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  1. #211
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Ah good point - (checks) it's the screen that has the 32bit arm chip. Knew I'd seen one somewhere :-)
    That little screen is way more powerful than the actual motherboard.
    Okay, for the time being then I'll leave it with what it has.
    Pretty sure It is ramps compatible - it's a combined ramps and mega blend. At least that's what it says somewhere, I think lol
    What do i care, as long as it works.

    lol
    my issue with dismantling alexa is 2 fold (and what did the romans ever do for us....).
    1) it's completely unnecessary.
    2) I have to unplug her and move her to the other workbench, just no room to maneouber on the 3d printer table and it's not necessary.
    3) I'll have all the bits to build the Big bastard in a few weeks anyway, so what's the rush ? Still got to design all the plastic parts, make the ball bearing shafts etc. Trust me I've got enough to do.
    I've also decided to make a mini-itx case as my previous mini-itx computer is now in canada on my sisters desk nd alexa can print large enough to make it in a base and lid :-) And I need a basic work machine for the other work bench. Also going to make a 3d printer board and screen mount for messing about with them.
    Also need to upgrade the 64gb ssd on this machine to a 128 as I'm running out of space and I'm about to start buggering about with autocad, which gives me a 64 for the new machine.
    In between that: life, work, sleep, food, dog walking - I'm good :-)

    Oh yeah:

    4) Do Not Mess With That Which Already Works !
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 08-11-2017 at 12:41 PM.

  2. #212
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Just bought wifi module, seemed a shame not to. Plus the big printer won't be anywhere near a computer. 12.99
    Seemed like a good idea :-)

  3. #213
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    They look like good magnets.

    Hot end arrived this morning. All the way from malaysia.
    Good bit of kit - the actual hot part is all metal.
    But I really need to start looking at pictures and youtube videos before I buy such expensive things (lol). No mounting hole. Needs a sort of neck clamp which I'll need to build into the effector.
    Other than that for 6.58 - Looks good.
    The heater block is identical to the he3d - just the heatbreak which is different, looks a bit more efficient too. Nozzles are interchangeable.

    As far as I know on a brief perusal - the wifi module allows you to upload files directly to the sdcard and start printing from the sdcard.
    Not sure if it lets you remotely monitor the ongoing print or not.
    If it doesn't at the moment - then future firmware updates for the screen will most likely let you.
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3D-printer...QAAOSwAuNW2qq~

    I'm sure s3d has a network printer option somewhere. Vaguely remember finding it a while back.

    The printbite is going to easily be the most expensive part - around 60 delivered. However it does look like i can add my own custom graphic to it. Which ameliorates the cost a little.
    That's probably going to push me over 300 and nearer 350. Although currently only on 164 - still a fair few bits to buy.
    c'est la vie.
    The interesting thing is, that although I'm doing this as cheaply as I can - it's going to be a really serious bit of kit.
    The 'bells and whistles' seem to be standard on even cheap kit these days.

    Oh yeah the super mini bb marble run. Does not work. The screw just won't lift the balls.
    Shame as it'd be a cool cheap print to sell.

    Might load the screw into openscad and resize it properly. It prints with gaps and they trap the bb's and stop it turning.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 08-12-2017 at 01:30 PM.

  4. #214
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    it's about 2 inches by 2.5
    The run, and top bits are fine. But reducing the spiral that much in s3d makes the walls too thin.
    Needs to be reduced properly in a cad program I reckon
    Might have a go this afternoon.

  5. #215
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    IT has a specific 'neck' designed for a clamp. Not looked for existing clamps yet. Seen a few that (like autowhiz's) are basically a square clamp that bolts on to the effector/extruder holder. That would probably be the simplest way to go. That said with magnetically attached effector would be easy to change effectors for different extruder heads. A future project I think lol

    What is interesting is that the filament guide tube butts tightly into a socket right at the top of the heatbreak. And a removeable metal tube goes all the rest of the way down to the nozzle. So technically an, all metal hotend - can't see any gaps for filament to pool in. Haven't unscrewed nozzle yet though. But looks sound. The little clip on cooling fan for the heatbreak is very neat. Still can't believe how cheap these things actual are.
    Might hook it up to the board and check it heats up. Going to make my power cable today.

    Think it's still rated at 260c
    But I guess you could just upgrade the heatblock to change that.
    Also spotted some stainless steel nozzles - for that crappy carbon fibre infused filament.
    Might go for them anyway. Mind you also looking for larger diameter nozzles - up to 0.8 & 1mm would be good.
    Probably need upgraded cooling for them - but should be a large enough effector to use a couple of turbo fans.

    It's all starting to look wonderfully modular :-)

    So pics of your boxed delta are due I feel :-)

  6. #216
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Just bought some 50mm turbofans. 5 for three - seemed like a good idea :-)
    Might even be able to fit one on alexa, if I turn it sideways across the effector.

  7. #217
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    The he3d one ?
    nope, it too big, you can see how far it projects out from the effector. Thats going to catch on belts and rods.
    Like the side mounted filament holder - they don't seem to think it all the way through.

    Enclosed printer useful for lots of filaments apart from abs. Polycarbonate, nylons, polyamides etc
    many of which i have :-)

    So how long did it take to heat the box to 80c ?
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 08-16-2017 at 08:05 AM.

  8. #218
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Ahh fahrenheits.
    So not hot at all really.

    100f was based on mrs fahrenheits arm pit. :-)
    is it worth it for that low a temperature ?

  9. #219
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    In case anyone wants to convert an stl file to a dxf (autocad compatible file)
    here's what i just used: http://www.cadforum.cz/catalog_en/stl2dwg.asp

    Imported into autocad and it was all there. My knowlege of autocad is limited at best. But as far as I can tell this works perfectly :-)

    And a printing tip. If printing at low layer heights like 0.1 - 0.16 - double the height of the first layer.

  10. #220

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