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Thread: Warped Prints

  1. #11
    Engineer
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    Oct 2013
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    yes you really need to measure every roll of filament in a few spots and take an average. this value must really be changed with every roll. your slicer will use this to mathematically figure out how much plastic needs to be extruded. if you have it set to say 1.75 but you filament is actually 1.78 then your printer will be extruding more plastic than it thinks it is. you end up with parts that are out of tolerance or too much plastic being pushed around on each layer which can cause the nozzle to drag, hit your part or just sloppy top surfaces and walls. its very similar to just turning your extrusion multiplier way up or down.

  2. #12
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimc View Post
    yes you really need to measure every roll of filament in a few spots and take an average. this value must really be changed with every roll. your slicer will use this to mathematically figure out how much plastic needs to be extruded. if you have it set to say 1.75 but you filament is actually 1.78 then your printer will be extruding more plastic than it thinks it is. you end up with parts that are out of tolerance or too much plastic being pushed around on each layer which can cause the nozzle to drag, hit your part or just sloppy top surfaces and walls. its very similar to just turning your extrusion multiplier way up or down.
    I leave mine set at 1.8, after nearly 2 years of trial and error I find with this particular machine it's a pretty safe bet. I also live in a humid environment where filament can tend to swell.

    I dont measure my filament anymore, I go through that much unless it's giving me issues I just don't bother really. Nozzle drag shouldn't be happening anyway if they are levelled and the other hotend isnt actually in use, and if it use you can use dribble supports.

  3. #13
    This is my experience:
    I have a FF Creator Pro with the bed surface as provided by the manufacturer.
    I used ABS filament that came with the printer.
    The platform was leveled.
    Platform temp 110, Extruder temp 230, printed with a raft.
    While printing a hypercube abour 45 cm wide, at about 5 minutes in, the front left corner began to lift.
    Next, I re-leveled the platform. After about 30 minutes the front left corner began to lift, but only slightly. Less lift.

  4. #14
    TO continue, I repeated the same print with PLA instead of ABS. This is a Hatchback product. Same temps.
    This time, about 40 minutes in, the print head began printing about 1 cm above the the half-finished print.
    I have absolutely no idea what is going on!

  5. #15
    Super Moderator
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    Jun 2016
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    A couple observations.
    1st: I wouldn't use a raft unless it is a part that requires it such as very limited contact with the bed. Also make sure the bed is clean. Acetone or alcohol to clean with.
    2nd: Make sure the printer is enclosed and shielded from drafts such as air conditioning.
    3rd: Let the machine pre-heat for a while with the bed to get the temp up in the chamber.
    4th: You can start to drop the bed temp after the first layer probably down to 100. May take some experimentation.
    5th: You will probably need something to help with adhesion such as hair spray or glue stick or ABS juice.
    6th: Make sure the parts cooling fan is not on.
    7th: Speed. Slow first layer then I would try around 2400mm/min to start with and use a .2 layer height.

    When you had an issue with PLA you mention using the same temps - if it is what you used for ABS then WAY to high! PLA - 65 bed to start then drop after first layer and 200 to start on extruder.

  6. #16
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
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    215
    I only print in ABS and I've completely solved my warping issues.

    Glass plate
    Hairspray (aqua-net extra super-hold)
    110 bed temp
    heated chamber to 50c: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1524781

    The heated chamber is only needed if you are printed tall long pieces.

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