Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[DaveB]

Seems to extrude normally. Definitely no clicking sounds. Temperatures look good. They don't have exactly the same material (both Hatchbox PLA, different colors), but close. I'm using S3D, and I'm doing same settings, apart from swapping nozzles.

Nozzle height difference twixt L & R extruders would be my guess.

[jfkansas]

The top is ok but it is not at 100% yet. It is a 20X20X20, I keep forgetting to cut it down! Orientation would be as I am facing the printer this deformed area is the right rear corner.
At first I thought it was because I had selected specific start point for the extruder but when I re-ran it with optimized selected it still did it but not as bad however then I get the saw-tooth effect on the corners of the cube! Another issue to deal with.

I switched back to a Makergeeks white ABS last night and am running the cube again and I think I am not getting this issue. I will be able to start testing later.

Anything but a 20x20x10 100% infil cube is a waste of time. Your corners are from gantry overshoot, probably printing too fast or need to turn down acceleration numbers. The distortion lower is from the part lifting from the bed.

[wirlybird]

I'll get re-started on testing later and report back. Thanks.

Anything but a 20x20x10 100% infil cube is a waste of time. Your corners are from gantry overshoot, probably printing too fast or need to turn down acceleration numbers. The distortion lower is from the part lifting from the bed.

[jfkansas]

One thing to also try is print 2 cubes at once. It gives more cooling time between layers of each. Can even do a different processe on each to accelerate testing.

[Merijeek]

Interesting. How is that even possible? Both assemblies rest on the carriage. Near as I could tell there was no sort of wiggle room like you have with the MP Mini, where there was some room between the plastic tube and the feed hole.

[wirlybird]

On mine I have to shim the right side under the heat bar that bolts to the carriage about the thickness of one sheet of paper to raise the right nozzle slightly. My guess is the carriage is just off on that side. Maybe it bowed down a bit - I don't know but it's just plastic so who knows. My right nozzle was just enough lower to catch once and a while on something. Shimming was the most suggested way to compensate. It has worked fine.

Interesting. How is that even possible? Both assemblies rest on the carriage. Near as I could tell there was no sort of wiggle room like you have with the MP Mini, where there was some room between the plastic tube and the feed hole.

[Merijeek]

On mine I have to shim the right side under the heat bar that bolts to the carriage about the thickness of one sheet of paper to raise the right nozzle slightly. My guess is the carriage is just off on that side. Maybe it bowed down a bit - I don't know but it's just plastic so who knows. My right nozzle was just enough lower to catch once and a while on something. Shimming was the most suggested way to compensate. It has worked fine.

Awesome. I'll give that a shot when I get home. Assuming my bright orange Pac Man ghost (left Extruder!) is finished printing when I get there. 20+ hours!

Which piece, exactly, is the heat bar?

[jfkansas]

If you aren't using dual extruders (which is most of the time for me) then you should minimally remove the nozzle unused nozzle. Preferably remove the left stepper hot end, heatsink/fan and all wiring.

One thing I do on my printers first thing is rewire the print head wires into 2 looms. One for all the left stuff and one for all the right stuff. The cooling fan wires can just be ran up the side of one of the looms.

[DaveB]

I had not seen anyone mention it, but Flexion now has the high temperature version of their extruder up on their website at https://flexionextruder.com/

I found the chart at the bottom very interesting.


Product Description


High-temperature 3D printer extruder upgrade or retrofit kit for common 3D printers. This upgrade allows printing of materials at up to 290°C. The barrel is designed in collaboration with Micro Swiss. The finned mounting block has several advantages:

• Better thermal performance
• Visibility of extruder (you can remove your stock heatsink – but continue to use the fan)
• Easy removal of the hotend without disassembling the motor and extruder (tool access between fan blades)

[jfkansas]

Ya not sure why they stuck with the Flexion name since this isn't good at all for flex filaments. lol

I had not seen anyone mention it, but Flexion now has the high temperature version of their extruder up on their website at https://flexionextruder.com/

I found the chart at the bottom very interesting.


Product Description


High-temperature 3D printer extruder upgrade or retrofit kit for common 3D printers. This upgrade allows printing of materials at up to 290°C. The barrel is designed in collaboration with Micro Swiss. The finned mounting block has several advantages:

• Better thermal performance
• Visibility of extruder (you can remove your stock heatsink – but continue to use the fan)
• Easy removal of the hotend without disassembling the motor and extruder (tool access between fan blades)