Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[DarkAlchemist]

I updated the scripts in that thread to default VREFs to 70.

Add a caveat, if you would, that 70 may not be exactly enough in some setups. That 127 I was very surprised at but, as I said so much earlier, with the Mightyboard the Vref seems to be black magic and voodoo whereas on Marlin/Ramps world it is precisely known with a simple formula (even known with a Smoothieware or Due versions). Again, too detached like this is a very bad thing.

[KludgeGuru]

Add a caveat, if you would, that 70 may not be exactly enough in some setups. That 127 I was very surprised at but, as I said so much earlier, with the Mightyboard the Vref seems to be black magic and voodoo whereas on Marlin/Ramps world it is precisely known with a simple formula (even known with a Smoothieware or Due versions). Again, too detached like this is a very bad thing.

I changed the defaults to 80 which will probably be safer on the high side for those that don't know or care what the VREFs are doing.

[DarkAlchemist]

I changed the defaults to 80 which will probably be safer on the high side for those that don't know or care what the VREFs are doing.

Perfect and that was going to be my next suggestion for those people (we used to call them script kiddies who do not understand, nor care to, and just plug in random scripts).

[vbx]

My Left EXTRUDER keeps clogging. What's causing this?

[JimHs1]

Here's my ugly ABS calibration cube. The extrusion temp. was 230°C, the bed was 110°C, the feed rate 60, travel feed rate 100. 100% infill, as a calibration cube should be. My guess is that it might be cooling down too fast.

So that's your calibration cube when printing at 100%. How often do you really print at 100% infill? I would think that you would want to calibrate at the way you normally print, i.e., at the infill percent you print at.

[wermy]

Hey guys! Just got my QIDI last week and have been playing around with it. I can get pretty decent results out of PLA but am having an issue with ABS. I'm printing at 230C on the extruder and 110C on the stock bed, with gluestick. Adhesion doesn't seem to be the issue. Basically on wall-like structures, on the backside I always get some deformities in the wall.

I thought maybe the issue was a bent rod I noticed in the back of the printer, but QIDI support insists this rod will not affect print quality (it's the rod in the back, on top). Here is a video of it where you can see it going up and down as it prints:
https://youtu.be/wSiN_kIiowo

Here is the front-side of a test cube in Hatchbox ABS, which looks alright:


And here it is from the back, where the issue shows up every time:


I'd appreciate any input or ideas!

[beano_2278]

Guys, si i too purchased the Qidi printer recently and had a rather large issue, however thanks to the fantastic support from Qidi i am now up and running and have achieved some great prints in both ABS and PLA, today i tried using both extruders, the right one with PLA and the left one with PVA, the idea here was to support supports and rafts in PVA to make it easier to remove (ie. soak in water), however i am getting two issues, the first is that when the printer switches between nozzles to print the item or supports the print head pauses for 3 seconds each time which cause the nozzles to head up the area it is paused over and therefore distorts the print.

The second issue i am having is that the left nozzle keeps stopping extruding PVA, you know when its getting close to stopping as the PVA starts togged very 'bitty' before it finally stops (i can unload and reload the PVA without issues.

I'm printing the PLA @ 220, the PVA i've tried at 200 and 220 (it says on the spool to use 190-220).

I've done the standard mods - Glass bed with Hairspray.

Any advice would be a great help.

One other thing i have noticed is that the left extruder starts to click a little.

[Syd_Khaos]

So get this...

Awhile back I got some material from MakerGeeks, it included a spool of ABS called 'It's a Beaut' Brown'...a very wonderful chocolate shade of brown. I have since used the entire spool..but during its use I came across 2 sections with some discoloration. These were small runs, each about 4 meters or so (totaling maybe 10grams all together) that were a much lighter shade of brown.

I didn't care to much, I was printing prototypes during both segments of discoloration, so no big deal ya.
However I did take pictures and contacted MakerGeeks. This was done more to call it to their attention, and make sure it was a manufacturing mistake and not something I did to damage the material. I explained I was still more than happy with the purchase, and just wanting them to be aware of it.

They have INSISTED on sending me a full spool of material to replace the brown. Not only that but gave me choice of color.

If you live in the US and your not getting your material from MakerGeeks you may wanna give them a second look.

[jfkansas]

So that's your calibration cube when printing at 100%. How often do you really print at 100% infill? I would think that you would want to calibrate at the way you normally print, i.e., at the infill percent you print at.

The purpose of a cube is not to calibrate, but to test for filament buildup from over extrusion. If you do it at less infill than 100 then you will throw off the test.

[JSensebe]

The purpose of a cube is not to calibrate, but to test for filament buildup from over extrusion. If you do it at less infill than 100 then you will throw off the test.

Well, technically, it is for calibration, just not necessarily for dimensional accuracy.

Anyway, I found my build plate wasn't as level as I thought it was, so I re-leveled it and tried again, with similar results. I think the fans are cooling things down too much. Though I'm set to 230°, when the fans come on, the extruder struggles to keep 220°. I guess I either have to disable the fans or raise the extruder temperature to compensate. I'll hack the G-code and make a third attempt later.