Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[DarkAlchemist]

I have absolutely NO problems with BuildTak. I have even used it to print ABS on my Fabrikator Mini without a heated bed. I have used Glass in the past, and still prefer my flexible plate with BuildTak any day. I can pull it off literally RIGHT after a print finishes, and within seconds it is cool to the touch and the part is off the bed and I am ready to print again (Although I usually use a different plate because I have several ready to go. )

Pulling a part off that soon would ruin the stuff I do as internal holes, etc... would deform. Nothing worse than to grab on to a print and leave an indent where my thumb was. :/

[KludgeGuru]

I used 3M adhesive to stick a glass plate on top of my sprint steel, so now my glass is held in place with magnets. I really like the Maghold platform as it gives me the ability to easily change out my build plate to print on different material. I have a few spring steel sheets and I can print on glass, PET tape, or PEI plastic.

[bluemeane]

Pulling a part off that soon would ruin the stuff I do as internal holes, etc... would deform. Nothing worse than to grab on to a print and leave an indent where my thumb was. :/

That's just it, I don't have to touch the parts lol. Just the fact of the sheet cooling so quickly loosens most of the parts, then a gentle flex of the plate and they fall off.

Also I have never had a part come off that is soft to the touch.... Like ever... Unless it is super super thin and only a few layers high lol.

[DarkAlchemist]

That's just it, I don't have to touch the parts lol. Just the fact of the sheet cooling so quickly loosens most of the parts, then a gentle flex of the plate and they fall off.

So, do you or do you not?

... I can pull it off literally RIGHT after a print finishes, and within seconds it is cool to the touch and the part is off the bed and I am ready to print again (Although I usually use a different plate because I have several ready to go. )

...Also I have never had a part come off that is soft to the touch.... Like ever... Unless it is super super thin and only a few layers high lol.

If you haven't had a part soft immediately after printing then you are lucky or you don't do ABS very much.

I never did get a reply back from metalsupermarkets.com for my plate and I have to say they were the dumbest metal shop I have ever talked to since at least the Internet came to be.

[jfkansas]

That's just it, I don't have to touch the parts lol. Just the fact of the sheet cooling so quickly loosens most of the parts, then a gentle flex of the plate and they fall off.

Also I have never had a part come off that is soft to the touch.... Like ever... Unless it is super super thin and only a few layers high lol.

It is actually the part cooling/shrinking that makes it pop off the plate, not the plate cooling... I've used buildtak, problem is it either works too good, or not good enough. It also depends on the type of parts. Smaller parts with a small footprint to the build plate are pretty easy to remove. But if you get a 6" x 6" flat bottom stuck to buildtak it can be a great pain to remove.

[cncartist]

Does anyone have good instructions on how to install the glass bed plate corner holder with screws? I assume they don't use the stock screws and I have M3 wingnuts, M3x8, M3x12, and M3x16 screws on hand.

I also have a creaking sound on part of the Y axis which sounds like it is coming from the back right corner. I haven't found the cause yet. Did you manage to fix this?

g.gregory,
I have performed the fix per Qidi's instructions and have not seen an improvement yet. I have reached out to them again and will await their response as the creaking is getting quite bothersome but the prints are still churning out.

[DarkAlchemist]

Does anyone have good instructions on how to install the glass bed plate corner holder with screws? I assume they don't use the stock screws and I have M3 wingnuts, M3x8, M3x12, and M3x16 screws on hand.




g.gregory,
I have performed the fix per Qidi's instructions and have not seen an improvement yet. I have reached out to them again and will await their response as the creaking is getting quite bothersome but the prints are still churning out.

Have a video, or know of one, with this noise/creaking sound? Creaking sounds are not a good sign unless it is a wooden frame then I can see it happening if something is flexing (like a wooden boat/ship).

[bluemeane]

So, do you or do you not?If you haven't had a part soft immediately after printing then you are lucky or you don't do ABS very much.I never did get a reply back from metalsupermarkets.com for my plate and I have to say they were the dumbest metal shop I have ever talked to since at least the Internet came to be.

'Pull off' as in remove I rarely have to touch anything as I said the cooling and the plate quickly (shrinkage) and then flexing and the parts fall off. And I print about half and half ABS and PLA. Must just be lucky, or by the time I touch them they have cooled off enough to be firm. I also have the bed slowly drop down in 5 degree increments to 80 after the layer 100 on most prints

[DarkAlchemist]

'Pull off' as in remove I rarely have to touch anything as I said the cooling and the plate quickly (shrinkage) and then flexing and the parts fall off. And I print about half and half ABS and PLA. Must just be lucky, or by the time I touch them they have cooled off enough to be firm. I also have the bed slowly drop down in 5 degree increments to 80 after the layer 100 on most prints

Ahhhh, see when I print ABS I stick it to 110c and leave it at 110c else it comes off. I wish I had a way to lower the temp gradually but not even S3D does that easily (you would think I wouldn't have to have a lot of profiles for such an easy task in S3D) as I always wanted a way to tell these slicers to lower the temp from layer 1 to say layer 5 or 7 gradually not all of a sudden at Z layer. I only lower the temp on PLA as I start at 60c and lower to 50c.

On the bed is that Kapton I see on it? I will McMaster a 6x9 glass (or 8x10 using the mod though if I did that I would attach a thin layer of Aluminum as a heat spreader so edge to edge gets warm).

While I am thinking about all of this I sure wish these slicers allowed us to get the bed to X temp and wait X amount of time before continuing that way the temps are more uniform when the print actually starts.

[cncartist]

Have a video, or know of one, with this noise/creaking sound? Creaking sounds are not a good sign unless it is a wooden frame then I can see it happening if something is flexing (like a wooden boat/ship).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3WUVIoRvM4