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  1. #541
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    Adjust temps? Adjust height? Adjust first layer speed, height, and width? Especially speed.

  2. #542
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    So, it seems those active in this thread are pretty mod happy.
    Has anyone by chance replaced the buildplate mounting hardware with something bigger?
    I'm about at my whits end with these puny M3s...they to damn short, and the threads not even strong enough to hold against the springs long-term.

    I have yet to have that bit of the machine totally taken apart, but from what I gather the aluminium plate is just that, a plate, so no issue drilling the holes bigger there ya. And it seems the heating element plate has leads from where the plug is to near the center, nothing near the 3 mounting bolt holes. From my understanding of how it all works there should be no issue drilling those holes out a bit either.

    I'd really like to step up to M5s...but M4s would be ok too.
    What yall think?

  3. #543
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Syd_Khaos View Post
    So, it seems those active in this thread are pretty mod happy.
    Has anyone by chance replaced the buildplate mounting hardware with something bigger?
    I'm about at my whits end with these puny M3s...they to damn short, and the threads not even strong enough to hold against the springs long-term.

    I have yet to have that bit of the machine totally taken apart, but from what I gather the aluminium plate is just that, a plate, so no issue drilling the holes bigger there ya. And it seems the heating element plate has leads from where the plug is to near the center, nothing near the 3 mounting bolt holes. From my understanding of how it all works there should be no issue drilling those holes out a bit either.

    I'd really like to step up to M5s...but M4s would be ok too.
    What yall think?
    Don't know what to tell you I've never had an issue with the build plate adjusting screws.
    Also don't need to adjust the level much either.
    I suppose you could increase the screw size as long as it does not effect the heating board.

  4. #544
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcleav View Post
    Don't know what to tell you I've never had an issue with the build plate adjusting screws.
    Also don't need to adjust the level much either.
    I suppose you could increase the screw size as long as it does not effect the heating board.
    It does not seem like it would effect the heating board, but I'm not totally sure how that thing works. Seems like as long as the leads on that plate are not messed up it should still heat evenly...I'd guess. The thing is to use bigger hardware I'm gonna have to drill out the holes a bit, in the aluminium and the heat board. I know the top plate will be fine, just a little nervous drilling through the actual heat plate.
    Maybe I should ask Qidi about it...

    Its just that the M3s seem to not hold at all. Have to re-level the bed after EVERY print, and its not a little adjustment, its always WAY off. On some prints (those with dense infill, or most times I use honeycomb infill) there is so much shaking it will come out of level during the print.

    edit: Just e-mailed Qidi about this. I'm pretty sure it would be ok, but would like to know for sure before I stick this thing in a drillpress.
    Last edited by Syd_Khaos; 03-15-2016 at 11:38 AM.

  5. #545
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    Those of you printing on glass....whats your typical bed temp on ABS.

    I have not had a print finish in going on 2 full days now. EVERYTHING pulls off the plate a little ways in. Even tried a few things still saved on the SD card that printed perfectly just few days ago. Even these are curling off the plate.
    What the hell is going on here?
    I know humidity can effect the material pre-melt, does it also effect adhession to the build plate?
    Last edited by Syd_Khaos; 03-15-2016 at 01:11 PM.

  6. #546
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    ABS 90-110c

  7. #547
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    What bed temp? 110 is too hot if that is what you are using. Use 90-95, it lets the bottom layers properly harden, where 110 is too close to the glass point of the abs to allow that. Use ABS slurry also...

  8. #548
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    110C does not seem to hot for ABS IMO. I've done anything from 95-110C.

    @Syd_Khaos - what exactly is your issue with the build platform? If the M3 screws are too short, can't you replace them with longer ones, to give you more travel with the springs? Or replace the springs? I don't see why you need to drill and use a thicker screw.

  9. #549
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    Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
    @Syd_Khaos - what exactly is your issue with the build platform? If the M3 screws are too short, can't you replace them with longer ones, to give you more travel with the springs? Or replace the springs? I don't see why you need to drill and use a thicker screw.
    They are to short, but cant get M3s anywhere local (except M3s about 1/4" long), and I'd prefer not to purchase hardware online.
    But more to it than that.
    The amount of releveling needed between prints, and the way it comes out of level during dense infill prints (causing the print to be canceled) is a pretty clear indication there is some thread slippage going on. That kinda makes me not wanna put the same hardware back in. Things that are over-engineered typically don't fail =) I'd put M8s in there if it didn't seem overly silly. Some M5s in there sure would make me happy though.

  10. #550
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    I still don't understand why your having this problem.
    Could you take some pictures of the build plate and surrounding area while printing or leveling.
    Maybe we could spot something unusual.

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