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  1. #1521
    Student
    Join Date
    May 2016
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    21
    This machine just clogged on me. I found the problem but I can't unclog it. Anyone? I heated the left extruder and removed what I could but there is a good chunk stuck in the hole.

  2. #1522
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Omaha
    Posts
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    Add rcleav on Thingiverse
    I heat a small drill bit up and push it through.

  3. #1523
    Anyone know what vref to run the X and Y at? Z is at 40 and X, Y, A, B are all at 118 and I touched the X motor and it burnt me (it almost blistered me and now my hand is sore).

    Anyone know?

  4. #1524
    Student
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    21
    Now the stupid right extruder will not unload the damn filament. This printer is GARBAGE!

    Support tells me to use "sharp object" to remove clog. LOL. that ain't working.



    Gonna open a dispute with aliexpress and file a complaint with my Credit Card Company.

    Right extruder won't let me unload even after it says to begin unloading.
    https://youtu.be/i05lOK5wMZg
    Last edited by vbx; 05-15-2016 at 11:06 PM.

  5. #1525
    Anyone know why my printer will not move along the x-axis when i start a print?

    I'm printing a small headphone amplifier case with a raft and when it starts to print the x-axis doesn't seem to work, however what is strange is that after it prints about 10-15% of the raft it then miraculously does work so you end up with a lot of plastic along the y-axis and then it starts to prints the rest of the raft perfectly, i've checked the motor is free and it appears to be working and x-axis jog works fine.

    Another thing i have noticed which i don't know if it's a clue or now but i home the axes before i start to print and sometimes it does not move over the print bed but rather prints over thin air on the right side of the printer.

    Cheers

    Steve

  6. #1526
    Student
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    35
    Quote Originally Posted by cncartist View Post
    I'm using glue stick for adhesion on the "blue sticker" build plate, what are you using for adhesion? In the 3 or 4 blue stickers I've been through, they have all been properly bonded to the bed and didn't have any issues rising. I do notice the sticker acts differently over the mounting holes, but the glue stick between prints fixes that issue in my experience and I'm sure a glass build plate/hairspray combo would correct that.
    I used a glue stick for adhesion. The bubble is at the center of the plate. I plan on heating the bed tonsee if I can then flatten the bubble.

  7. #1527
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    Oct 2015
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    Omaha
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    Quote Originally Posted by vbx View Post
    Now the stupid right extruder will not unload the damn filament. This printer is GARBAGE!

    Support tells me to use "sharp object" to remove clog. LOL. that ain't working.



    Gonna open a dispute with aliexpress and file a complaint with my Credit Card Company.

    Right extruder won't let me unload even after it says to begin unloading.
    https://youtu.be/i05lOK5wMZg
    This not a problem with the printer. All 3D Printers can and will do this.
    It's a cliche but 3D printers are not toasters and take significant care and maintenance.

    First what type of filament are you using?

    Since you have it apart clear the clog by removing the nozzle and PTFE tube from the hot block. With a small drill bit heated to glowing push it through the tube and then the PTFE Tube to clear them. You may need to heat up the nozzle and use something around .03mm or smaller to clear it. I use a Steel Guitar string .010.
    When I change filament I first use load and let it extrude some filament. Then stop the load and goto unload right away while still hot and unload it. I very rarely have a jam.

  8. #1528
    Student
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    San Francisco CA
    Posts
    12
    I had success printing a test print. Very happy with Qidi machine and test print quality.
    Last edited by pstephana; 05-17-2016 at 01:02 AM.

  9. #1529
    See, this is what is wrong with the mightyboard versus any of the ones the RepRap machines use because you are so detached that no one easily knows what the Vrefs should be unlike in something like Marlin that is extremely well documented. I can tell you 118 is horribly wrong as a Vref if the motor will almost blister you when you touch it after 2 hours of printing.

    To calculate the current on a Stepstick, A = VREF / (8 * RS). For a standard stepstick, RS is the rating of the Sense Resistor = 0.2ohm. So A = VREF / 1.6 and I normally run mine around 300-550ma (Z has two motors on it so requires more current) but with the Mightyboard wth does a Vref of 118 mean?

    Digging around the Google-sphere I found the RS is probably 10k ohm so 118/(8*10000)=118/80000=gibberish as the value is far too low and the motors are far too hot for that answer to be correct.

  10. #1530
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    907
    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    SOOOO.... QIDI wtf.... Not a drop of Threadlocker in the whole machine but they Super Glue the belts into the Xends... Uggg.

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