Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[jfkansas]

New heat bar, heat sinks and fan set up from our friend JF. Went together very nicely.


[IMG][/IMG]

Nice, was wondering the other day if you got it installed. Be sure to secure the wiring to the stress relief plastic on the top.

[jfkansas]

You will never hear the "drive gear" slip or "click". Any sort of clicking is a stepper being overloaded. Could be a clog, feeding filament too fast, or the hot end not hot enough and it can't melt the filament fast enough for the feed rate.

Hey everyone!

Before I start taking apart the extruder, I thought I'd ask a question I am sure is on the previous 381 pages! :-)

I have been doing fine with prints up until now. All of a sudden, I hear clicking which I assume is coming from the hobble gear skipping on the filament. The printer, while this was going on, was under-extruding. (I have seen this in the past with my other 3d printers during over-extrusion when it just can't push the filament out quickly enough.) I was able to extract the filament and run the extruder without filament. No clicking. When I put the filament back in and just try to extrude some into the air, I see it is under-extruding and clicking again.

Thoughts prior to a disassemble?

Thanks!

Update: I pulled the motor, heat sink, and fan off. They look fine. My guess is there is a clog further downstream.

[jfkansas]

Nice looking parts. Ya the scars I hate too. Generally they can be smoothed out easily in ABS, but PLA is a little different.

Put that on my S3d wish list, Z lift on flat surfaces. Ya sure you could do a different process for that layer, but that gets tedious. In general Z lift slows things down and isn't needed.

Made a wall bracket for my phone and wireless charger. Phone slides in front of the charger.
Designed in Fusion 360 and printed in PLA with the Micro-Swiss all metal hot-ends. Still needs some clean up.
Wish I could stop the nozzle drags!

[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

[Talon 3D]

Thank you for the info.
One thing I like about the QIDI is the ability to do so much with them while still being affordable.
I've got PrintBite on the plate so that is working great. Dialed in for ABS, PLA, PLA-PHA and PetG. Now the adjustments and upgrades for printing flexible materials is next. I've got to print out a set of caps for one of my scopes. Mine disappeared. I found a great template and adjusted it to fit. I figure semiflex or fully flexible filaments would be good. Funny e-Sun PetG might work but sometimes I'm out in subzero temps, so something with a bit more flexibility to start with may be the way to go.

The stock hot ends PTFE lined are better than the Microswiss conversions. The best nozzle to use for the flex filaments is the P3-d coated brass MK10, it works better than the coated Microswiss for some reason, both being PTFE style.... I suppose it could be the internal shape. Of course you want to print out the feeder mechanisms on my Thingiverse, they help a lot, and use the old style drive gear, the one with teeth going all the way across the length of the gear.

[wirlybird]

I have left my FFCP that has the Flexion's with the stock hot end set up with PTFE. Works fine with flexible. If I need to change nozzles I'll look for these you suggest.

The stock hot ends PTFE lined are better than the Microswiss conversions. The best nozzle to use for the flex filaments is the P3-d coated brass MK10, it works better than the coated Microswiss for some reason, both being PTFE style.... I suppose it could be the internal shape. Of course you want to print out the feeder mechanisms on my Thingiverse, they help a lot, and use the old style drive gear, the one with teeth going all the way across the length of the gear.

[wirlybird]

I am planning to!! I knew if I did it right away I would find something I forgot and have to cut it loose!

Nice, was wondering the other day if you got it installed. Be sure to secure the wiring to the stress relief plastic on the top.

[wirlybird]

I forget to add some lift but it seems at times it doesn't do much.

Nice looking parts. Ya the scars I hate too. Generally they can be smoothed out easily in ABS, but PLA is a little different.

Put that on my S3d wish list, Z lift on flat surfaces. Ya sure you could do a different process for that layer, but that gets tedious. In general Z lift slows things down and isn't needed.

[jfkansas]

Z lift is adjustable so more might be better. I've never used it though. There is only like 2-3 layers on a print that would ever need it.

I forget to add some lift but it seems at times it doesn't do much.

[jfkansas]

Ya, they make more zip ties. :-)

I am planning to!! I knew if I did it right away I would find something I forgot and have to cut it loose!

[jfkansas]

I'd just use Ninja and skip the Semi. Ninja is pretty rigid as it is.

Thank you for the info.
One thing I like about the QIDI is the ability to do so much with them while still being affordable.
I've got PrintBite on the plate so that is working great. Dialed in for ABS, PLA, PLA-PHA and PetG. Now the adjustments and upgrades for printing flexible materials is next. I've got to print out a set of caps for one of my scopes. Mine disappeared. I found a great template and adjusted it to fit. I figure semiflex or fully flexible filaments would be good. Funny e-Sun PetG might work but sometimes I'm out in subzero temps, so something with a bit more flexibility to start with may be the way to go.