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  1. #21
    cool. let us know how it goes

  2. #22
    Student Reify 3D's Avatar
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    Nov 2014
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    Hi,

    We will soon be releasing a printer designed for jewelry/miniatures production. It uses an HD projector and has an adjustable resolution from 41.6 microns XY (80x45mm build area) down to 25 microns XY (48x27mm). It has a very smooth and trouble-free peeling method for a professional surface finish. Below is a recent print from our final prototype. It isn't jewelry, but it shows the excellent brightness and focus uniformity across the full 25 micron XY build area.



    Regards,
    Mark
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  3. #23
    Student Reify 3D's Avatar
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    Our customer printed this beautiful ring with Solus (www.reify-3d.com):


    Alloy: High Palladium 18ct White Gold (7.91g)
    Diamonds: 15 x 0.35ct, GIA G VS1 Ex/Ex/Ex


    Print in B9 Cherry:
    - Projector settings: Eco mode, 50% Brightness, 60% contrast, 1.8 Gamma
    - Exposure settings:
    - Slice Thickness: 0.025
    - Exposure time 2500 (ms)
    - 1 Bottom layer at 10000 (ms)
    - Lift & Sequence time 6000 (ms)
    - Z Lift 4mm
    - Z Lift speed 120
    - Z Retract 250
    - Slide Tilt 3


    - Print time: 2 hours 48 mins
    - Model Height including support and long prongs 29.62mm







    Mark

  4. #24
    Engineer ralphzoontjens's Avatar
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    I am wondering if anybody else has any experience with creating castable models with either the Solus DLP or B9 creator printers, and what the capacity is per day of printing.
    So one ring takes almost 3 hours, but how much time would a full build volume take? I would estimate, given that the Solus could print 30 rings in one volume, it to take a full day.

  5. #25
    Staff Engineer
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    Jan 2014
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    I've never even seen a Solus in person, but I've been using a B9 for a while now. It's hard to say exactly how long an unknown print would take, but projection printers are pretty fast compared to machines that need to trace the whole part on each layer. It doesn't really matter that much how much stuff is on each layer, since the whole slice is exposed at the same time. The main thing that takes time is the peel/raise/wipe/reset cycle. The time that will require is determined by the height of the part and the layer thickness.

  6. #26
    Hi All
    im new to the forum, but glad i came across this thread, as i am in the industry and not looking for a new printer, but more the castability of various waxes/resins.

    we have just had a form 1+ be RMAed and now they offering a trade up to the Form 2 - anyone have any feedback on this pritner, as apparently the new version is a big imporvement ?

    we are currently using an envisiontec and a projet 1200 at our office.
    castability of these resins has been a nightmare and if anyone has a guide or can point me to a thread i would appreciate it.

    casting of the projet resin is a mess, and had no luck getting this even remotely correct.

    the casting of the EPIC wax from envisointec is nearly there, i am still getting a little ash, especially with large rings, but i am working on this currently with various methods and burnouts to try and solve this issue.

  7. #27
    Staff Engineer
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    Jan 2014
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    864
    The Form2 is a lot bigger than the Form1+, and it adds a wiper that helps keep the PDMS layer refreshed, but at a certain cost in speed. They wouldn't trade in my Form1+, so I haven't tried it myself. But feedback in their forum suggests it's still not 100% reliable, and you have to use their materials preloaded into cartridges - they won't let you use 3rd-party materials on the Form2, although it's possible with the Form1+/

    If you're printing jewelry it will take more resin to keep the tank full, but you can do more patterns at a time. Formlabs recently introduced a castable resin, but I haven't tried burning it out yet. The usage guide on their site https://support.formlabs.com/hc/en-u...Castable-Resin suggests several things you're probably doing already, like using Plasticast investment, bringing it up to a higher-than-normal temperature, holding it at the hottest temp for a while, and introducing a little air into the kiln to combust the residual ash.

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