Itty Bitty Double FLEX Extruder

[Bredmond]

Quick question about the height adjustment process.

In the instructions on Clough42's website, it says to run G28 (autohome), then G29, and then move the nozzle to the center of the bed and adjust the height and enter any z offset adjustement.

When I have been adjusting the height I have been doing it from where the carriage is at the end of the G29 process. Would this be causing issues with inconsistent height problems?

I am seeing problems lots of issues (way more than I was having with my stock Hexagon hot end setup) with first layer height. Sometimes it is so close to the bed no plastic will extrude, other times the nozzle starts hitting on previously deposited plastic.

Any suggestions on what else might be affecting the height that I should be looking at?

Thanks,
Bill

[clough42]

Quick question about the height adjustment process.

In the instructions on Clough42's website, it says to run G28 (autohome), then G29, and then move the nozzle to the center of the bed and adjust the height and enter any z offset adjustement.

When I have been adjusting the height I have been doing it from where the carriage is at the end of the G29 process. Would this be causing issues with inconsistent height problems?

I am seeing problems lots of issues (way more than I was having with my stock Hexagon hot end setup) with first layer height. Sometimes it is so close to the bed no plastic will extrude, other times the nozzle starts hitting on previously deposited plastic.

Any suggestions on what else might be affecting the height that I should be looking at?

Thanks,
Bill

If your bed is flat, the place you test shouldn't matter. The bed isn't perfectly fiat, of course, so testing where you'll print is a good idea.

I have recently been struggling with the wood bed mount warping as the hot bed warms up and the heat soaks into the wood on my i3. I was chasing what I thought was extrusion problems and it turned out to be a Z height stability problem.

I have been printing with my first layer the same height as the others (.2mm) because the leveling has worked so well, but if you're having trouble, you can try a thicker first layer, as is usual for RepRap.

[rcdave]

I have printed the alignment cube, and it's clear I have some ooze reduction work to do. But after printing, I realized that I didn't have the objects completely lined up on slic3r. isn't there a to align the objects in slicer?

[clough42]

I have printed the alignment cube, and it's clear I have some ooze reduction work to do. But after printing, I realized that I didn't have the objects completely lined up on slic3r. isn't there a to align the objects in slicer?

How this works depends on which version of Slic3r you're using. Older versions have a menu item to create a multi-material AMF.XML file from a set of STL files. Newer versions of Slic3r allow you to load one of your STLs, right-click on the object and select Properties. This dialog allows you to load additional STL files and assign them to particular extruders.

The tool assumes that all of the STLs for a multi-material object are already aligned in the same internal coordinate system.

You still need to calibrate your printer so you can tell Slic3r the relative positions of your extruder nozzles. I have more detail here:

http://clough42.com/go/double-extruder-calibration

James

[rcdave]

I am printing the AMF version and my extruders are within a hundredth of a millimeter, and I think that's acceptable. But I am also getting a hump in the middle of the part that isn't so good. the hump in nearly 2x the rest of the part. I wasn't concerned until I noticed it in other prints. My gcode prints the perimeters first and then the infill which is a single line. there is less gap than the bead it is trying to put down and it ends up on top of the perimiters, or atleast that's my current theory. am I flowing too much plastic. are my slic3r setting wrong?
IMG_6647.jpgIMG_6643.jpg

[clough42]

I am printing the AMF version and my extruders are within a hundredth of a millimeter, and I think that's acceptable. But I am also getting a hump in the middle of the part that isn't so good. the hump in nearly 2x the rest of the part. I wasn't concerned until I noticed it in other prints. My gcode prints the perimeters first and then the infill which is a single line. there is less gap than the bead it is trying to put down and it ends up on top of the perimiters, or atleast that's my current theory. am I flowing too much plastic. are my slic3r setting wrong?
IMG_6647.jpgIMG_6643.jpg

Huh. I haven't ever seen anything like that. It's kind of hard fromn the photos to tell exactly what's happening. Usually, you don't see the plastic pile up above the nozzle height like that. It usually gets squished down and comes out the sides. For it to pile up above the other layers, usually the nozzle has to move up.

[svmagnum]

I have 12" Makerbot I3V with Rumba board and graphical display.
Does anyone have same combination and can share their firmware for the itty double extruder?
I am noob when it comes to modifying the software so need your help please.

[kd7eir]

Here on the left is a picture of a printed 2mm washer before I switched to the itty bitty dual flex, and one the right after I switched. Any idea what's going on? ALL of my prints are coming out like this now. I uploaded the firmware, followed by M502 and M500. I printed a servo spacer and it came out 1/4" thick!

[kd7eir]

OK, lowering the extrusion multiplier is making a huge difference. I have used an extrusion multiplier of .90 in S3D forever and gotten great results. I'm down to .50 and getting ready to go a bit lower yet to get the right print.

[clough42]

OK, lowering the extrusion multiplier is making a huge difference. I have used an extrusion multiplier of .90 in S3D forever and gotten great results. I'm down to .50 and getting ready to go a bit lower yet to get the right print.

I responded in your other thread as well. Check your microstep settings. The 615 value assumes you're running 1/16 microsteps. If you have a RAMPS board, make sure you have all three jumpers installed under the driver.