Best practice with ABS: no delamination, no cracking, no warping.

**jimc** · 01-14-2015, 05:17 PM

thats great and all but the vase models you are printing are not going to be prone to warping and are not any kind of warp test at all. almost anyone can print them in abs with their normal setting and come out great looking. its inherent in the design. to really see what you have as far as warping and layer adhesion you need to print the same object to compare results. for this make yourself an 100x50mm box with 2mm walls. print the box 2" high. use the same model over and over with each change then compare results. any way you look at it, you are not going to stop mother nature. abs will warp no matter what you do. why everyone uses abs anymore i have no idea. move on to pet. its 5-10 time as strong as abs, almost the same heat resistance and almost no warp.

**abuharsky** · 01-14-2015, 06:16 PM

Originally Posted by jimc

thats great and all but the vase models you are printing are not going to be prone to warping and are not any kind of warp test at all. almost anyone can print them in abs with their normal setting and come out great looking. its inherent in the design. to really see what you have as far as warping and layer adhesion you need to print the same object to compare results. for this make yourself an 100x50mm box with 2mm walls. print the box 2" high. use the same model over and over with each change then compare results. any way you look at it, you are not going to stop mother nature. abs will warp no matter what you do. why everyone uses abs anymore i have no idea. move on to pet. its 5-10 time as strong as abs, almost the same heat resistance and almost no warp.

First, warping can be stopped by setting highter temp on heated bed, I used 120C.
Second, warping can be stopped by using brim, I used 5-15mm depends on model.
Third, you can stop wapring using "ABS juice" or hairspray or some other...

Warping just slightly changes the model, but do not spoil it, you can use warped models, BUT you can't use models with delaminations.

The basic idea of my article - is to fight delaminations and cracks.

Also, I don't post it yet, but I have already printed few boxes 100mm x 100mm x 80-100mm(height) with thick wall and bottom (about 2-4mm),

you can see more photos here -> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:440203

Some of the boxes i printed with 1, some with 2,3,4 perimeters and infill from 15 to 50%.
Result: every model with ZERO cracks and delaminations, most of models with ZERO warpings, some models with little warpings(5-10mm) at the corners.
All prints on the capton tape without any sprays. Bed temp 100-120C.

About using ABS:
I spent a lot of time experimenting with ABS and all the time he peeled, cracked, and so on. Many times I threw this idea, but again came back to it and finally found its secret. ABS is very cheap, I buy it from a local manufacturer for $8-12 per kg and now I can print from it many things, there's a reason for me to use ABS.

**beerdart** · 01-14-2015, 06:23 PM

I rarely have any warp issues with ABS.

**sniffle** · 01-14-2015, 06:54 PM

wow thats cheap!! who is this?

**abuharsky** · 01-15-2015, 02:27 AM

Originally Posted by sniffle

wow thats cheap!! who is this?

http://www.npo-plastic.ru/catalog1/prutok_printer/

**sniffle** · 01-15-2015, 07:08 AM

Awww thats really far away for me

**adamfilip** · 01-15-2015, 01:12 PM

How much ABS to Acetone?
confused about the ratio

**AbuMaia** · 01-15-2015, 09:16 PM

For what? For "ABS Juice" for print adhesion, I just got a 32 oz spray bottle from the hardware store, filled it about 24 oz full of acetone, then slipped in old brims and skirts. I didn't keep track of how much, though. It's still pretty thin, thin enough to be sprayed.

I also have another glass bottle of acetone in which I put much more ABS, to make a thicker slurry with which to repair cracks or glue parts together.

**sniffle** · 01-15-2015, 11:07 PM

Ive honestly been having great adhesion with glue stick. We all have our things though.

So my prints are coming out looking much better right now after turning the heat up 15 degrees. I need to do some of the test/calibration tests after i finish. printing the kossel parts for a friend.

I'm going to go down that rabbjt hole pretty far now that i can print nice looking parts. Im hoping i can push the envelope on speed and accuracy and keep it there without too much work.

**usarmyaircav** · 01-16-2015, 11:17 AM

Sniffle what are you using for a power supply? I bought one of the 350watt 30Amp LED PS that can mount on the printer, and while it works great with the Hot-End at 235 and bed at 105, if I put the bed at 110, I go from about a 7 minute heat up time to about close to 20. I am using the relay that came with the printer.