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  1. #21
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Brummen, Netherlands
    Posts
    265
    Nice result. The 'gritty' look of the lower layers will be due to small steam/decomposition bubbles. If you dry your PETG you will see less of that.

    If you have no problems with the lowest temp (and the layer bonding is still OK), try going even lower. I can easily print down to 200-210 C with my FF. Disregard what anyone advises and do yourown tests. I invariably find that the temperature recommendations are too high.

    What you want is no edge curling and nice flat bridging over the hollow spaces, and still good layer bonding. A break test(pliers may be needed) can help you with the latter.

    Temperature will also depend on printing speed, at higher speeds you will need a higher temp in order to melt the plastic.

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Alibert View Post
    Nice result. The 'gritty' look of the lower layers will be due to small steam/decomposition bubbles. If you dry your PETG you will see less of that.

    If you have no problems with the lowest temp (and the layer bonding is still OK), try going even lower. I can easily print down to 200-210 C with my FF. Disregard what anyone advises and do yourown tests. I invariably find that the temperature recommendations are too high.

    What you want is no edge curling and nice flat bridging over the hollow spaces, and still good layer bonding. A break test(pliers may be needed) can help you with the latter.

    Temperature will also depend on printing speed, at higher speeds you will need a higher temp in order to melt the plastic.
    I have to think the curling is just a result of the very short print time per layer... on my production parts that wont be the case.
    .
    Bridging though is really tough with petg because its so dang fluid, you have to do like 5 top shells to get it done at all. unless you run a fan on high, which I dont typically do. I hear the bonding is much better without a fan??

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