horizontals on the top and bottom? I know you mentioned one part of the way down.

  5. #495
    I'd have to measure to make sure, but I think there is about 2 inches between my 16" glass plate and the belts. Maybe a hair more.

  6. #496
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
    given the sheer heavidutiness (yeah it's a word) of the 30x30 struts and corner pieces and the fact that I'll have reinforcing bars about 2/3 of the way up (also necessary for the control panel if the printer is on a desk) and an aluminium plate on the base. Also the commercial units will have a top aluminium plate as well. The BB will have a plywood top, so I can move stuff around easily.
    Definitely only need one set of horizontals.
    Don't forget, all the gear: steppers, psu, motherboard, will be top mounted.
    Probably go for a side mounted filament holder, you won't want to stand on a chair to do it.
    The only thing going at the bottom is the heated bed, which will be manually adjustable. After the recent threads - going to avoid topographical mapping completely. It's definitely not necessary as long as you have an adjustable bed.

    Until I get the cupped magnets and wheels and pulleys - don't know how big the carriages will be - so won't finish the corner pieces with the pulley until I get those.

    It does mean I'll need to print an extra set of corner pieces - but at 480 grams a set - I can live with that.
    Finally found some decent priced wheels last night. Sets of 9 - so bought 2 - came in at 6.80 - so about 38p a wheel (under 50 cents).
    White with bearings.
    Haven't decided on final colour scheme yet - but probably go with white pla as it contrasts well with the silver aluminium. Plus it's really hard to see the print lines of white pla :-)
    Or I might go with black - or red.

    I don't really do colours lol

    Currently contemplating whether to buy a set of metal nema 17 brackets or print plastic cages.
    Probably go for the metal, for longevity. Plus they aren't exactly expensive.

    Cost is currently at 270 and I think, just the printbite (and motor brackets) to go. Though I am also thinking about a volcano hot end with gears.
    But should still come in under the 350 mark and that's with upgrading almost everything compared to the k200.

    I'll get the frame up this week and cut the top board and maybe get the aluminium cut as well.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 09-11-2017 at 08:10 AM.

  7. #497
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
    So I can actually fit 2 of the new cornerpieces on alexa at one print - 3 hours at 150mm/s.
    And one on the flashforge at 3 and a half hours at 65mm/s.
    Looks like the 0.5mm nozzle also helps a bit too :-)

    Got them down to 67gms.

  8. #498
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
    So here's the thing.
    Printing stuff at speed with a fairly large bead - in this case 150mm/s at 0.3mm leyer height and a 0.5mm nozzle - is almost entirely down to how good your filament is and possibly what colour it is.
    Must have wasted a couple of hours trying to get yusu black filament to do this.
    Not a hope in hell. It's thick ad blobby and clearly only for use i fairly slow prints.

    The mystery roll of red pla I bought a while back and was supposed to be sunlu - but clearly isn't, is now cranking it out with no problems.
    Also ordered more flashforge as it's gone down to 12 and next day free delivery with my amazon prime.
    The red flashforge is easily the best pla I've used since the original wood coloured reprapper-tech stuff stopped being made.
    So threw in a roll of flashforge white and black as well.

    Now the more I use different filaments, the more I believe it's actually a lot more to do with colourant, than it is with manufacturer,
    For example Green filaflex and ninjaflex, prints easily on my replicator clones. But red tpu just won't print at all.
    Alexa will print any of them. Which is counter indicative as she's a bowden.

    Thinking there is something in the red colourant that lets filament flow better and keeps it that little bit more flexible.
    But as no manufactuer currently lists pla ingredients - it's just a theory based on the last 3 1/2 filament usage.

    And anyone who still believes pla is brittle needs to take a 30x30mm aluminium strut, wedge it into a pla corner and bang it up and down - hard - on a concrete floor.
    I also threw one of the old corners up i the air and let it crash down on the floor - still concrete - it bounced, of course it did :-)

    Got a little warp on the flashforge corner - forgot It was set up for printing really small things (strutnuts) and it needs a bit more smoosh for larger items.
    Might work - we'll see.

  9. #499
    Even though you might not be able to get it to work, I'd still include some sort of leveling sensor when you sell it.

    Just measured and the belts are closer than I thought to the build plate. 1.5".

  10. #500
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
    You still need the probe to manual level.

    This mystery filament not as good as the flashforge.
    dropping speed to 120 for next two pieces. :-(
    lol still twice as quick as the flashforge. Plus I don't think I've ever had anything warp, even a little bit on alexa.

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