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1.75 inside diameter, and 3mm outside diameter for the PTFE tubing.

I realize we don't have the same model, but it seems to be similar issues. Had a problem with the motor wires breaking, perhaps its that? I have a dual extruder and changed the wires from the second...

The filament I'm using I've been running for months, it is getting toward the tail end of the roll though. As far as heat is concerned I have no accurate way to measure it. I'll go pick up a laser...

A bit delayed, but I appreciate your response. I've failed to get it working thus far. The motor runs fine, the PTFE tubing has been replaced, the metal parts of the hot end have been swapped/cleaned...

While I realize this isn't the most worthwhile answer: using a caliper and a little trial and error this would be fairly easy to model in something like Tinkercad.
There's also this, which may be a...

Not only have I changed the nozzle, but I also changed the liner.
On the liner, how far in should it be? should it be seated inside the nozzle? Or further up the tube? Also, the nozzle and the...

Ok, I've got the feeder sorted. Now it hits the hot-end starts to extrude and begins clicking. Like it can't push the filament through fast enough. The temp sensor is reading 230c, but the amount of...

Update: Now when I try to unload the filament, it feels like the motor is going in the wrong direction. Keeps clicking, and I can't pull it out.

After having some seemingly random issues, I decided it was time to take the extruder I was using apart and clean it. Removal and disassembly went well, but upon trying to load filament, I'm greeted...

I would leave that area alone. Kapton won't do much to dissipate the heat, and while it may slow the heat process down a bit it doesn't take up much room. Using silicone transfer pads takes up quite...

Between my plate and heater I haven't Kapton, or anything else for that matter.
Mine goes (from top to bottom):
Glass
Silicone pad (makes the glass hard to remove, but works well especially with...

I didn't purchase a 2560 board. There wasn't a close enough drop in replacement. That being said, it was still quite a bit of work so if you can pick one up I would suggest it.

This is a good idea. Having my niece and nephew in the house occasionally, I think I'll put one of those keyed switches on it, but I'll definitely be moving it to the front.

It did, and I've determined the cause, it was (mostly) my fault.

Sounds good, thank you. Any modifications I do before adding a fresh board?

I see them online (eBay) for fairly cheap, does anyone have a suggestion as to where to pick one up? Or should I try my luck on eBay?

I've got a CTC Dual, originally purchased on eBay, and I'm...

I've already worked out the issue, I was simply explaining what the setting was. This offset being set to 0 is a common problem upgrading to Sailfish in CTC printers. If you do a little googling,...

It's the tool head offset (For those wondering I mean the distance between the extruders) . When I updated to Sailfish, all of my home axis remained, but my tool head offset had been set to 0, so...

IIRC == If I Recall Correctly.

What software are you using?
If you're using Makerware, I would try the same print in ReplicatorG to see if it changes. RepG is terrible software, but IMHO it's been better than Makerware....

IIRC it was 34mm (which changed to 33.96mm when the printer reset.)

I've changed to glass, using silicone to hold it in place, to offset my warped build plate. I've had to add a spacer as expected, on the Z-Axis, to stop the glass and extruder from colliding. I'm...

Good to know, thank you.

I"m having this issue with the bed leveling, it wasn't the nuts in my case, but the armature that holds the bed. When tightening or loosening the wing nuts, the armature is flexing causing the bed to...

If you look at the bottom of the heated bed, near the connector pins, it should read the pinout. Mine says it's 24v, but it also has a 5v input as well (I assume this is for the thermistor?) Check...