That looks like a raft, not under extrusion.
Type: Posts; User: Mjolinor
That looks like a raft, not under extrusion.
If, when they are fully tight, you still have not got enough clearance then most people stick a bit of plastic on the Z switch behind the table so that it does not go as high before it operates..
if it is running the wrong way and not smoothly then it is a broken wire or a faulty stepper driver board.
Take the extruder off the stepper motor and load filament on the menu, watch the stepper motor is what I meant.
Load filament with it in bits and watch the stepper doing whatever it does. If that turns smoothly then it is down to heaters and/or plastic but if that dithers and vibrates it is a broken wire or...
It sounds as though it may be one of the four wires to the stepper broken.
Who knows, look at the Gcode and see if it makes sense.
I am probably not understanding what you have written
I read it as an 8 inch long thing that starts printing 2 inches from the left side printing to the right for six inches then going back and...
It should not be a problem. I suspect your bed is either not level or not flat.
You can remove and replace or you can just patch it. Do not be enthusiastic and fool yourself into thinking it is better with the widest tape you can. If you buy the really wide tape it is an...
It is extremely unlikely to be different steps per rev they are almost universally 1.8 degrees, 200 steps per rev.
What will be different is the impedance so power requirement will be different...
The timing is a real bitch and not consistent for different machines.
It should do if it has a Mightyboard in there, take a look. Sailfish is much better.
It's really a whole complicated can of worms that area of the printer. Newer heat tubes have a 20mm length of 3mm OD - 2mm ID PTFE tube up them. This is a vast improvement on solid stainless ones but...
The tape and insulation do not really stop the heat going upwards over much, it is to stop radiation from heating the print and the aluminium bar. Radiation is omnidirectional.
It is likely that it is not assembled correctly if the nozzle is coming lose,
When assembling you should tighten the nozzle before the heat tube is screwed in and then the heat tube tightens...
It probably also has heat resistant material under the Kapton tape. It is to reduce radiated heat, not really in order to keep the head warm, more to stop the hot head melting your print.
My extruders ticked, much dismantlement later with much cleaning and reassembly and it still ticked. I then noticed that it only ticked in the Y axis direction and it turned out to be loose ends on...