Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[wirlybird]

PeTG and Flexibale filaments will print JUST fine with the stock nozzles setup on these machines. However for things like Ninja-flex your gonna wanna upgrade your feed carriage parts...you can print some really good ones.

I would STRONGLY recommend a glass plate or ANY kind of removable build plate. If you prefer printing onto a PVC sticker there are many removable plates (even glass) that will work with them.
There is 2 reasons for this. Prints will be more easy to remove with the plate outside of the machine. You also wont knock your platform out of alignment trying to get prints off the plate.

As for the S3D question. There is a VERY good reason S3D is the current industrys top rated (and probably most used) slicers on the market. And like Dave said, your slicer can make a HUGE difference in the way a print comes out.

@ wirly:
"I love the glass plate with hairspray. The blue sticker does work well especially for small parts. Bigger ones start to get hard to get off."

Not that hard to seperate things from PVC sticker...IF your using the right gluestick. I have done prints that took up almost the entire plate...popped off easy-peasy. When print is done let plate cool to ambient temp, then toss it in a bucket of water. 10min later it will be off the plate. This works if your using the Elmers purple school gluesticks.

Haven't really used the glue (do have the purple stuff) but was commenting on the x-one printer using the supplied blue pad on the heated build plate so taking it out and to dunk is not really feasible!! It would drown the heater element on the bed! I'll have to try the glue on a larger print on that one and see how it comes apart.

I have a glass plate for that one but am not sure how to attach it! There is one bolt in the middle and then the three adjusters - no other corner bolts to use for glass clips.

[Talon 3D]

That is good to know.
I am going to be using some more abrasive filaments soon I want to have spares.
What glass plate are you using?

For nozzles for the I have been buying the 4 pack with PTFE tube off ebay from QIDI, pretty good price. I am going to switch over to the all metal from MicroSwiss (have them) but just waiting to change them since S3D wants to test on the QIDI and stock configurations is needed. I think getting used to things in stock format is a good idea then when you make changes you may see better what is different and how to adjust.

I love the glass plate with hairspray. The blue sticker does work well especially for small parts. Bigger ones start to get hard to get off.

[Talon 3D]

That is good to hear. I will pick up next week I think.
Thanks again.

Everyone here told me to take the plunge and go with it. I am glad I did. It is a bunch of cash but I like it. I read a lot all over on this stuff and frequently hear people talking about how their prints got better when they switched. I have never really tried the other ones so I can't compare.
There is a lot to it and a lot to learn. Support has been good.

[Talon 3D]

Agreed. Good analogy.

I completely agree. Getting a 3D printer to behave predictably is a complex and often frustrating task. The slicer is both the miracle-occurs-here portion of that process, and the lens/portal through which your interaction occurs. IMO, S3D is the best tool available. It lets you focus upon the tweaks to getting your print perfect rather than upon the mechanics of the process.

[Talon 3D]

I was looking at the upgraded carriage parts on Thingiverse for printing NigaFlex.
PeTG is something I am looking forward too. The translucent qualities will be interesting for some stuff as well as strength.

What glass plate do you recommend?

I have done some large prints on the blue sticker using purple glue. I just was an hour or so and the form pops right off. I guess I have been lucky. LOL
I am wanting to just use those though. if there is something easier that I don't have to replace tape and crap that would be great.

S3D I will be getting.

Thanks

PeTG and Flexibale filaments will print JUST fine with the stock nozzles setup on these machines. However for things like Ninja-flex your gonna wanna upgrade your feed carriage parts...you can print some really good ones.

I would STRONGLY recommend a glass plate or ANY kind of removable build plate. If you prefer printing onto a PVC sticker there are many removable plates (even glass) that will work with them.
There is 2 reasons for this. Prints will be more easy to remove with the plate outside of the machine. You also wont knock your platform out of alignment trying to get prints off the plate.

As for the S3D question. There is a VERY good reason S3D is the current industrys top rated (and probably most used) slicers on the market. And like Dave said, your slicer can make a HUGE difference in the way a print comes out.

@ wirly:
"I love the glass plate with hairspray. The blue sticker does work well especially for small parts. Bigger ones start to get hard to get off."

Not that hard to seperate things from PVC sticker...IF your using the right gluestick. I have done prints that took up almost the entire plate...popped off easy-peasy. When print is done let plate cool to ambient temp, then toss it in a bucket of water. 10min later it will be off the plate. This works if your using the Elmers purple school gluesticks.

[Syd_Khaos]

I have a glass plate for that one but am not sure how to attach it! There is one bolt in the middle and then the three adjusters - no other corner bolts to use for glass clips.

Meh..I ditched the fancy plate holders within first week of having the printer. Got a pack of pinch clamps at Wal-Mart for $3 and they work like a champ. Have used nothing else since. They are ALOT easier to get off then even the simplest of the printed plate holders/clamps.

[Syd_Khaos]

[QUOTE=Talon 3D;97208]
What glass plate do you recommend?

Anything Borosilicate. There an industrial supply company called MC Master Car thst sells plates the right size. You may also want to try contacting any local glass shops (esp those dealing with high-end bath enclosures) to see if they have any Boro.

[DaveB]

[QUOTE=Syd_Khaos;97212]

What glass plate do you recommend?

Anything Borosilicate. There an industrial supply company called MC Master Car thst sells plates the right size. You may also want to try contacting any local glass shops (esp those dealing with high-end bath enclosures) to see if they have any Boro.

mcmaster.com

1	8476K74	Heat-Resistant Borosilicate Glass, Rectangle, 1/4" Thick, 9" Width X 6" length				18.73 Each

Some folks use 1/8", some 1/4". I've got the 1/4" thick boro and it is a LOT of thermal mass to heat. At 6x9, the stock McMaster Carr product is slightly smaller than the full size of the build plate. Glass has another property that I did not see mentioned: It is flat. Wonderfully, thoroughly, flat.

[Talon 3D]

Thanks Dave and Syd_Khaos

[QUOTE=DaveB;97216]

mcmaster.com

1	8476K74	Heat-Resistant Borosilicate Glass, Rectangle, 1/4" Thick, 9" Width X 6" length				18.73 Each

Some folks use 1/8", some 1/4". I've got the 1/4" thick boro and it is a LOT of thermal mass to heat. At 6x9, the stock McMaster Carr product is slightly smaller than the full size of the build plate. Glass has another property that I did not see mentioned: It is flat. Wonderfully, thoroughly, flat.

[Noircogi]

I bought these and they fit perfectly. Three is really more than you need, but two are nice to have. I believe 1/8 is better than 1/4 inch thickness, less mas to heat and cool and less build height lost.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-x-9-150mm-...4AAOSwI-BWQsRY

I built some aluminum brackets which bolt to the bottom of the build plate and hold the glass in place with a nice snug friction fit. It snaps in and is still easily removable to speed up the cool-down and removal.