First 3D Printer - Some questions unanswered after lengthy research

[uncle_bob]

Hi

In the AWG system, the lower the number, the bigger the wire. The wire on the heated bed is 12 gauge. Extending it with the same thing makes reasonable sense. Nothing else on the printer requires anything close to that fat a piece of wire. 18 AWG would be fine for the rest of it. You will also need a power cord for the gizmo. A used computer cord with one end cut off works fine. For the insulation on the bed, Nomex felt is a good choice.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are lots of other ways to go for that.

Bob

[printbus]

Doc - Another possible source for flexible wire would be a well equipped hobby store that covers model aircraft. They'll often sell silicone insulated wire by the foot or in packages containing a couple of feet of wire. It can be pricey compared to speaker wire, but what you're paying for is the flexibility obtained by having a silicone jacket and hundreds of wire strands rather than a couple dozen. I think #12 AWG silicone wire typically has something like 700 strands in it. Speaker wire, extension cord cable (which some have used), and any other form of common stranded wire won't come close to that.

For the y-bed application where the heater wires are under constant movement and flex, higher strand count wiring is worth considering. Long term, it will simply be less problematic. There are multiple "melt down" threads in the MakerFarm subforum that point this out.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Before we all turn you into a complete wire snob, very normal speaker wire:

https://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-RSW12...er+wire+100+ft

In the 50 foot spool for $11 will do just fine. You will have enough for a few dozen printers on that spool.

Bob

[Doc]

1) You will also need a power cord for the gizmo.

2) A used computer cord with one end cut off works fine.

Bob

Correct me if I'm wrong. 1) is to get the power supply running from the outlet; 2) is an alternative to the wire that will connect the printer to the power supply.

Concerning the wire, when I think of it, I'm probably going to just buy it from an electronics store in Europe. I mean it's still regular speaker wire, isn't it? It's only the gauge that I should take into consideration when I'm buying.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Yes, the power cord is *not* an alternative to the speaker wire. One is to hook the power supply to the wall. The other is to make a couple of connections between the power supply and the heated bed relay and RAMPS board. I found that a minor bit of wire in the 20 gauge range came in handy for hooking a few things up. A lot depends on just how you decide to locate the power supply and RAMPS. I mounted mine high because it makes it easier for me to work on. The "normal" location is a bit lower on the frame.

To repeat, there is absolutely nothing special about the wire at all. It's just generic copper wire that is available over the counter all over the world.

Bob

[Doc]

Another thing I'd like to ask.

The instructions mention insulation - more specifically, fire blanket or cork (something that can withstand temp of 120C). How do I combine this with the printer? I'm sure it's fairly obvious, but I can't seem to figure it out on the top of my head.

MakerFarm's website now offer "Single Titan Extruder with one e3d-v6 hot end." Is it made out of titanium, rather than metal or is ti just a name for the item? If it's just a name what advantages does it offer over the traditional metal "Single Extruder with one e3d-v6 hot end."

Doc

[curious aardvark]

titanium is metal. I'm guessing 'titan' is just the brand name.

[printbus]

The Titan appears to be a fairly new, geared extruder from e3d. Looks promising. No one has posted in the MakerFarm subforum about using it on a MakerFarm printer yet. Note that the "standard" extruder on Pegasus is a direct drive, without any gearing. Because of torque limitations from the extruder stepper motor without gearing, that limits you to 1.75mm filament.

The insulating material goes between the heat bed and the Y-bed plate that the heat bed sits on.

[curious aardvark]

for basic wiring I tend to use network cable.
A length of cat 5 or 6 (I use 6) cable contains 8 strands of plastic coated solid copper wire. For connections that don't have to flex much - it's excellent stuff.
It's also dirt cheap.

[uncle_bob]

Another thing I'd like to ask.

The instructions mention insulation - more specifically, fire blanket or cork (something that can withstand temp of 120C). How do I combine this with the printer? I'm sure it's fairly obvious, but I can't seem to figure it out on the top of my head.


Doc

Hi

I used the Nomex I mentioned earlier. The insulation goes between the heated bed pc board and the aluminum carriage that goes under it. It does not do a perfect job of stopping heat flow, but it is better than pumping air under the heater board each time the bed moves back and forth in the Y axis. You *might* get the bed up to 130C. Whatever you use should be "happy" with continuous exposure to that temperature. Nomex is good to > 400C so it's overkill. It's cheap enough that it was an easy decision.

Bob