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  1. #391
    I hope you try this out on Alexa to make sure it works. I'd hate to wait forever to find out.

    You need Arduino to flash the above Repetier files. Get it downloaded and installed. You'll also need the FTDI drivers for the board.

    Once you have all of that, open Arduino, Click on Tools -->Board -->Arduino Mega 2560. Click on Tools-->Serial Port-->(select your COM port for the X3 USB, you can check this in Device manager). Then click on File -->Open and find the Repetier file in the above .zip file. Click on the check mark in the top left corner under the "File" tab. If everything checks out, might have a low memory message, don't worry, click on the right arrow button next to the check mark. I probably wouldn't have the TFT hooked up during this.

    Now swap that shit out on Alexa. Seriously. Need to make sure it works with what you know works and not trying to diagnose a whole new printer where anything could be the problem. If you know the motherboard works now, then anything in the future will not be motherboard related.

  2. #392
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Definitely not messing about with Alexa. Learnt many years ago that once a thing works - stop messing with it.

    Wasn't uncommon on the old days for me to fix a computer and just do one last thing - which buggered it up.
    So now if what i have works the way I want it to and does what it should. Leave it well alone.
    One reason I absolutely will not let microsoft dump whatever crap they like on my computers.

    Might clone the harddrive and do all the stupid updates at some point to see if I can get s3d 4.0 working.
    No joy so far.

    I'll mess with the new board. As if that gets totally buggered up - it's no big deal. Just 25 up the swanney, rather than a dead printer.
    If Alexa gets messed up - I'll cry !
    lol

    I'm curious to see what differences there are in the display and control options with different firmwares. And I know this board is compatible with marlin, repetier and smoothieware. You have all three options in the configuration file.
    Saw something yesterday that recommends swapping marlin - apparently old version - the board comes with for the latest smoothieware.
    So sometime over the weekend I'll give that a go.
    I know it's the screen that does the continue print after power failure. So no matter what I'll keep that.

    What I don't know - is which socket I plug the z probe into for auto calibration.
    Going to have three spare endstop sockets as I've got two for each motor. Can't see anything else that I could use. So probably the z- one I'm thinking. The top of the machine is z + (I think).
    That's easy to test with repetier host anyway. Hold the swith in send the command. Tells you if it's found it.

  3. #393
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Psu just arrived.
    Sucker is rated for 50 amps and 600 watts !
    Big cooling fan.
    Other than that, identical type to the he3ed one.
    15 delivered :-)
    Plenty of mounting holes too.
    inline switch not getting here till monday most likely. So until I can make the switchable power cable. I'll leave it alone :-)
    Uk based supplier - so actually send backable of it dies.
    Feels really solid.

    Looks like it could easily power a 400mm heatpad too, hmm. lol
    So if anyones looking to buy a psu for a 3d printer build - look at led lighting psu's NOT 3d printer psu's. Same thing but much better prices and specifications :-)

  4. #394
    I think I have had the motherboard in/out probably 10 times now. Takes about 5 minutes to pull and put back. I pulled it the other day just to check if the laser cutter would cut through the thick baseplate. If you work on computers, then it should be a cake walk. Maybe it is because it has a few screws for the VIN and bed heater that makes it different than a computer that scares you? Not just plug and play. I have all of the endstop and motor plugs marked so I don't have to trace the wires back. That way I know which plug goes where.

    I did figure out how to turn on the LED plug through the firmware yesterday. I have some 36 LED pads with two sided tape on them that are going on today.

  5. #395
    I may be wrong but Smoothieware is only for 32-bit ARM CPUs and that mobo has only MEGA2560... would need either Smoothieboard or Re-ARM for RAMPS (and the RAMPS board of course). Repetier on the other hand should work fine. I've been meaning to try Repetier firmware for a long time, but there's always something else on to-do my list . Also Marlin does work well, with auto bed leveling etc. so there's not much reason to switch, only curiosity...

  6. #396
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Ah good point - (checks) it's the screen that has the 32bit arm chip. Knew I'd seen one somewhere :-)
    That little screen is way more powerful than the actual motherboard.
    Okay, for the time being then I'll leave it with what it has.
    Pretty sure It is ramps compatible - it's a combined ramps and mega blend. At least that's what it says somewhere, I think lol
    What do i care, as long as it works.

    lol
    my issue with dismantling alexa is 2 fold (and what did the romans ever do for us....).
    1) it's completely unnecessary.
    2) I have to unplug her and move her to the other workbench, just no room to maneouber on the 3d printer table and it's not necessary.
    3) I'll have all the bits to build the Big bastard in a few weeks anyway, so what's the rush ? Still got to design all the plastic parts, make the ball bearing shafts etc. Trust me I've got enough to do.
    I've also decided to make a mini-itx case as my previous mini-itx computer is now in canada on my sisters desk nd alexa can print large enough to make it in a base and lid :-) And I need a basic work machine for the other work bench. Also going to make a 3d printer board and screen mount for messing about with them.
    Also need to upgrade the 64gb ssd on this machine to a 128 as I'm running out of space and I'm about to start buggering about with autocad, which gives me a 64 for the new machine.
    In between that: life, work, sleep, food, dog walking - I'm good :-)

    Oh yeah:

    4) Do Not Mess With That Which Already Works !
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 08-11-2017 at 11:41 AM.

  7. #397
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Just bought wifi module, seemed a shame not to. Plus the big printer won't be anywhere near a computer. 12.99
    Seemed like a good idea :-)

  8. #398
    What will the wifi let you do? Save the file to the SD card on the TFT or just print over wifi like it was hooked up with USB?

  9. #399
    The last piece of the puzzle and the tracking number finally started working. Hopefully today?


  10. #400
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    They look like good magnets.

    Hot end arrived this morning. All the way from malaysia.
    Good bit of kit - the actual hot part is all metal.
    But I really need to start looking at pictures and youtube videos before I buy such expensive things (lol). No mounting hole. Needs a sort of neck clamp which I'll need to build into the effector.
    Other than that for 6.58 - Looks good.
    The heater block is identical to the he3d - just the heatbreak which is different, looks a bit more efficient too. Nozzles are interchangeable.

    As far as I know on a brief perusal - the wifi module allows you to upload files directly to the sdcard and start printing from the sdcard.
    Not sure if it lets you remotely monitor the ongoing print or not.
    If it doesn't at the moment - then future firmware updates for the screen will most likely let you.
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3D-printer...QAAOSwAuNW2qq~

    I'm sure s3d has a network printer option somewhere. Vaguely remember finding it a while back.

    The printbite is going to easily be the most expensive part - around 60 delivered. However it does look like i can add my own custom graphic to it. Which ameliorates the cost a little.
    That's probably going to push me over 300 and nearer 350. Although currently only on 164 - still a fair few bits to buy.
    c'est la vie.
    The interesting thing is, that although I'm doing this as cheaply as I can - it's going to be a really serious bit of kit.
    The 'bells and whistles' seem to be standard on even cheap kit these days.

    Oh yeah the super mini bb marble run. Does not work. The screw just won't lift the balls.
    Shame as it'd be a cool cheap print to sell.

    Might load the screw into openscad and resize it properly. It prints with gaps and they trap the bb's and stop it turning.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 08-12-2017 at 12:30 PM.

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