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  1. #111
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Absolutely does not need to blow out a candle.
    Cooling on a 3d printer doesn't need to be particularly powerful. Just needs to be able to cool the filament a few degrees faster than it would normally.
    So no, won't blow out candles, won't blow down houses of straw or sticks.
    But it will cool down filament enough to significantly improve quality of prints. Which is actually, what it's for :-)

    Plus the filament on a delta cools down faster than on most other machines - the stuff I've been able to print without a fan has proved that.
    The extra cooling this adds does the job :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-10-2017 at 10:10 AM.

  2. #112
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    ah - don't think I've got any 4gb dimms in stock. never usually need more than 2gb on my workshop machines.
    Given that nothing else I've sliced has ever given me issues, it's more like to be a windows/memory issue - I only build machines with ssds, so virtual memory should be pretty quick.
    That said - cura sliced it without any issues.

    Tell you what though. Currently printing my first proper thing with the fan. A radiator pressure valvey thing for a plumber mate of mine. Doing in pet-g - the ones i did without the fan were pretty rough. The one it's printing at the moment looks bloody amazing !
    Mind you i took amaprof's advice as well and knocked 10c off the printing temp.

    I'll do one without an as well just to compare.
    But it's looking really really clean and sharp.
    I'll take a pic


    printing at 0.2mm layer. I mean come on how smooth is that ?
    The layer alignment on that column is bloody amazing.
    The larger carriage is probably helping as well.
    Cheers mate :-)

    This machine rocks !

    ***

    The surface finish on this thing is bloody phenomenal !
    I reckon Alexa is finally 100% finished :-)
    It's sun-lu pet-g at 230c. Which is the lowest end it says to use on the label.
    Accordig to amaprofessional, it actually bonds better at lower temps.
    We'll see. This thing is screwed directly into a radiator valve, so is subjected to some serious sideways twist and torque.
    The 245c ones were fine. Interesting to see how this one at 230 compares. Plus I've extended the bit that screws in.

    Right started the one without fan.
    (sticks finger on fan) yep definitely off.
    Be interesting this.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-10-2017 at 11:36 AM.

  3. #113
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    So does the fan make a difference ?

    Oh hell yeah !
    Guess which print is which. Only difference is one was printed with fan on and one with it off. All other settings were unchanged.






    The surface feel is even rougher on the non-fan one than it looks.


    The one with fan isn't quite as smooth as injection moulded - but damn it's close :-)
    With some light sanding - you'd be pushed to tell the difference.

    Think that proves my point on cooling fans quite nicely ;-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-10-2017 at 04:00 PM.

  4. #114
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Printed one at 0.3mm and 100mm/s - looks almost as good :-)

  5. #115
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    that looks like a quarter of something.
    What is it ?
    10 hours ?

    What settings are you using ?

  6. #116
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    lol I'm currently doing the first quarter of a viking helmet.
    I sneer at your palfry 67mm/s and reply with a 150mm/s , 0.3 3/3/3 and 15% infill :-)
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2135965

    Full size is 235mm diameter. Damn so have to print it in quarters.
    2 hours 37 minutes per quarter.
    Never seen a 3d printer run so fast.
    Got a reel of horrible chcolatey brown. Figure if the helmet works i can spray paint it silver anyway :-)

    And the reason i'm Printing a viking helmet is that I look like a viking :-)
    Great big ginger beard and all. People keep telling me I need a viking helmet.
    So why not :-)


    Oh yeah you're right about the weird 140x140 x and y settings.

    If you've had a failed print on this thing - you need to get some printbite :-)

    150mm/s - I'm grinning like a loon. It's like watching a time lapse video of a normal 3d printer in real time.

  7. #117
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    I'm pretty much just using s3d default retraction. 1.8mm - 60mm/s
    Not getting stringing - so it works.

  8. #118
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    lol mine is already on steroids :-)

    Even doing a 1/4 at a time my viking helmet would not fit in the flashforge.

    Right off to get some food.

    Much as I enjoy watching alexa at work - I need food :-)

  9. #119
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    I use teamviewer for all my remote control and support.
    Even runs on phones and tablets :-)
    www.teamviewer.com

  10. #120
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Currently starting part 2 of 4.
    First quarter looks pretty great.

    One thing to remember when printing fast - remember to slow the first layer down proportionally !
    Had few false starts with number 2. Dropped first layer from 10% to 5 (so 7.5mm/s) and it's looking perfect this time :-)
    And as we all know: getting the first layer right is 90% of getting the whole print right.



    How cool is that :-)
    Going to print a couple small ones to try out colour schemes on.
    I can knock a 1/4 size one out in 40 minutes.

    Still trying to decide on a colour scheme. I've got some white filler that i can use to give the horns the right colour and texture of actual horn/bone. Was thinking about spraying the bands and 'bolts' silver and leaving the rest the brown of the filament. Would look more like a reinforced leather helmet that way.

    Tested for size and should be plenty big enough for some interior padding - got masses of leather in my workshop,
    Given the huge overhang, almost 90 degrees at the top - the fan is doing a good job even at speed.
    Because I'm using the 16mm wide nozzle, it basically covers the whole print area.
    Might make one with two 'horns'.
    With the clip setup messing around with nozzle designs is a doddle :-)

    Sizewise, hadn't thought about making the heat bed larger. I can get aluminium discs for free gratis and nothing - cut to any size I like :-)

    And using the existing vertical struts for side pieces is a great idea.

    Main issue with that would be getting the carriage arms the right length.

    I think, if i bother, I'll get another k200 kit to play with.
    Now I've got alexa dialled in - particularly with the flexibles - I'm reluctant to stick a longer bowden tube on that might bugger that up.

    Need to make some money first anyway :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-12-2017 at 03:53 PM.

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