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  1. #11
    Engineer-in-Training gmay3's Avatar
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    OME, I was working putting the Z rods into the plastic tubing last night and I think it took a few years of life out of my hands haha. I think I will definitely be doing your rod coupler upgrade in the near future!

    I've got my printer assembled minus the RAMPS, heat bed, extruder, and hot end. I'm surprised how long its taking me to put together. Maybe I'm taking my time to carefully assemble it, or maybe I'm working a little slower than most but I think the 3+ hour build time on the makerfarm website is a little ambitious! But that's totally ok with me. I don't want the build to end because I'm having a great time.

  2. #12
    Just finished my build - everything went great apart from a few mistakes I made, nothing that couldnt be fixed fortunately. Printing the calibration cube now. Everything appears to be working just fine.

    Overall very impressed with this kit.

    IMG_20140409_163731.jpg

  3. #13
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    I'm going to Home Depot or Lowe's today to find a good material for the heat bed insulation, which is where I'm stalled.

    ~1/4" thick

    While I'd probably be fine with the cardboard that Colin used in the video, it's a little too sketchy for me.

  4. #14
    Super Moderator DrLuigi's Avatar
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    I do have to say that i dont realy like the look of the I3v, as the aluminium and wood realy don't go together,

    But if it works better and less noise i would also buy it to be honest,

    If theres a upgrade kit atleast,

    In my honest opinion, as i live in Europe i might not buy a makerfarm again as there are other solutions that are cheaper (and slightly better as stability goes) due shipping rates and custom fees.
    But i must say if you do live in America or somewhere more near, It is still a great buy, i hope you will enjoy it ^^

  5. #15
    Engineer-in-Training gmay3's Avatar
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    3dnoob, looks great!

    1stage, I also thought the cardboard was sketchy so I looked up what else could be used and the reprap wiki recommended using cork sheet as an insulation. I want to say the thickness I have is closer to 1/8" or maybe 2.5 mm. I haven't gotten to that stage yet but I'm hoping its works!

  6. #16
    Engineer-in-Training beerdart's Avatar
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    I do not use insulation just foil tape around the edges and the bed heats almost as fast as the nozzle and maintains heat real well.
    Quote Originally Posted by 1stage View Post
    I'm going to Home Depot or Lowe's today to find a good material for the heat bed insulation, which is where I'm stalled.

    ~1/4" thick

    While I'd probably be fine with the cardboard that Colin used in the video, it's a little too sketchy for me.

  7. #17
    For bed insulation I happened to have the perfect piece of kaowool left over from building a forge. The 1/2 inch stuff is pretty cheap. If you have a ceramic supply store nearby you may be able to pick it up locally.

    http://www.anvilfire.com/sales/pages/kaowool_index.htm

    Phil

  8. #18
    Well I have finished up the build and have printed the cube for testing. I am now printing the emergency replacement parts in case they break. I have been able to tune the steppers so that I hear the same type of noise that Collin has in the background of his videos. For noise suppression I put an 3/4" piece of white oak under it. That reduced the noise a lot.

    pict004-1.jpgpict006-1.jpg

    Again I think I got a great deal and a very usable machine for my investment.

    I have documented my build on the OpenBuilds forum.
    http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/bob...kit-build.651/


    Bob
    Last edited by bteeter; 04-09-2014 at 09:34 PM.

  9. #19
    Super Moderator DrLuigi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bteeter View Post
    Well I have finished up the build and have printed the cube for testing. I am now printing the emergency replacement parts in case they break. I have been able to tune the steppers so that I hear the same type of noise that Collin has in the background of his videos. For noise suppression I put an 3/4" piece of white oak under it. That reduced the noise a lot.

    pict004-1.jpgpict006-1.jpg

    Again I think I got a great deal and a very usable machine for my investment.

    I have documented my build on the OpenBuilds forum.
    http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/bob...kit-build.651/


    Bob
    I would realy use a multimeter, The pot meter is quiet precise, a minimal twist is quiet huge,
    0.2v can differ from Skipping or your motors running fine.

    After that well done ^^

  10. #20
    I started with a meter to get close then I ran each operation on X, Y, Z and extruder and adjusted for minimum current able to move the stepper. The results are the sounds of music just like Collin has in the background of his videos.

    Bob

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