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Newer model Qidi X-One (X-One 2) comes with hood and door. That is the version Amazon shipped me a few weeks ago. It does a pretty good job with ABS although based on my recent experience and CA's comments I don't know why we would really want to use the stuff when there are better and easier to print choices for most applications.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveB
I found the fuse, it is a little F8AL250v glass fuse in the power socket. It isn't blown... the wire is intact... but I put my meter on it and it is open circuit. It is possible that the fuse was damaged in transit and one end come loose from the metal cap. Need to see if I can find one of those around locally. Might be tough now Radio Shack is gone.
Oddly I had a 1 amp version of this around... I tried it and it blew. Not surprising since the F8 is an 8 amp fuse.
Qidi to the rescue... My Qidi XOne came with a little tool kit that included 2 spare fuses with exact same spec. Popped on in to the KnP and viola, back in business. Running a test print now. I did discover that S3D using the KnP profile directly outputs x3g files saving the need for manual conversion. The other thing I discovered and don't have a solution to yet is that the machine ignored the heated bed request and setpoint for the PLA test print I am running. The default had been no heat and I changed it to 40C but the machine ignored the setting?? Seems to be sticking fine regardless and printing fine.
2 other observations with the KnP:
1. It seems looser and noisier than my Qidi. I think I'll put some silglyde on the sliders.
2. The 2 extruders are not even, the right one is noticeably closer to the build table. This might be a real problem preventing me from using the left extruder, unless there is a way to adjust the nozzle height. If that can't be fixed I will have to return it... or maybe get a new dual extruder head from KnP. I looks like one nozzle might just be threaded in a bit more than the other. So maybe half a turn with a wrench is all it needs?
Found this in the KnP manual, LOL. This printer was a good deal, but it is also a good deal of work. I will keep looking for online instructions to adjust the nozzle. I pulled the fan and there doesn't seem to be an obvious way to get at it.
"The left nozzle is higher than the right one and it’s resulting in printing issues on the left side. Contact KNK USA and we will assist you in making an adjustment to that nozzle."
Good to hear it was just the fuse. Mine shipped today. Should arrive Thursday.Quote:
Originally Posted by raylo32
Just saw that the knp price has jumped up to $499.
I paid $299 plus about $45 shipping. Maybe the $499 includes free shipping? Jury is still out on this thing, though. I am not convinced yet that the second extruder will be useful. The printer printed OK with just the right extruder when the left was higher and out of the way. But after lowering the left to be about equal to the right and after leveling the table to the right extruder, I still see subtle differences in the clearances between the 2 extruders at different parts of the table and I am having issues where the inactive extruder catches on the print and ruins it. I guess it is possible the table isn't completely flat. I am going to install a piece of glass, re level it and see if that helps. I picked up some cheap picture frames from Michaels for the glass. That is what I am using on the Qidi X-One and it works great. Frames were on sale for $5 and have two panes of glass each. Not a perfect fit but having some hanging over the edge isn't an issue.
Meanwhile my Qidi chugs happily along printing anything I throw at it. Perhaps I should have just got another one of those.
Just looked again today. Price is now $499.
Yeah, at $299 we got the deal!
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCFatBoy
Not sure if you read my KnP startup up posts but if I were you I'd check that the extruder nozzles are level before you load filament. Mine weren't even close. I have adjusted the left one down so they both print but may go back and try to get them even closer to equal. Mine are close enough now that I am judging "equal" mostly based on friction on a leveling paper. One approach that might work is to loosen both completely so there is no stiction then turn the table lead screw to run the table up so they both rest on it... then tighten the set screws. Or you might be lucky and get a unit that was properly calibrated.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCFatBoy
And hope the table is properly leveled... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by raylo32
I wouldn't count on that. Leveling the table is simple, tho.
For those of you with the KnP I have designed a simple accessory to better secure the filament spools, available at the link below. I am also working on a z-axis shim for use with a glass build plate. I just need to test print and maybe tweak a few dimensions. I'll post it up here when I am done.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2559323
Glass is better?Quote:
Originally Posted by raylo32
It is for me. There are lots of ways to go... painters tape/w glue stick for PLA, painters tape with ABS juice for ABS. I use glass table with hair spray for everything and seems to work best and easiest for me. Very repeatable and you get a nice smooth finish on the bottom. Others use Printbite or other manufactured product which I haven't tried myself yet. If this is your first printer you will need to see what works best for you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCFatBoy
Just to jump in here, I find the green Frog tape ( different kind of painters tape ) sticks to the glass better than blue, and I dont seem to need glue ( for PLA) When I used blue painters tape (3m brand) the model will pull up the tape as I try to remove the model.Quote:
Originally Posted by raylo32
Just my experience... and 2 cents worth.
That's funny I was using Frog Tape, too, since that's what I had around, just stuck to the OEM printer table. Now with glass and aquanet I don't use tape at all anymore.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjf55
Double funny, I tried Aquanet and did not have a good experience. Put a funny film on the part also didn't stick all that well. Maybe (probably) I didn't apply it correctly. So I went back to Frog tape.Quote:
Originally Posted by raylo32
Meant to add what is your Aquanet application method, how much, how often, how do you know enough is enough. Sorry to take this thread in a slight detour.
I've done it a couple of ways. I watched a youtube video and this guy said to spray a few heavy layers on and let it dry. That worked well, but I have fastened my glass to the bed and don't really want to be spraying inside the machine. So I came up with an alternate method to just spray a paper towel good and wet and apply by wiping to a preheated bed, like 60 degrees. Spray, wipe and repeat a couple of times. It dries pretty much instantly and you are ready to go. It seems to work well with most materials but best with ABS. When the bed cools the ABS part is totally unstuck. Amazing. PLA seems to stay stuck a bit even when it cools so sometimes takes some work to release.
Edit: I don't really know how often to refresh the Aquanet or clean and reapply since I am pretty much printing on my original application after a couple dozen models.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjf55
I see a few folks have downloaded my KnP spool spacer over on Thingiverse. I have just uploaded a V2 design that includes some tabs to squeeze that make it much easier to remove. Not a huge deal or big change but that is one thing I found a little difficult with the original design.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2559323
Thanks for that, I'll have to give it a try again.Quote:
Originally Posted by raylo32
I finished the Z=axis shim for adding a glass plate to the KnP, 3mm and 2mm sizes.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563761
raylo32, it not there (yet?) did you actually publish it ( that bit me once )Quote:
Originally Posted by raylo32
you know you can adjust up to at least 5mm z-height just by using the adjuster knobs ?
ie: you simply don't need shims unless you're adding something really thick.
Amazing how many people do things like that when it's not actually necessary.
As far filament holding the best I've found is this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:430453
I use it with 8mm diameter carriage bolts. I wrap some plumbers tape around the pointy end which also stops the reel sliding off.
I've got filament spools with all sorts of different diameter holes. Everything from 10mm (flexismart 200gm roll), all taulman spools are around 12mm, on up to ones big enough to put my arm through. So the standard 30mm diameter shaft is pretty much useless.
The long thin metal bolts work a lot better.
On my delta I use an angled spoolholder which prevents filament tangling round the spool holder, and uses gravity to hold the spool against the machine. Would be pretty easy to make one for the replicator clone machines.
Exactly right. It's up now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjf55
I do indeed know that and that's how I have my KnP operating now with a 2mm glass. But it isn't an ideal solution. I had to really crank the adjusters tight to get there and the springs are pretty much fully compressed. I don't think it would work with a 3mm piece and if so it would be very very tight... too tight... at least on mine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by curious aardvark
So, PLA will not stick to the platform as is?Quote:
Originally Posted by raylo32
I doubt it but I didn't try. The build plate has kapton tape on it and I think that is supposed to be for ABS but not sure. Pull up the user manual to see what they recommend. It does discuss this. I have only used painters tape smeared with glue stick and glass with hairspray for PLA so I just went with what works for me. Others might be able to add to this....
http://knp3d.com/manual/UM/KNP3D-UM.pdf
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCFatBoy
I got two sticky sheets with my knp. one had a paper type surface the other plastic. Currently I have the plastic sheet stuck to the bed and I use pva gluesticks on top of that. Works really well.
Haven't added anything to thick to the knp - but I do have an extra 4mm on the flashforge creator and ahd no problems adjusting bed down that much just with bolts.
You could also simply add the correct z-offset to your slicer.
You might even be able to add it in in the firmware from the control panel. Have to admit I've never looked, but should be in there somewhere.
Well that's rather odd. The KNP is back down to $299. Go figure... Guess their sales dropped to zero when they bumped the price to $499.
I still can't believe $299 for this thing. The electronics and power supply all seem to be pretty well made. Metal frame, dual extruder. I guess at this price point the extruders aren't high end but they are plenty capable of printing the high temp stuff, like ABS and PETG. I guess it just goes to show how in a world awash in cheap clones marketing and brand recognition still matter and can affect prices greatly.
Here's what Accugraphics told me with regards to it being a copy of a Makerbot.Quote:
Originally Posted by curious aardvark
"We hit the streets ande sold some, but the owners did not want to spend much on advertising, and when you look only at specs, the KNP is pretty much on par with the Makerbot and clones, on paper. However, what isn't widely known is that we tested the other machines and found limitations. Even the Makerbot and FlashForge machines have limits, because they simply built and were fine with being able to print only certain layer sizes well. There is a mathematical clash between the resolution of the extruder motors and the pitch of the z axis rod, so that layers not of the right size give erratic results. We charged our engineers with solving this, and also had them improve the ooze from the nozzle when idle, a heat dissipation problem. They did well. So we didn't sell what we should, and wouldn't advertise, but instead relied on word of mouth. Well, our buyers love it, but they must not know many people! so we are blowing them out at the most competitive price we can, even with the loss. We are investigating new innovations to allow making as good or better quality, and maintain an acceptable price, but I can assure you it won't be in an expensive steel frame and painted cabinet! I have been here for about 20 years, and have seen many projects that just wouldn't pay, so we change tracks. We still stand good for the warranty, and parts if needed, but we are working on our next generation machine, which should be profitable. "
Based on replicator dual is what i said.
All the different clones have variations.
The knp is one of the highest quality around.
Nozzle ooze is no different than my flashforge creator. Extryder setup is standard, no innovations I can see.
But Like I said - great build quality :-)
And stupid value for money at the current price.
At the end of the day it's an unenclosed replicator pro for the price of a plywood ctc creator standard that will, most likely, not work.