Heaven help me - I've just bought a delta kit :-)

[curious aardvark]

bloody hell that was quick work !
As far as the g29 business goes - it just made no sense. And when I entered the 'figures' nothing changed.

Plus with the heated bed I've got height adjuster bolts round the edge, so it wasn't a problem. I'm used to bed levelling by instinct :-)

As far as the cooling fan goes - mine doesn't 'need' it.
But it'll give sharper prints and better bridging.

My 0.4 nozzle was fine. I just like the idea of the 0.5 more :-)
Much speed and fastness of printing !!!
And the reason mine didn't extrude initially was because it needed a ptfe tube in the hotend.

That's a good idea using the limit stop instead of the pressure pad. I can think of a couple better ways to mount it :-) Should only need one small bolt, which I've got.
I'll wait to mess with that once I've done the cooling duct.
Great idea to use it for levelling though !
I ignore the math and just adjust the height bolts till I get the same result from all three points on g29. Bed levelled.

[curious aardvark]

well you set the middle point as z=0
Long as the bed's flat - you shouldn't need to measure it.

the fan bracket works quite well. currently working on a 2 part duct system.
First part screws into the fan with bog standard pc screws, and comes just below the carriage, the second part will glue to that and be the final nozzle. Just makes it easier to print.
currently test printing part 1.

I actually quite like the free filament.
Nearly used all the blue :-)

**

The slicing algorithms in s3d really need to be looked at.
rectangle. 10 mm wide, 50 long. Has to be roofed
Instead of the first layer of bridging going horizontally, which is an 8mm gap, it did it lengthwise a 50 mm gap - which obviously did not work.

I really need to have another look at cura.

[curious aardvark]

that's what they're for.
Figured it was a different type of socket.
I'll have to get a set - cheers :-)

[curious aardvark]

How do we keep this thing from splooging all over the center of the print when warming up the hot end?

I just pick the filament off.
it goes down fairly slowly so you can pull the string off just before it hits the centre.
I always use a 2 line outline as well.

The bed takes a few minutes to heat up. But the print speed more than makes up for that :-)
For some prints it's saving me hours over the flashforge creator.

Plus with the new printbite, I find that I only need 50c for pla and 60c for petg. The flexibles don't need the bed heated at all.

Ah ha - found a bridging setting that makes it a lot more sensible. Plus added a wall down the middle to help as well.

[curious aardvark]

just remember what you paid :-)
And the meaning of the word 'budget' ;-)

Like i said for me it's not an issue.

[curious aardvark]

just one zip tie, around a cooling fin, keeps the wires out of the way, and doesn't have a heat issue.

Ended up with similiar duct design to yours. But keeping the fan clip on top of the extruder carriage, that works a treat and once you've screwed the duct in place the whole thing is rigid while weighing about 4 grams.
You just need 2-4 screws holding the duct to the fan. And as I count spare computer screws by the lb, those i have :-)

Also going to have a seperate nozzle. That way i can play about with different designs without having to reprint an entire duct.

Actually, with your design you don't need the majority of that mounting plate.
If you just use the the two spare bolt holes, you can cut the mounting plate down by about 80% and still keep the same design. While not needeing to unbolt the extruder to change fans.
Hmm, now I'm thinking about doing that that instead lol
But you do still probably need to move the actual fan and cover onto the extruder platform.

Oh yeah, should you grab what looks like a mostly used roll of black pla off the shelf. Check it's not a sample of ninjatek's armadillo filament before printing a carriage with pla settings.
It almost worked too, but needed about another 30c printing temp I think :-)

[curious aardvark]

Yeah noticed with a test print that the springs will be an issue. Need to slide them all up a couple inches and lock them in place.

Well finally got simplify3d to bridge horizontally. Don't really understand why. But apparently it won't willingly bridge a perimeter wall unless part of that wall is considered infill.

So if you have a 1mm wall on a 55mm long by 7mm wide duct. You have to set it to 1 perimeter for it to know it can bridge the 7mm gap. If you have 3 perimeters, it prints the 1mm wall exactly the same - but tries to bridge the gap lengthways. Which do not work.
Logical ? Apparently to matheticians - which I am not.

Now i just need to get it to retract better to reduce stringing.
Although fan clips in nicely. And blocks the holes.
So, I'm going to use the first two hot end bolts. Don't think it' necessary to use all 4.
Once I've added that it's on to designing interchangeable nozzles.
And seeing if the pound shop has got the teeny tiny cable ties in stock yet.

I'm getting there lol

Okay this should be the final design. It's for a 30mm fan, uses the first 2 hot end bolts. Fan just fits over the columns and push fits good and tight. but can be removes fairly easily too.
So this basically doesn't use ANY extra screws or bolts at all :-)

fanductmk2-1.jpg

fanductmk2-2.jpg

[curious aardvark]

my retraction settings are 1.8mm and 60mm/s.
Retraction distance isn't as important as the speed and making sure the slicer actually does use retraction any time it crosses any open space. Also found that making it retract between layers also helps.

It's making sure s3d retracts every time it crosses open space that's the only issue. Should have that cracked with current print. Set minimum distance before retraction to 1mm. (yep I can hear the difference, way more 'zzzppp' retract noises).
If I print more than one object at a time there is absolutely no stringing between models.
High travel speed seems to help as well.
Although that's curently only set to 100mm/s.

Don't think that gap is an issue. Given how well she prints, I'm not going to mess with the arms :-)

[curious aardvark]

lost me - you saying there is a setting somewhere that you tell how wide the carriage is ?

Anyway, latest prototype. Needs a few adjustments and I'll probably print the final piece on the flashforge.
But on the whole, good solid fit, duct plus eventual nozzle will be 7-8gms.
Once i move the springs, it'll be clear of any potential collisions.

testduct-inplace1_444x480.jpg

testduct-inplace2_356x480.jpg

[curious aardvark]

what did you enlarge ?
I did meaure the widths.
So how did you adjust it ?