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X endstop cable failure. Common.

Yep, for the money they are pretty solid. The FFCP is based off of one of the best printers Makerbot ever made.

There are a few things you should do right off the bat.




Thread lock all...

are those bare gaps between the extrusions? If yes under extruding. But if they aren't bare gaps then you are over extruding which means too much plastic and it bulges up. Generally with a good bed...

Yes, definitely. I wouldn't touch the Z axis lead screw until you have the upgraded z stage and guide rods.

Can you post a pic of the insides of your printer? Based on the plug style I am guessing Creator X which came with a plastic platform and 8mm z guide rods. The Creator Pros have 10mm guide rods and a...

7774

If you ever get a chance to do it again this is what mine looks like. Notice that the + and - are flipped. The plug on the main board is also flipped. So if you wire the build plate as it is...

That's 7 amps max, probably at room temp. We run the Build plates for many straight hours at 200F+ degrees. Don't skimp on power connections. The Main power input is way under rated also. That's why...

20g is iffy 16g is better. Where is your data on the 11 amps for that plug? They are more like 5 amps continuous in a heated situation like that.

No don't bother soldering the pin back onto to board. You will see 2 pads for + and 2 for -. The bigger wire can span those 2 pads. I don't think you need a new board, a new wiring harness is just...

Yes the newer ones have 2 wire for power, but the wiring and plug still isn't big enough for the power draw.

Yep thats whats happening, too much power for that plug. It is better to direct solder 16g wires to the heater board and us a high amp plug before doing anything else.

There is also what is known...

The heating elements are held in place by a set screw. It is covered up by the insulation. You don't have to fully take the insulation off to get to it. Just probe around a little centered over the...

Makerware is ok. The newest 3.7 has a little better profile editor. Start with default standard settings and see how things come out. Measure your filament down to .01mm and input that value....

Calibrate height? Or extrusion amount?

Is the printer fully enclosed? If not try that.

Cables usually. They aren't flex rated and can break easily.

Try some "helper discs" that you place at the corners to give more flat surface area. These are about 1mm high and round and can easily be trimmed off. S3d can be configured to print a Brim at 0mm...

Ya, but it is better with than without. Without the cooling bar would heat up to 400 degrees easily over time. With the insulation it only gets to about 250-300 which is far under the melting point...

Like another has mentioned it is to insulate the heating block so heat doesn't radiate up as much and overheat the cooling bar. Heat rises so it isn't as much for keeping the heat off the printed...

I think it depends on the machine and how many extruders are installed. If it is the Replicator 2 with single print head the amount of mass to move is about half that of a dual print head. There are...

Ya proftweak has more settings than you will know what to do with. The Makerware defaults are safe middle of the road settings. The good thing about Proftweak is there is a direct link to a makerware...

You need Proftweak for makerware, you can set the default print head in there. 0 for right, 1 for left. Default is the right extruder.

To clean that blockage you will need to disassemble the...

Not sure what a 2x v8 is. Recent models from Flashforge are Creator, Creator X, Dreamer and Creator Pro.

Depends on which model you have. :-)

I use Replicator Single since I mostly use the right extruder. It just removes a lot of the options in the config popup.

Check fuses maybe? Check wiring. Make sure all the screws holding the wires into the plugs are nice and tight. Jiggle all the plugs. Smell around and see if anything smells burnt.