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  1. #191
    Started running some numbers to figure out the cost of supersizing. With the current dimensions, multiplying everything by 1.5 to get a 300mm bed, made the numbers really goofy, so I went with a 1.75 figure. Numbers are nice and round that way. Will end up with a 350mm bed.

    Fours sticks of 1.82 meter 2020 aluminum extrusions. This is if you are willing to cut the three verticals down to use as horizontals.
    10 meters of GT2 20 tooth belt.
    300mm 12v 270 watt bed heater.
    350 Watt, 12v PSU. Will power just the bed heater.
    SSR-25A. Switch used to turn on heater with power from separate PSU.
    1/4"/6mm Aluminum sheet for bed.
    Wiring to extend the original.
    Longer filament tubing.
    Diagonal Rods. Only thing I am not certain on.

    Around $250, not including the diagonal rods would get you there if you cut down and use the original verticals or add another $20 or so for another piece of aluminum extrusion.

    You could then use just a small 12v power supply to power the board and not have two large power supplies hanging off the machine.
    Last edited by number40Fan; 07-12-2017 at 10:52 AM.

  2. #192
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
    Currently starting part 2 of 4.
    First quarter looks pretty great.

    One thing to remember when printing fast - remember to slow the first layer down proportionally !
    Had few false starts with number 2. Dropped first layer from 10% to 5 (so 7.5mm/s) and it's looking perfect this time :-)
    And as we all know: getting the first layer right is 90% of getting the whole print right.

    How cool is that :-)
    Going to print a couple small ones to try out colour schemes on.
    I can knock a 1/4 size one out in 40 minutes.

    Still trying to decide on a colour scheme. I've got some white filler that i can use to give the horns the right colour and texture of actual horn/bone. Was thinking about spraying the bands and 'bolts' silver and leaving the rest the brown of the filament. Would look more like a reinforced leather helmet that way.

    Tested for size and should be plenty big enough for some interior padding - got masses of leather in my workshop,
    Given the huge overhang, almost 90 degrees at the top - the fan is doing a good job even at speed.
    Because I'm using the 16mm wide nozzle, it basically covers the whole print area.
    Might make one with two 'horns'.
    With the clip setup messing around with nozzle designs is a doddle :-)

    Sizewise, hadn't thought about making the heat bed larger. I can get aluminium discs for free gratis and nothing - cut to any size I like :-)

    And using the existing vertical struts for side pieces is a great idea.

    Main issue with that would be getting the carriage arms the right length.

    I think, if i bother, I'll get another k200 kit to play with.
    Now I've got alexa dialled in - particularly with the flexibles - I'm reluctant to stick a longer bowden tube on that might bugger that up.

    Need to make some money first anyway :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-12-2017 at 02:53 PM.

  3. #193
    That looks awesome, even in brown. And I think your ideas for paint would work great, too.

    I remember earlier in the thread, you were talking about someone you knew that dealt with aluminum. The extrusions and plate are about half the cost, so if you could score on those, you'd be set. I even think a PSU out of a computer would work for the 12v heating mat, and I bet you have one of those laying around. If it is large enough, say 450+, you could definitely get away with just using one PSU. I found an online calculator for delta printers that will give you a rough estimate on rod lengths. If they could be made adjustable, then dialing them in to length would be easy and one time cost.

  4. #194
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    pc psu's - got a few - even a mini-itx one from an itx case that's now on my sisters desk in canada :-)
    Cost me 50 to get her a 120volt one - same psu would have been 15 over here.
    Watching alexa print this overhang is pretty amazing.

    Oh yeah when I'm wearing the helmet this is pretty much exactly what I'll look like - though I'm more a quarterstaff and axe man than swords.

    Don't have the costume but I do have the big ginger beard :-)>

    Might have to paint my pla viking axe as well lol (it's what i use to knock prints off the printbite when i can't be arsed to let it cool down)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-12-2017 at 04:17 PM.

  5. #195
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    wow 6mm aluminium bed !
    why ? That's massive overkill, plus would take all damn day to heat up.
    3mm should be fine, 4 at a push, what am i missing ?

    Plus if I'm using a pc psu for the bed, why not use it for the board as well.
    Easy enough to use a 500watt.

    Also why 1.8m vertical struts ? Current struts are 680mm. so to extend print height to 600mm I would only need 980mm verticals - you'd use 1metre lengths, just to save messing about chopping little bits off. If you go any taller you'll need to switch to 3mm filament and life's too short to have to buy two different filament thicknesses.

    You're talking about a 1.5 metre build height. That wouldn't even fit in my workshop, unless I left it on the floor lol

    The struts I'd have to buy, but any plate would be free.
    These guys are clients of mine - and I like to keep the favour ratio in my favour :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-12-2017 at 04:55 PM.

  6. #196
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Thinking about it, pretty much the only thing you can't buy off the shelf or easily make are the corner pieces. I love the multi use design of those.

    But I guess it would be simple enough to design something much easier to print.

    Wonder what it would cost to do it completely from scratch.

    The arms are only aluminium rods in sockets. So might be able to get them free as well.

  7. #197
    At 1.75 you'd have 1190mm verticals. 1.82 meter 2020 is just what I found on Amazon. You cut three of them for one vertical and one horizontal and the forth will have the remaining horizontals. Cut the current verticals for the remaining three horizontals. The corners can be found on Thingiverse to print if you wanted too. You're either going to have to pay someone to cut the horizontals to length when you order or cut them yourself.

    350 watt heater pad would get the 6mm bed up there at a decent pace....I think.

  8. #198

    Three more pieces to go.
    Last edited by number40Fan; 07-12-2017 at 07:02 PM.

  9. #199
    Don't know what a chunk of printbite would cost you for the larger build, but I found a thread on another forum talking about polycarbonate or Lexan (here in the States). After sanding it down with water and 60 grit sand paper, you can stick ANYTHING to it without heat!!

  10. #200
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    lol yeah but can you get it off again ?

    That's the real beauty of printbite, not only does stuff stick to it - but it comes off without any hassle as well.
    And as I've had prints richochet around the room in the past - getting it to stick is not as important as being able to get it off afterwards.

    Getting struts cut to size - not a problem I've got a bandsaw, but in reality I'd just pop round to jsk and get them to do it :-)

    At the moment if I'm going to build from scratch I'll probably have a go at the inverted delta first.
    That looks like fun :-)

    Helmets looking good. Although at thye moment looks like a standard bmx helmet. Guess the last 3 bits make the difference.
    And the painting.

    Spotted need for another mod.
    The carriage wire bundle really needs to be held either up or out a lot more on larger prints.
    The second set of helmet quarters are the other way round, and i can see the cable catching it at later points in the print.

    The cable really needs to go almost straight up with a flexible rod to hold it away from any prints.
    At the same time you've only got a few cm if it's at the edge of the plate and near a strut or belt.
    Hmm, I'll have a think :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-13-2017 at 05:48 AM.

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