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No, I don't have a NEMA 17 version.
It would be possible to design one, but the overall dimensions of the extruder block would have to change to provide clearance between the base and the idlers for the larger motors. The larger motors would also change the frame clearance and belt lengths. I haven't looked into it.
Ok thanks.
hey on a side note anyone want a completed solidworks model for the hexagon hotend.
i was bored and i just got my 2nd one in the mail today..
i had to make a model to i can tool path it at work and spit them out on the little cnc lathe that we never seam to use.
and any clues on how to get the heat break out ? it's the only part i can't seam to get out even after hitting it with a torch (and yes i took the set screw out)
Attachment 3827
I'm remodeling clough42's Itty Bitty Double Extruder to work with E3D v6 hotends only because i seen a few users that wished more people made E3D add-on's for makerfarm printers
Hi All
Have printed the main extruder block. It came out pretty well.
I assume we're meant to drill through the bottom where the filament comes out to allow it to go into the hot end.
Maybe I should have also printed it with support (or print cooling) as the 2 recessed areas where the hot ends go aren't so flat due to the bridging it had to do.
Has anyone else had a go and printing this yet?
I used 1.75mm ABS at .2mm layer height.
'TechMasterJoe' thanks for the model. Nice.
'lemming' it printed really well for me too. 'clough42' designed it to print without support. Mine came out really well and I don't remember that I had to drill out the bottom. What I did find though was that the inside of the filament path was not very smooth. I took a 1 foot piece of all-thread (1//8") and ran it up and down the channels to polish them out. I went back and forth a lot until the threads had cut a nice smooth channel. I've had no problems printing.
Yes, you need to cut out the support bridging across the bottom of the filament channel. I usually use an X-Acto knife. I just insert the tip into the center hole and sweep around the hole to clean it out. If you have a print cooling fan, enable it when printing bridges, and those strings across the bottom of the channel should tighten up and make a nice, flat platform. If your printer can't do this, you'll probably need to use support. Be careful, though. You don't want to be generating support inside the filament channel.
RobH2 has reported that the inside of the filament channel didn't come out clean for him. I haven't seen his prints, so I don't know exactly what he's seeing. The filament channels are octagonal, to try to improve dimensional stability over round holes, and they print cleanly on my printer. The filament slides through cleanly for me with no cleanup.
Everyone needs one of theses.
Attachment 3830
What is it? The picture is too small for me to see it clearly.
Thanks for the tips
I cleaned out that area by scraping a large flat end screwdriver in their and now it's pretty flat.
When I cleaned out the filament hole, I ended up putting a little bevel on it. I hope it won't negatively affect it.
The filament moves pretty freely through both holes with just a small amount of resistance. Is that fine, or do I need to touch it up with something?
BTW. Given that I'm about to go to the time and expense of implementing dual extrusion, is their any benefit of changing over from 1.75mm to 3mm filament?
Great community - appreciate all of the help
Yea, maybe it was blobby inside or some other issue. The outside looked beautiful so I expected the inside to be the same. Could be just a one-time malfunction on my end. When I put filament it the first time it just snagged a bit. So, I reemed it with the all-thread and then it was smooth as glass. Who knows. Bottom line, the model 'clough42' built is a very clean file. I'm sure my issue was not related to the model but to the printer.
BTW, what is that red handled thing that we all need?
The red handle thing is as I call it a whirlegig deburr tool. It will shave time off your tasks so you can spend time with the misses. Lol.
here is the hotend model
https://grabcad.com/library/hexagon-hotend-1
if anyone wants it
Got it too Joe. Looks great. I created a rough one for major dimensions to work with Itty Bitty but it's nice to have a full model. Thanks.
It's a deburring tool. Sometimes also called an edge breaker.
http://www.amazon.com/SHAVIV-151-900...deburring+tool
Yep, figured it out and coincidentally, that's exactly what I ordered 3 hours ago.
http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ll=1#post38812
made a extreme hotbed switching board if anyone is interested..
20$ shipped with 6ft of 10ga ultra flex silicone cable and 3pairs of XT60 connectors
.052v drop at 60amps .03 at 30amps opto-isolated
ATX brain still in the works
How about this one instead? Says it is for close work and does not have the M extender.
http://www.amazon.com/SHAVIV-151-292...eywords=shaviv
Jim
Started printing the parts and the extruder block in 1.75 and in 3mm says not manifold.
Did you print it anyway?
Almost done waiting on a few parts. I must say this is a well thought out and nice design.
Waiting on belts from China. Everything's gone together nicely.
Attachment 3905
Lookin' good. I hear you on the China part. I actually have all of the parts in now for the kits, except the bearings. Hong Kong post miscategorized the package as ammunition and sent it back to the supplier.
Nice.
Paperwork is corrected, and it's in flight again. I'll be ready to ship as soon as they arrive.
200g is really good for that TQ and the length fits within the belts
maybe a Nema 17ver is called for clough42
and my i3v is on it's way
keep an eye on the build log for updates
this mod will be on the list very soon
i just ordered 2mm pitch acme for my printer i want to get z a little faster and lets face it 4000 steps per mm is over kill 1000 steps per mm is damn good
2mm acme +16micro is still 1600 steps and if you take that in to account with the limits of the ATmega chips at around 16,000-18,000 steps per second
16000/1600 net me a max safe speed of 10mm/s in the Z axis
16000/80 is 200mm/s X or Y
this number has some flex to it but just remember each output stacks so a 100mm/s in Y and 100mm/s in X stacks to 200mm/s
this is thanks to the single core mini pin head of a brain AVR based controllers have
i wish amtel had a plain atmega with a 80mhz clock so normal firmware worked with lite mods and not a full rewrite.
but hey that just a dream right lol
If that 2mm acme works out for you, I may try that at some point. Sure, the .8mm pitch rod that came with the kits allows a theoretical 0.00025mm layer height, but I never attempted anything below 0.1mm layers. I don't think I'll have any need to get that level of detail in Z.
Got my deburring tool today. It's really nice and is so much better than the back side of an xacto.
First print with the Itty Bitty Nema17 Modified Magma hot Ends. . We are only using one drive as someone ordered the wrong hobbed bolts (That would be me). So far its printing nice without any setting changes. Very happy with the fit form and function thanks RobH for the 17 model and Clough for the design. still need to tidy up the wires and get the auto bed level working.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psnzhnx6sw.jpghttp://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psfgernb0w.jpg
Really good to hear. So the main body rebuild was good? Any tolerance issues?
Just discovered and issue when the motor mounts heat up the attach points sag causing the belt to loose tension. It will need to be reinforced.
Tell me what you think will fix it. Maybe a plate with 4 holes and a center hole for for the pulley? I can put a hole in the middle for it to stick through. Maybe the arms are a bit thicker? Tell me what you need and I'll modify it.
This is not the prettiest model but it might do the trick. If so, I'll make it nicer later. I know it's a long print but if you think this will do it give it a go.
It must warp a alot because the best part about 'clough42' using belts is that they don't skip unless they get really loose. Are you pushing too many amps through the motors maybe? Mine don't run very hot.
Attachment 3972
You need to reduce the motor temperature (reduce current) or add cooling to the motors. Adding more plastic to the mount is unlikely to help for long. You should have lots of torque headroom to reduce the current with those motors.
The NEMA14 motors I specify never get hotter than about 45C with the current pot set at .3V.
This might help you Steve.
Turn the stepper the pots down to the very minimum, manually set an extrude (with no filament in to save materials) in gcode and start turning the pots up until the motor starts to run. All of my motors ran fine at the lowest amp setting. The torque was a bit weak though. I could stop the motor easily by holding the G2T pulley. So, I turned it's put up the tiniest bit. Now when I grabbed it, and couldn't stop it. At the very lowest pot setting that prevented me from overpowering the motor is where I set it. I did this for all my motors, not just the new extruder motors.
Now, for me, the printer is much quieter. It was never loud, but it was sometimes noisy. Now it purrs. It appears I was overdriving all of my stepper motors even though they were set at 1/4 of the range by default. I'd say the pots are at 1/8 right now. I can also hold all of my motors with bare fingers and they don't get so hot that I have to remove my grasp. So I'm with clough42, I'm somewhere around 45-50C.
Agree the motor was very hot to the touch. I turned it down I'll do the min settings while running. Thanks for the suggestions.