Stream of I3V 12" Build Consciousness

[lakester]

Yah..., 225 is working very nicely. I haven't tried 220 yet..., mostly since I notice on those occasions when the parts cooling fan kicks on, it really drops the HE temp. The HE eventually catches back up..., but the effect is much less pronounced at the higher (too high) temps.

While working on an adapter for some vac cleaner parts, I had a print failure when I think slic3r detected a bridge in a small, low mass region, kicked on the fan, and essentially destroyed that part of the print cuz things got too cool. Sure..., some tuning can fix that..., but I think 225 is probably a good lower limit.

ive been one of those people that has largely liked ABS much more than PLA for over a year now. I think 250c is WAYYYYY too hot for most anything ABS. I print at 230, even down to 225 depending on filament color, brand etc.
250 creates a molten liquid way less viscous than it should be... stick with the LOWEST possible temp you can.

[lakester]

Before I bought the Makerfarm kit, I made myself make a list of the things I would use the printer for, above and beyond printing printer parts or weird vases.

I can check off the first item on the list!

20150527_193630.jpg

I hated the attachments that came with my current Panasonic vacuum cleaner.

The old Hoover attachments are a buh-zillion times better.

Thus, the Panasonic-Hoover vacuum attachment adapter was born.

This was a worthwhile little project for a couple of reasons:

It made me think a bit regarding the limitations of the material and FDM. There was a compromise between simplicity and having the thing I thought I really wanted. I really wanted a locking tab over the peg on the attachment, but that required a material flex in a fashion that it's usage basically didn't permit. I could have done it with two parts..., but I wanted a one part solution.

So..., I learned a bit more about FreeCAD. It still is a kind of buggy proposition, but it is definitely useful for certain things. Anyways, employing a taper (hence, using lofting) on the Hoover end solved the problem.

This was my first successful use of cold acetone vapor smoothing. For "utility" purposes, I'm quite happy.

I was sorta bemused when I checked out thingiverse for vacuum cleaner stuff. Jeez..., it's a whole sub-cult! The Pana-Hoov adapter will be my first contrib to thingiverse.

Finally..., while something like this is unbelievably mundane, I really feel that little things like this can serve two purposes regarding the notion of 3d printing for the masses: first, simple engagement with and appreciation of the things you use every day. second, it's a small step towards personal resiliency and ability.

It's the little things.

[Hankus]

Well done. I need to read more about the cold acetone vapor smoothing. Your adapter looks very good.

[lakester]

Thx! This was the method I used:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvCE...ature=youtu.be

8 magnets are fine...

Oh..., I think the vid says use 4oz of acetone when using a 1ga container. Waaaaaaay too much. Use just enough to roll around in the can to get all the paper towels thoroughly wetted, but not dripping soaked.

Well done. I need to read more about the cold acetone vapor smoothing. Your adapter looks very good.

[lakester]

I'm nearing time for a re-build of my Y-bed. Have encountered warping/sagging that is just starting to become an issue (yup..., have the later bed w/ the stiffeners).

There are a couple of other mods I would like to make..., and what it adds up to is that if I take the printer down to do everything, it would also be a good time to get ABL working, IF I actually want it.

Unless some other problem is interfering somehow, manual bed-leveling is neither that frequent, nor that troublesome to accomplish.

Per Roxy's comments in another thread, I also just found out that Z leveling is enabled for the entire print..., which means the Z steppers get an unknown amount more busy during a print..., and if that has a performance/speed impact..., well..., I wouldn't like that. The manual leveling is nice in that I know the Z steppers are only being used when they absolutely need to be.

But ABL is "cool"..., and it might just be "cool" enough to do if I could bypass the flippy-servo-switchy-thingy. I.e., I'd like to go with the inductive sensor. While there is a practical hardware problem related to a non-metallic table, eliminating the servo and associated Marlin/RUMBA fiddling is attractive.

I like printing on a glass bed. I want to keep that. I will be building a modified version of the current MF wood 12" table, mostly for the purpose of fixing the sagging problem. Buuut..., it is an opportunity to give some thought as to how to incorporate metal leveling targets into the bed, while retaining the glass top. I may just end up going the metallic tape target route. If I use the right tape, its adhesive shouldn't be too susceptible to the occasional washing of the glass.

IF I lived in the Bay Area again, I might consider figuring out how to build an aluminum bed..., and sorta kill two birds with one stone, once and for all. Buuut, I don't..., and so access to misc parts and materials and stuff is a fair bit more difficult where I am. Getting the machining done and tracking down just the right everything is too much hassle ATM.

Think'n out loud...

[voodoo28]

Here's food for thought..
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:822472

I'm nearing time for a re-build of my Y-bed. Have encountered warping/sagging that is just starting to become an issue (yup..., have the later bed w/ the stiffeners).

There are a couple of other mods I would like to make..., and what it adds up to is that if I take the printer down to do everything, it would also be a good time to get ABL working, IF I actually want it.

Unless some other problem is interfering somehow, manual bed-leveling is neither that frequent, nor that troublesome to accomplish.

Per Roxy's comments in another thread, I also just found out that Z leveling is enabled for the entire print..., which means the Z steppers get an unknown amount more busy during a print..., and if that has a performance/speed impact..., well..., I wouldn't like that. The manual leveling is nice in that I know the Z steppers are only being used when they absolutely need to be.

But ABL is "cool"..., and it might just be "cool" enough to do if I could bypass the flippy-servo-switchy-thingy. I.e., I'd like to go with the inductive sensor. While there is a practical hardware problem related to a non-metallic table, eliminating the servo and associated Marlin/RUMBA fiddling is attractive.

I like printing on a glass bed. I want to keep that. I will be building a modified version of the current MF wood 12" table, mostly for the purpose of fixing the sagging problem. Buuut..., it is an opportunity to give some thought as to how to incorporate metal leveling targets into the bed, while retaining the glass top. I may just end up going the metallic tape target route. If I use the right tape, its adhesive shouldn't be too susceptible to the occasional washing of the glass.

IF I lived in the Bay Area again, I might consider figuring out how to build an aluminum bed..., and sorta kill two birds with one stone, once and for all. Buuut, I don't..., and so access to misc parts and materials and stuff is a fair bit more difficult where I am. Getting the machining done and tracking down just the right everything is too much hassle ATM.

Think'n out loud...

[lakester]

Thx. Added to "My Collections".

Here's food for thought..
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:822472

[voodoo28]

I already have the probe on hand..just havent had time to mess with the setup..

Thx. Added to "My Collections".

[lakester]

Hmm.

Have been printing the various pieces involved with the next set of updates to the printer.

ABS is being difficult.

I THINK the residual problem is one of the ones the update will try to fix, but the parts I'm printing to fix it are going to have some of the problems..., they will hopefully fix.

I print ABS at anywhere between 225 and 235..., keeping the HB at 110 (with a few exceptions).

The problem is that for some things, e.g. Greg's extruder block, the first 1 or two layers tend to have delamination issues. The same part when printed at 250 doesn't have that particular problem (it has other problems).

(Note: Just occurred to me that I'm seeing my worst results on humid days...)

So as it turns out, I'll end up using parts printed at varying temperatures, trading off between either sagging, or delam where feasible. FWIW..., I'm gonna end up using the first extruder block I printed, which was done at 250 w/ incremental drop in HB temp. It has warping and small sagging issues, but they don't seem to matter much, and no delamination at all.

I'm HOPING that when the new HE cooling fan is in place, the cooler ABS temps will become more generally practical, since there will no longer be air being blown down on the first layer.

[sniffle]

Hmm.

Have been printing the various pieces involved with the next set of updates to the printer.

ABS is being difficult.

I THINK the residual problem is one of the ones the update will try to fix, but the parts I'm printing to fix it are going to have some of the problems..., they will hopefully fix.

I print ABS at anywhere between 225 and 235..., keeping the HB at 110 (with a few exceptions).

The problem is that for some things, e.g. Greg's extruder block, the first 1 or two layers tend to have delamination issues. The same part when printed at 250 doesn't have that particular problem (it has other problems).

(Note: Just occurred to me that I'm seeing my worst results on humid days...)

So as it turns out, I'll end up using parts printed at varying temperatures, trading off between either sagging, or delam where feasible. FWIW..., I'm gonna end up using the first extruder block I printed, which was done at 250 w/ incremental drop in HB temp. It has warping and small sagging issues, but they don't seem to matter much, and no delamination at all.

I'm HOPING that when the new HE cooling fan is in place, the cooler ABS temps will become more generally practical, since there will no longer be air being blown down on the first layer.

you can initially flip[ the fan over and have it draw air through the HE fins instead of blow air through them... it helps quite a bit, quick simple and works... temps arent effected... at least as far as everyone that has tried it is concerned