heads not level - thoughts please :-)

[jfkansas]

Attachment 3083

So does anyone know how to raise the right head ?
Probably only about a half or quarter mil difference. But it means I can't calibrate both nozzles to the same degree.

As I only used it briefly when I got the machine and it got jammed and basically I've been using the left head since then. I have no idea if it came like this. Or if I somehow lowered it by unscrewing it and replacing it. I couldn't calibrate properly from day one. That was mostly the unlevel bed - but this might have also been an issue.
Both heads are fully screwed in and won't go any further. So it's not that.

Either way it's no good as it is.
I did think maybe unscrew the left one a half turn - but the left head has always behaved impeccably, so i don't want to bugger it up.

Help !

My current thought is loosen the right carriage bolt and stick a couple sheets of paper on the right side to level the carriage directly. But that might bugger up the left nozzle, maybe. It'll be tilted - only very very slightly, but still tilted.

Anyone got any better ideas ?

I have a new extruder mounting system in the works. First samples are being cut right now. If anyone is interested in the first samples PM me. I am going to sell below my cost in the initial batch. The initial tooling is very expensive so just looking to recoup some of the costs.


Screen Shot 2014-10-20 at 10.11.46 AM.jpg

Here is a sample of what I will be offering. It is a complete redesign of the cooling bar and filament guides. All in Machined aluminum. New heatsinks will be included.

As you can see in the picture. I am using a clamping bolt from the sides. This will allow both extruder mounting tubes to be loosened and then you can jog the build plate up until both touch the plate. Then you can just tighten the clamps.

In addition, the heatsinks are much more user friendly. No more nylon spacers and screws that hold the steppers through the fan. The steppers and Heatsinks bolt directly to the the cooling bar. Then the fans mount to the heat sinks with screws at the top.

[Mjolinor]

May I ask where you got the 0.3 nozzles for the Flashforge? Flashforge themselves wont sell me anything below 0.4... and I would really want some 0.25mm (but I'd settle for 0.3mm)

I don't have a Flashforge, I have a Wanhao. I have spent most of thread trying to find out what the difference is but no one seems to want me to know.

[curious aardvark]

I can't understand your problem getting nozzles. I just bought 10 for a few $ and bought heat tubes the same way. Is yours different from mine or what?

from where ?
I know the buggers are out there - just don't want to buy from a dozen different suppliers to find the one that fits my machine.

Ah I think the wanhao uses a different extruder. It's a lot more expensive than the flashforge so I'm guessing it's not identical.
We could meet up and compare machines - can't think of any other way of finding out the difference :-)
You're about 110 miles away - which could be as a short as 2 hours, depending on delays on the m6 :-)
Or you could measure your nozzle and I'll measure mine and we'll see if they're the same. That's probably a more practical approach :-)


The problem is you can get the flashforge nozzles from the states for not cheap money - or things on ebay that are really cheap but either the wrong thread or hole not big enough for the tube.
And there's no way of knowing without buying. I have yet to seea supplier on ebay use apicture of the end of the nozzle so you can't tell how large the bore is.

My mate has access to industiral tool making kit, so I might just buy a bunch of cheap nozzles and get him to drill them out to the right diameter.

I'd also like some spare tubes - but again can't find any uk suppliers - or chinese ones come to that.

I think I'm the old style nozzle, certainly looks like that in the pictures.

[Mjolinor]

I bought 10, I can send you a couple to try. These are 0.3 but you can bore them out if you want.

[curious aardvark]

if you've got some digital calipers just measure the thread length to the hexagonal piece and the hexagonal piece to the tip of the nozzle and the internal diameter of the main bore.
And i'll compare that to mine :-)

Thanks for the offer - but if they're the same I'll just buy some myself :-)

these italian guys on ebay seem to do them and down to 0.2mm diameter as well dargonfly.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ESTRUSORE-...item4d2274ba47

But they want £6 postage for something that might weigh 5 grams.
You could probably tape it to a postcard and it'd get here.

I think I'm either a mk7 or mk8 extruder. Probably a mk7 looking at the ebay adverts for the machines.
I have no idea what the difference is or how you tell which is which.

[Mjolinor]

Pictures

guvcview_image-14.jpgguvcview_image-15.jpgguvcview_image-17.jpg

The thread is a standard M6.

These are the ones I bought:
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6189638840.html

[Mjolinor]

I don't see that thread length is important really. You just screw it in all the way and then screw the heat transfer tube down tight to it.

[jfkansas]

The Flashforge threads are M7 x 1

It is better to screw the nozzle into the heat transfer tube. Otherwise you will have to fully disassemble the hot end to reseat the heat tube to the nozzle.

You should be able to do most maintenance with the hot end assembled and installed in the cooling bar. Just heat and use a wrench to unscrew the nozzle from the bottom. The teflon tube will generally come out with the nozzle.

[Mjolinor]

They must be completely different from the Wanhao then. The nozzle and the heat tube both screw into the heat block. The nozzle does not screw into the heat tube.

[jfkansas]

Yes, must be different. The teflon tube inserts about 5mm into the actual nozzle then the rest of the teflon tube goes up the heat tube to almost where the filament enters. I am working also on a new heaterblock and heat tube that is all metal and takes the 6mm threads, but still goes into the ~7.8mm opening of the flashforge cooling bar.