ABS Not Sticking to Bed

[Firepower]

Thanks for the info that ABS being difficult to use. I'll persist just for a bit longer with the ABS.

It seemed to stick all right on the bare Kapton when I increased the Flow to 110% and reduced the Speed to 75% but will try 100% Speed and 110% Flow.

I just put some diluted PVA on the Kapton and it is a bit sticky so hopefully it will be good.

The head really needed cleaning out but it is a bit late tonight to get started so will try tomorrow night.

[Firepower]

I again had problems with the ABS curling up at the ends. I put a coating of a diluted mixture of PVA on the Kapton and the outline ABS stuck really good.

I had the settings of 115 degrees and 240 degrees but had the Flow at 110%. I took it up because it would not start at 100% but later found out that was because of problems in the head.

In the following youtube short video it shows the green PLA quadcopter skirt printed great but the yellow ABS curver up at the ends. Looks like it has straightened out now it is cooled.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRIiVmY2NHo

The yellow round objects all melted on the top. I did put a fan on two of them but I guess I can reduce the temperature slightly also at the end.

I'll print a PLA skirt again and see how it goes.

[danilius]

I print fairly large objects in ABS, and by taking some simple precautions I usually get great prints. ABS has an advantage over PLA in that it is more flexible and tends to have a much smoother surface.

Essentially, all that's involved is heating the bed to 75C for the first layer, then to 110C for the rest. Cover clean glass with ABS juice (around 15% ABS to acetone, but it does not really matter, you will probably end up using your own ratio) and print a brim with at least 10 lines. Some models will require a bit more geometry to prevent warping, such as mouse ears or extra bridges which you remove later by hand. Printing temperatures will depend on the machine, and I print at around 260C if using a 0.8mm nozzle at 0.4mm layer heights at 60mm/sec. For slower speeds, smaller nozzles and lower heights I go down to around 235C. What I watch out for is "angel hair", very fine wisps of plastic. That tells me that the temperature can go down a little. Again, this is something that you will have to figure out yourself.

I don't cover my printer with paper or anything else, it's an Ultimaker 2 and I leave the whole thing open.

You can see one of my prints here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/to...thbrush-holder

I have printed bigger things than that, so you can see that with little effort ABS is perfectly printable.

[Firepower]

You have done some nice colourful prints.

With my Cocoon Printer (Wanhao Duplicator i3) can I just put glass on top of my bed and if so what thickness is used?

Thanks for the additional information.

[Firepower]

I failed. It did not warp but one end came off and went crunch crunch with the head until I stopped it

I was on 75 degrees on the bed and 240 degrees. I thought it was a bit hot and took it to 230 degrees and 10 seconds later one end came off. Reducing the temperature may not have caused it to come off?

Probably hard to do as it it fairly long and the sides are very thin.

I got to .08" before it came off. The rest was stuck good and put the diluted PVA on the Kapton.

[danilius]

I failed. It did not warp but one end came off and went crunch crunch with the head until I stopped it

I was on 75 degrees on the bed and 240 degrees. I thought it was a bit hot and took it to 230 degrees and 10 seconds later one end came off. Reducing the temperature may not have caused it to come off?

Probably hard to do as it it fairly long and the sides are very thin.

You will want the bed at 110C once the print has started. I start with 75C then ramp up to 110C after the bottom layer in order to reduce waiting times for the bed to heat up. So that's your first problem. Nozzle temperature should not affect bed adhesion.

I got to .08" before it came off. The rest was stuck good and put the diluted PVA on the Kapton.

Was that a mis-type, and did you mean "diluted ABS"?

[iDig3Dprinting]

You will want the bed at 110C .....

we second this, 75C is too low for the heated bed for ABS, 100-110 is more usual.

[Firepower]

You will want the bed at 110C once the print has started. I start with 75C then ramp up to 110C after the bottom layer in order to reduce waiting times for the bed to heat up. So that's your first problem. Nozzle temperature should not affect bed adhesion.



Was that a mis-type, and did you mean "diluted ABS"?

I did use diluted PVA glue but I'll use the diluted ABS next time and I have plenty of lacquer thinners.

The PVA made it stick a lot better on the kapton.

[Firepower]

Hi iDig3Dprinting

I am inn the process of changing back to PLA to do a few things. I could not push through the PLA but must have been I did not have the new PLA lined up with the hole. So I pulled the head apart but it was easy to push through the ABS.

The ABS kept bending up from the ends at the 100-110 and it was mentioned to try the 75 degrees for the first few layers. I'll get back to ABS sometime soon but will try PLA for a while.

Wondered if I could just put glass on my bed and what thickness glass if you are you are using glass. Mine is a Cocoon Printer (Wanhao Duplicator i3).

[Firepower]

Seeing I am only new to the 3D printing it is good to see the PLA works great.

I'll get back to the ABS soon and thanks for all the information.PLA.jpg