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Thread: Nightmare start

  1. #31
    Thanks guys..
    That's good to know that the speed that prints well is around the correct ballpark.. I was worried that it should be doing something similar to the defaults in Makerware.


    I think I've found the problem with the nozzle/extruder chugging... it goes away if I use my hand to hold the filament straight up as it goes into the extruder.. if I let it go and the bend radius gets too small as it slacks, then the chugging starts..


    I presume a filament feed tube will cure this problem..

    So the plan is, as previously recommended by bigo93, use this tubing.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3214513331...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


    Then connect it with these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3214513331...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


    And print this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:340031


    However, as the print quality isn't great at the moment and I'm printing only PLA at the moment, I'm a little unsure if I'll be able to print the filament holders in good enough quality to get them to work well.. Perhaps I can use a cable to tie temporarily or something to the main cables... will have an experiment...

  2. #32
    Technician
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    80
    That shouldnt really be happening, even if the filament is drooping to the side, the stepper should still pull the filament.

    It could be the position of the filament feeder, the black block.

    Whilst taking mine apart to level teh nozzles etc, I found that once I couldnt not feed the filament though as easily as before I took it apart.

    So what I did was remove the fans and heatsink, loosen the screws on the blocks and then all a little force to push the block to one side before tightening the screws again.

    At one side I could not feed the filament at all with my hand, of the other side it went through very easily.

    So I think your block has be tightened too far to the loose side, so do the above but make sure you move the block to the right side.



    I've not added or tested these yet either, so if the above doesnt help these should hopefully
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1914493850...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by d43d View Post
    I think I've found the problem with the nozzle/extruder chugging... it goes away if I use my hand to hold the filament straight up as it goes into the extruder.. if I let it go and the bend radius gets too small as it slacks, then the chugging starts..

    I presume a filament feed tube will cure this problem..
    Yes, the filament Guide-tubes are Needed !
    (Anything that will Help the 'free & easy' Movement of filament Is Needed ! )
    (the tubing-fittings that screw into extruder-assembly, at end of tube, are Not needed though)
    Last edited by EagleSeven; 01-30-2016 at 12:02 PM.

  4. #34
    So definitely gettin there! I just did a little test.. solid disc type shape.. 14mm diameter by 5mm.. (same as previous tests) and with the filament loosely cable tied to the main cable run, the filament no longer slipped/tugged at all and was smooth.. This coupled with the slower speed 40mm/s and travel at 80mm/s, has gotten a good result.

    http://oi68.tinypic.com/15nayqf.jpg

    There still is a couple of issues..
    1) On every circular rotation there's kind of an jerky and so that is reflected in the 'seam' type effect along the edge.. Is this normal? A mechanical fault? Slicer fault?

    2) Then the top is a little bumpy at the end (or start?) of each line.. Is this a cooling issue? Is this where people say to use a fan to cool PLA? Is this related to issue 1 perhaps?


    Thanks for the tips.. I've not levelled my nozzles yet.. still just using the right nozzle.
    What is the advantage of that feeder upgrade?
    Has anyone done the supports for the back rod upgrade as described here? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXOmesjMbfU (EDIT: Having read another thread, it appears these are not needed)
    Also I've heard that lithium grease is good to stop noise? Anyone done this? Mine's only noisy really when it raises the bed..
    Last edited by d43d; 01-30-2016 at 04:46 PM.

  5. #35
    The pillow-block bearings on rods are Not needed.
    (As long as Ends of rods and pulleys are not loose )

  6. #36
    Technician
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    80
    idk if you might me interested in this:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Huntik-Tra...oAAOSwbdpWZDR-

    Poundland had quite a few of these in my local store.
    I bought 2. One to use as a deskmat for my keyboard and mouse, and the second I am going to use to put my printer on.

    The mat sticks pretty well to my table and requires some force to move.
    So instead of getting some rubber feet for your printer this mat might be cheaper, seeing as it's £1 from Poundland, dont buy from the ebay link thats just to show you what it looks like.

  7. #37
    Technician
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    80
    Oh dont buy the laser IR temp sensor, it doesnt work with the printer :/

    Apparently bed is too reflective and you cannot change settings with the sensor I linked.
    And nozzles are too small to get a reading from.

    Well at least it has a laser I can annoy my cat with which uses AAA batteries instead of button ones.

  8. #38
    Ah yes it seems like it'd be a little difficult to take a reading of the nozzle accurately..
    I do have some temperature probes.. but not sure about sticking them in a nozzle! Although for a bed reading, I guess they'd work well..


    What is the rubber legs/mat for? Just for stability? I've not noticed any vibrations as such.. but I have some rubber sheet actually which I could put under it..


    I've just checked out this video.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHnbkRm9IGg and am amazed that software can make that much difference.. Perhaps if each software was taylored and tweaked, each could do the same? However, it's making me consider getting simplify3d...


    I've not taken the plunge yet to ABS.. I hear changing can be tricky with regards to clearing nozzle..
    Also, I'm wondering if I should use some perspex or somethingto close up the printer so the temperature is better for ABS...

  9. #39
    I was printing fine lately with every print coming out exactly how I wanted but I've run into a snag again.. half way through the last 2 prints, the extruder stopped extruding. Then when I cancelled the prints and tried a 'load filament', still there was no extrusion. I could push filament through ok but it wouldn't push it through itself. Any ideas of how to rectify this? The motor is turning.. I'm using stock extruders as the recommended spring ones don't appear to be in stock.

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by d43d View Post
    I was printing fine lately with every print coming out exactly how I wanted but I've run into a snag again.. half way through the last 2 prints, the extruder stopped extruding. Then when I cancelled the prints and tried a 'load filament', still there was no extrusion. I could push filament through ok but it wouldn't push it through itself. Any ideas of how to rectify this? The motor is turning.. I'm using stock extruders as the recommended spring ones don't appear to be in stock.
    Teeth of drive-Gear, on motor, may be full of filament plastic.
    Remove motor and Clean gear-teeth with x-acto or other sharp-pointed knife.

    Also make sure Gear is Not loose and spinning on motor-shaft.
    (some stepper-motors have a Flat on shaft,
    but some do Not and gear can spin, when pressure is applied by filament)
    (if no flat on shaft you may want to file one)
    Last edited by EagleSeven; 03-09-2016 at 04:38 PM.

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