Close



Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17

Thread: New guy here

  1. #1

    New guy here

    Hello ALL!

    First I just want to say, of course, 3d printers are amazing. In the last 2 weeks, I've watched so many videos and read countless forums and other internet malarkey that it'll make your head spin.

    I just tonight started to understand a little more about my Makerfarm Prusa i3v 12".
    Having small issues getting the Z axis setup correctly. Has a servo mounted switch. Offset is shown as 2.6mms but, jogging the Z to just a hair above the glass nets me 1.3mm. Current firmware is Marlin 1.0.3 on a ramps 1.4 . with slic3r it seems to print sort of close to accurate, at least in my testing. Using Simplify 3d, the nozzle just plows the glass for a few layers.

    I adjusted the Z zero in S3D. Now at the start of a print, any print, S3D raises the Z at the start of a print by 0.1mm . Pronterface does not.

    In the next few days, after more research, I may be updating to a newer Marlin firmware.

    That's all for now as it's 3:40am.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,824
    Add Geoff on Thingiverse
    Quote Originally Posted by bzmotoninja83 View Post
    Hello ALL!



    First I just want to say, of course, 3d printers are amazing. In the last 2 weeks, I've watched so many videos and read countless forums and other internet malarkey that it'll make your head spin.

    I just tonight started to understand a little more about my Makerfarm Prusa i3v 12".
    Having small issues getting the Z axis setup correctly. Has a servo mounted switch. Offset is shown as 2.6mms but, jogging the Z to just a hair above the glass nets me 1.3mm. Current firmware is Marlin 1.0.3 on a ramps 1.4 . with slic3r it seems to print sort of close to accurate, at least in my testing. Using Simplify 3d, the nozzle just plows the glass for a few layers.

    I adjusted the Z zero in S3D. Now at the start of a print, any print, S3D raises the Z at the start of a print by 0.1mm . Pronterface does not.

    In the next few days, after more research, I may be updating to a newer Marlin firmware.

    That's all for now as it's 3:40am.
    Hi, Welcome to the forum.

    Pronterface does not because it is not slicing the model as well as printing. Pronterface is just a control program to send prints to the printer and control the axis, send Gcode commands to it.. (ie send G28 to home the printer... G29 for auto levelling if you have it)

    While Simplify3D is good for having alot of control of your machine, it can be daunting for new users with so many options.

    To fix your issue if you want to use Pronterface too, download a program like Slic3r

    You will need to either make your own profile, or find a slic3r profile for the Prusa you have (I could probably make one for you if you can't figure it out) You need to (in slic3r) manually add the Z raise in the Gcode section of your Profile. Slic3r uses profiles just like Simplify3D (and its free...) and I run 6 different printers from the same slicer - just change profile, generate Gcode and print.

    For example, my Kossel starts with this code, which I pasted into the profile - only need to add it once and save the profile..

    G28 ; home all axes
    G29; Auto Bed Leveling
    G1 X0 Y0 Z40 F5000; Centers Nozzle
    Hex3D - 3D Printing and Design http://www.hex3d.com

  3. #3
    Awesome. I will look into this when I get off work. Thank you for the reply!

  4. #4
    Ok so, im learning so, If I ask stupid questions, they are for reasons that, possibly I cant really answer.

    I know that yourr Gcode wont be exactly the same as mine only because my printer and process is going to be different. As far as the auto bed level, i have one mounted to the side of the extruder body. it does extend to find the relative position of the bed to the nozzle. Like an idiot, I copied your code into S3d and, proceeded to start a test rrun, no filament to be extruded only because I manually set the temps to stay at room temp.

    Silly me... is there a command that needs to be entered to have the Z probe extend? Orr is this assumed and automatically done? my z probe did not extend and the print head crashed into the build surface. LOL

  5. #5
    ok so.... I know all hope is not lost but, I just FINALLY, got the computer ot communicate with the arduino correctly. I found that the USB 3.0 ports are not as legacy as they seem. Found a USB 2.0 port and POOF, it uploads. Now, I need to rumage through the files and set it to use the LCD interface. I dont think I set it up to use the Z probe either.
    Currently, I am going through the videos from Makerfarm so that I can learn at least a little bit.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator Roxy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Lone Star State
    Posts
    2,182
    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff View Post
    While Simplify3D is good for having alot of control of your machine, it can be daunting for new users with so many options.

    To fix your issue if you want to use Pronterface too, download a program like Slic3r
    I have always used Slic3r and Pronterface. But I'm trying to do a big print of a hollowed skull and PronterFace kept blowing up. So, out of desperation I decided to try different tools. I loaded the skull into Cura and I have to say, I'm impressed. It doesn't have a lot of options. It doesn't let me move the nozzle around or control the heat on my bed or nozzle. It really is pretty lame in that regard.

    But it prints really nice with hardly any setup. If you are new to 3D-Printing... It wouldn't hurt to give Cura a quick try. It is impressive for how well it works while being super simple!

  7. #7
    OK so.... I, with the help of my friend and quite a few TOMS GUIDES on youtube, was able to see where my errors were with the LCD not working in the firmware.

    Anotherr issue all together, My Z axis zero probe, the servo.... its dying. In the last 2 weeks that ive had it, it would chatter and bounce around. Last night it stopped chattering. Today, after getting the firmware straight, I sent the proper M280 cmd for the servo to move. I hear the power supply ramp up, and feel the servo get a little tense. Ive already made sure that the servo was configured in the FW.

    When I send the cmd, if I assist the servo movement a little, it jumps to where it is supposed to be just not as fast as it did last week. My friend says he has a 9g servo or 2 that I can have to replace it. That wont be till this upcoming weekend so, for now, I will manually assist the little guy. LOL

  8. #8
    Ok so, I have the new servo in, new firmware uploaded and, even managed to get the offset setup corrrectly. Well, pretty close to correct. Weird issue we had after getting the firmware installed and starting a test print, using S3D, the printer did not wait for the heaters to reach an acceptable level. The bed and nozzle were way to low to start and, it tried to print immediately. Checking S3d, it was checked to wait for the temps to stabilize. This issue was also present printing direct from the SD card also.

    Strange, right? It could have been somehting in the coding using S3d and, I will report back if I have different results with somehting like Pronterface or Cura.

    SIDE NOTE, I picked up a Rapsberry Pi 2 today too.

  9. #9
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,824
    Add Geoff on Thingiverse
    Quote Originally Posted by bzmotoninja83 View Post
    Ok so, I have the new servo in, new firmware uploaded and, even managed to get the offset setup corrrectly. Well, pretty close to correct. Weird issue we had after getting the firmware installed and starting a test print, using S3D, the printer did not wait for the heaters to reach an acceptable level. The bed and nozzle were way to low to start and, it tried to print immediately. Checking S3d, it was checked to wait for the temps to stabilize. This issue was also present printing direct from the SD card also.

    Strange, right? It could have been somehting in the coding using S3d and, I will report back if I have different results with somehting like Pronterface or Cura.

    SIDE NOTE, I picked up a Rapsberry Pi 2 today too.
    This is not a good thing, you should have an anti Cold-Extrusion set in your firmware, so the print should most definitely not start until the nozzles are hot enough, it sounds like for some reason yours is disabled. It will just grind the filament out in the extruder because its forcing it into a cold hot end.

    If you are using Marlin, look for this:

    //this prevents dangerous Extruder moves, i.e. if the temperature is under the limit
    //can be software-disabled for whatever purposes by
    #define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE
    #define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 200
    Hex3D - 3D Printing and Design http://www.hex3d.com

  10. #10
    I dunno what it was. I took it home and everything was so
    perfect.

    In other news, raspi up and running. Having issues getting a CURA profile to save. Really wish it would communicate with S3D but ehh.

    Finally got my offset set right. Seems 1.3 is gold

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •