Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[DarkAlchemist]

Do you happen to know, or anyone for that matter, what these bearings are? Are they simply 608zz type and the 8mm smooth rods go into them? If they are 608s I would open it up and replace them with better bearings as I have purchased a lot of them from China and some are so-so to down right garbage but my step son was using 608s ABEC 5 on his skateboards growing up as a teenager (he would spend all day skateboarding many days of the week back then at skateboard parks, etc...) and those things would last in a printer for a decade I think, lol.

[DarkAlchemist]

I am on the fence with trying the Avatar iV. I am running 4 FlashForge Creator Pros for my business right now, I run a ton of TPU. And I am needing to add a few more printers and am wondering if the Qidi is worth the savings over the FFCP?

I have no idea as I am on the fence about this as well so I hope you get the answers you seek.

[Tikz]

I will have to try this. I started a new print just about 5 minutes ago. Started out totally silent, now I am starting to hear the creaking again. Seems to me like a lube issue. Thanks for the write up!

I spent a good deal of time after work today to diagnose and finally correct the creaking myself. It's fully resolved in 45 minutes with no creaking/squeaking anymore and the instructions for the fix are as follows:

Items required:
1. 45 minutes of time
2. 1-2mm or smaller tipped syringe, I used a flat syringe tip as to not scratch the bearing (The only reason a small tipped syringe is needed is because we are not dropping/loosening the rear right carriage assembly and it is a very tight squeeze in that corner)
3. Sewing machine oil or similar thin machine bearing oil, I found that Super Lube was too thick to get into the bearing properly and that is why my squeaking persisted even after greasing
4. Some sort of rag, I used paper towels to catch the over-spill and clean after oiling
5. Possibly a flashlight if you are in a low light situation

Steps:
1. Fill syringe and get rags ready, sewing machine oil is thin/runny
2. Remove right acrylic window
3. Remove right sheet metal frame piece (piece that right window bolts onto)
4. Move the extruder to the center/center position to have good access to rear right and front right carriage assemblies
5. Position rag for catching over-spill
6. Put a drop or two of lubricating oil into the inner circle of the bearing - aim carefully, this will ensure when you move the Y-Axis again it will evenly distribute throughout the whole bearing
7. Repeat step 5 + 6 for each bearing as seen in the photos - there are 4 bearings total, two for the front right and two for the back right. With some assistance, I have taken photos and illustrated where to place the drops of oil.

I wrote this up since I was extremely perplexed as to why I couldn't find the proper steps to perform this fix and was loosening carriage assemblies and moving my extruder back and forth quickly which didn't produce any positive results. What I have described above is a repeatable maintenance procedure that I will perform if the creaking comes back and it can be done in 45 minutes or less. The major thing is to make sure not to get oil onto the belts/belt drives/electrical components. This can easily be accomplished by placing a rag under the work area and then bringing the rag up the wall to clean all the way to the bearing while not spreading the oil to belts or other components. I will still use Super Lube for the Axis rods, but Super Lube is way too thick to reach the proper areas of the bearings.

If this write-up should be its own thread, let me know and I'll post it separately. Otherwise, hopefully this helps the users who have been having the same issue I had and now I am printing in peace and quiet!

FYI, the photos were taken after the maintenance and the extruder was in the rear-center position at that time. Center-center is the position the extruder was in when the oiling was performed.

[jfkansas]

Lol, I always thought you were a guy.

Best lube I have found is Mystic Lubes Green No2 thinned with a little 3n1 oil. I agree on the Superlube, I think it is too thick. It might work if you can pack the bearings, but still I like the lighter grease, and it isn't as sticky.

I spent a good deal of time after work today to diagnose and finally correct the creaking myself. It's fully resolved in 45 minutes with no creaking/squeaking anymore and the instructions for the fix are as follows:

Items required:
1. 45 minutes of time
2. 1-2mm or smaller tipped syringe, I used a flat syringe tip as to not scratch the bearing (The only reason a small tipped syringe is needed is because we are not dropping/loosening the rear right carriage assembly and it is a very tight squeeze in that corner)
3. Sewing machine oil or similar thin machine bearing oil, I found that Super Lube was too thick to get into the bearing properly and that is why my squeaking persisted even after greasing
4. Some sort of rag, I used paper towels to catch the over-spill and clean after oiling
5. Possibly a flashlight if you are in a low light situation

Steps:
1. Fill syringe and get rags ready, sewing machine oil is thin/runny
2. Remove right acrylic window
3. Remove right sheet metal frame piece (piece that right window bolts onto)
4. Move the extruder to the center/center position to have good access to rear right and front right carriage assemblies
5. Position rag for catching over-spill
6. Put a drop or two of lubricating oil into the inner circle of the bearing - aim carefully, this will ensure when you move the Y-Axis again it will evenly distribute throughout the whole bearing
7. Repeat step 5 + 6 for each bearing as seen in the photos - there are 4 bearings total, two for the front right and two for the back right. With some assistance, I have taken photos and illustrated where to place the drops of oil.

I wrote this up since I was extremely perplexed as to why I couldn't find the proper steps to perform this fix and was loosening carriage assemblies and moving my extruder back and forth quickly which didn't produce any positive results. What I have described above is a repeatable maintenance procedure that I will perform if the creaking comes back and it can be done in 45 minutes or less. The major thing is to make sure not to get oil onto the belts/belt drives/electrical components. This can easily be accomplished by placing a rag under the work area and then bringing the rag up the wall to clean all the way to the bearing while not spreading the oil to belts or other components. I will still use Super Lube for the Axis rods, but Super Lube is way too thick to reach the proper areas of the bearings.

If this write-up should be its own thread, let me know and I'll post it separately. Otherwise, hopefully this helps the users who have been having the same issue I had and now I am printing in peace and quiet!

FYI, the photos were taken after the maintenance and the extruder was in the rear-center position at that time. Center-center is the position the extruder was in when the oiling was performed.

[jfkansas]

Do you happen to know, or anyone for that matter, what these bearings are? Are they simply 608zz type and the 8mm smooth rods go into them? If they are 608s I would open it up and replace them with better bearings as I have purchased a lot of them from China and some are so-so to down right garbage but my step son was using 608s ABEC 5 on his skateboards growing up as a teenager (he would spend all day skateboarding many days of the week back then at skateboard parks, etc...) and those things would last in a printer for a decade I think, lol.

No, they are linear bearings... Not rotary.

[cncartist]

Lol, I always thought you were a guy.

Best lube I have found is Mystic Lubes Green No2 thinned with a little 3n1 oil. I agree on the Superlube, I think it is too thick. It might work if you can pack the bearings, but still I like the lighter grease, and it isn't as sticky.

Definitely, I have heard good things about Mystic and it has been on my radar. I was thinking about getting something like that if the sewing machine oil didn't work out but I'm just about to start a 20 hour print and further test it.

Haha, the hands are not mine per my verbiage - "With some assistance". For some reason I couldn't keep the camera steady and the syringe on the bearing at the same time and needed a "helping hand" to take these photos properly and illustrate the oiling locations.

I will have to try this. I started a new print just about 5 minutes ago. Started out totally silent, now I am starting to hear the creaking again. Seems to me like a lube issue. Thanks for the write up!

Definitely, a 1 1/2 hour print just finished and it sounded great.

I hope it helps others as I know it helped my ears/sanity and I'm just about to start another 20 hour print which will definitely put a test to it. Yesterday at this time I wouldn't even think of starting a 20 hour print with that creaking for the noise it makes and the amount of worry I had if something seized.

[DarkAlchemist]

No, they are linear bearings... Not rotary.

The bearings that were being lubed was not linear as I saw the video and that spot turns in a circular motion so they would have to be axial bearings. If they used LM8UU in that spot then there is the issue.

This spot - mXLOC7F.jpg

[kaznad]

Hi Guys,

Anyone has any clue why there is so much stringing in my print. I print PLA at 220C with 40C bed temps. Thanks.

IMG_20160415_220038.jpg

Also thanks to cncartist for offering to design the clips for me. Very nice of you.
But I found this site tinkerCAD where it is very easy to modify models. I am currently working on the clips. Very exciting! My first design, well not my design but modification of design

[DarkAlchemist]

Hi Guys,

Anyone has any clue why there is so much stringing in my print. I print PLA at 220C with 40C bed temps. Thanks.

IMG_20160415_220038.jpg

Also thanks to cncartist for offering to design the clips for me. Very nice of you.
But I found this site tinkerCAD where it is very easy to modify models. I am currently working on the clips. Very exciting! My first design, well not my design but modification of design

Retraction would be my bet as in not enough especially with the blobbing I am seeing as well. Increase the distance and increase the speed as well.

edit: Two posts I have used on and off for a while now I think people should bookmark is http://support.3dverkstan.se/article...shooting-guide and https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printin...eir-solutions/

The first link I have used for a couple of years now and the second for a few months and both are darn good at showing you a problem then telling you what needs to be fixed.

[Warren O'neill]

Thank you very much for your instructions

i have dun this and i am now printing silent again.
i just used sewing machine oil and it worked well.

I spent a good deal of time after work today to diagnose and finally correct the creaking myself. It's fully resolved in 45 minutes with no creaking/squeaking anymore and the instructions for the fix are as follows:

Items required:
1. 45 minutes of time
2. 1-2mm or smaller tipped syringe, I used a flat syringe tip as to not scratch the bearing (The only reason a small tipped syringe is needed is because we are not dropping/loosening the rear right carriage assembly and it is a very tight squeeze in that corner)
3. Sewing machine oil or similar thin machine bearing oil, I found that Super Lube was too thick to get into the bearing properly and that is why my squeaking persisted even after greasing
4. Some sort of rag, I used paper towels to catch the over-spill and clean after oiling
5. Possibly a flashlight if you are in a low light situation

Steps:
1. Fill syringe and get rags ready, sewing machine oil is thin/runny
2. Remove right acrylic window
3. Remove right sheet metal frame piece (piece that right window bolts onto)
4. Move the extruder to the center/center position to have good access to rear right and front right carriage assemblies
5. Position rag for catching over-spill
6. Put a drop or two of lubricating oil into the inner circle of the bearing - aim carefully, this will ensure when you move the Y-Axis again it will evenly distribute throughout the whole bearing
7. Repeat step 5 + 6 for each bearing as seen in the photos - there are 4 bearings total, two for the front right and two for the back right. With some assistance, I have taken photos and illustrated where to place the drops of oil.

I wrote this up since I was extremely perplexed as to why I couldn't find the proper steps to perform this fix and was loosening carriage assemblies and moving my extruder back and forth quickly which didn't produce any positive results. What I have described above is a repeatable maintenance procedure that I will perform if the creaking comes back and it can be done in 45 minutes or less. The major thing is to make sure not to get oil onto the belts/belt drives/electrical components. This can easily be accomplished by placing a rag under the work area and then bringing the rag up the wall to clean all the way to the bearing while not spreading the oil to belts or other components. I will still use Super Lube for the Axis rods, but Super Lube is way too thick to reach the proper areas of the bearings.

If this write-up should be its own thread, let me know and I'll post it separately. Otherwise, hopefully this helps the users who have been having the same issue I had and now I am printing in peace and quiet!

FYI, the photos were taken after the maintenance and the extruder was in the rear-center position at that time. Center-center is the position the extruder was in when the oiling was performed.