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  1. #1

    Hictop prusa i3 Z height issue after Firmware Flash due to Auto Level kit install

    Hellllooooooo Printer Geeks !

    I just installed the Auto Level Kit on my printer . Afterwards I used Cura to flash my 3DP08 to 3DP12 via the hex file provided to me by Hictop.

    My printer is http://www.hic3dprinter.com/products...&id=25&cid=001

    Now my Z axis height will no longer go all the way up and travels VERY slow . In the menu it shows it went up 200 but in actuality it only goes up about 3.5 inches max .
    This is ruining prints and I need this fixed asap as I am now having a backlog of prints.

    Can someone please help me?

    PS, I'm a moron when it comes to manual programming of any kind....hence using Cura to flash the hex update file and not using Arduino in any way like I see on other forums.

    Cheers!


    RIP Carrie Fisher
    Last edited by JIPSTERR; 12-30-2016 at 12:28 PM.

  2. #2
    I've been trying to upload the pics but it will not let me.
    They can be found at https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Ma...ment-269787926

  3. #3
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIPSTERR View Post
    I've been trying to upload the pics but it will not let me.
    They can be found at https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Ma...ment-269787926
    For future reference, you're likely trying to upload images that are too large. 3dprintboard won't accept any images that are larger than say 800x600 pixels. This is the most common reason why people can't upload images.

    BTW - I find the guidance at github that you could edit the flash hex file to change the default parameters laughable. You'd be far better off getting the Arduino environment up and running. It's only a matter of time before you'll likely have to cross that bridge anyway.

    You can also check/update the z-axis steps per unit and maximum feedrates using either the LCD (the images on github suggest you have one) or via gcode commands from your host software. One source of a sanity check for the steps per unit setting would be steps per millimeter portion of the Prusa calculator. Once you get new values figured out and tested, then you can work through storing them in EEPROM memory if your firmware allows it. Marlin is set up to use the values in EEPROM memory as over-rides to what is in the flash memory.

  4. #4
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    A handy g-code reference is on the reprap wiki at http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

    The following assumes your printer is running Marlin firmware.

    The key setting to check would be the parameter that is in the configuration.h file for the Z term in DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT. This is accessible from your host software by sending your printer an M92 command. It is also accessible via the LCD via CONTROL | MOTION | zsteps/mm. The correct value would depend on the nature of your hardware. Are those M8 threaded rods on your z-axis? If so, the correct value should be 2560 steps/mm per the Prusa calculator.
    Last edited by printbus; 12-31-2016 at 06:34 PM. Reason: corrected the label for the configuration.h term

  5. #5
    2560 steps/mm is indeed it. Unfortunately there's no on-board way of saving the setting. One other weird thing is that when i auto-homed it, Y shot hard and full front, X shot full right and then Z started crunching the bed down due to the sensor no longer being over the board. Don't wanna do that over again just to take a video of it happening. Yikes!!


  6. #6
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIPSTERR View Post
    2560 steps/mm is indeed it. Unfortunately there's no on-board way of saving the setting.


    Meaning the parameter was set to something other than that when you looked at it? If so, what was the value, and does it mathematically explain the shorter travel distance? If so, great. If you can't save the correct value to eeprom you can either set the printer up manually each time you start/reset it or have Cura include a M92 command at the start of each gcode file to set it. If that value was already set right, we next need to look at your z-axis speed/feedrate and make sure the printer isn't trying to move faster than it can. The likely result of that would be motor steps getting skipped, possibly resulting in slow movement and short travel distance.

    One other weird thing is that when i auto-homed it, Y shot hard and full front, X shot full right and then Z started crunching the bed down due to the sensor no longer being over the board. Don't wanna do that over again just to take a video of it happening. Yikes!!
    Someone else would have to help with that. I have no experience with bed leveling schemes.

  7. #7
    zsteps/mm was set to 398. Once I manually spun the dial all the way to 2560 it worked. Went all the way up like it should and traveled at the correct speed.
    Last edited by JIPSTERR; 12-30-2016 at 11:24 PM.

  8. #8
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIPSTERR View Post
    zsteps/mm was set to 398. Once I manually spun the dial all the way to 2560 it worked. Went all the way up like and traveled at the correct speed.
    OK, great. Unfortunately I'd want to question what else may be *wrong* in that hex file you flashed, but maybe that's just me.

    Hopefully someone else can work you through the bed leveling aspect. If I'm not mistaken, you need to run the G29 bed leveling command before you attempt to do a home. I also believe there's a z offset you can set in firmware that can allow you to get by not always running a G29 first. Until then, you might be stuck always having to do a G29 before a G28 or autohome from the LCD or Cura. But again let me emphasize - I have zero bed leveling expertise.

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