The Simplify3d Tips and Information Thread

[ssayer]

I posted this over in S3D's forums a couple of days ago, but I guess someone didn't want to read it, because it isn't there. I'm running Win8.1/64bit S3D, so though it probably is the same in all versions, maybe it isn't.

Try this:
Import a model (something irregular and "blocky" so that you're completely sure of orientation)
Double click the model
Try the Rotational Offsets, X, Y, and Z, one at a time moving each back to zero before trying the next just so that you see that all works as expected.
Now, move the Z-axis Rotation 90 deg and leave it there
and... NOW move X and Y

On my machine both X and Y now move in the same plane, so... If I move X 30 deg and Y -30 deg I end up with the part as though I'd never moved either.

OTOH, if I move Z 90 deg and then SAVE. When I double click the model X and Y move as they should.

Bug? Or is this just the way it is with S3D?

[lucidpsykosis]

Have you had any luck printing with the Dreamer yet? I used their autoconfigure and selected the Dreamer...definitely a change there, as the Dreamer didn't show up in their configuration list before.

However, when I go to the Process menu and want to choose a profile, Dreamer isn't one of the machines listed.

Also, in the Machine menu, I just get a "Port not found" error when I try to connect to the Dreamer.

So, tried printing to SD card...put the card in, go to print...it did wait for the bed to heat up, but started trying to print before the extruder heated. Once the extruder hit printing temperature it started laying down PLA, but by that time it was well into the "build."

I emailed customer support about the USB, and this is what they sent me (basically says the USB feature isn't ready yet):

"Thank you for contacting Simplify3D support. Thank you also for your offer to provide information about the FlashForge Dreamer, however we actually have a FlashForge Dreamer in our office that we are actively testing on and working to provide USB support with. The FlashForge Dreamer uses a different protocol than most of the printers on the market which is why it will require research and development to offer compatibility. However, as you mentioned SD card is fully compatible as well as the option to save .Gcode files and use FlashPrint to route them over a Wifi connection to your printer is also an option!"

So, I guess we'll see what happens.

[curious aardvark]

have to give that a try - pretty sure all the rotation I've done have worked.

[soofle616]

Finally took the plunge, ugh I hate having to learn a new workflow especially when I've just become proficient with the previous package. My first print is in process right now. Makerware all but crashed trying to slice it, never did let it finish trying. S3d did it fairly quickly so props there. I'm a little dissapointed in the auto supports though. Yes I realize I can manually add supports and at least for this print it seems I will have to but there was a straight up horizontal overhang that S3d didn't bother to put anything under. I dunno if it thought the overhang wasn't long enough to need it or what but that part of the print has definitely failed. I'm letting the print finish because it's 3 identical parts printed in 3 different orientations so I can evaluate strength for each for my application. Other than that, things seem to be going fine for now. Just gotta get past the initial "how the hell do I do this"

[Serena]

Finally took the plunge, ugh I hate having to learn a new workflow especially when I've just become proficient with the previous package. My first print is in process right now. Makerware all but crashed trying to slice it, never did let it finish trying. S3d did it fairly quickly so props there. I'm a little dissapointed in the auto supports though. Yes I realize I can manually add supports and at least for this print it seems I will have to but there was a straight up horizontal overhang that S3d didn't bother to put anything under. I dunno if it thought the overhang wasn't long enough to need it or what but that part of the print has definitely failed. I'm letting the print finish because it's 3 identical parts printed in 3 different orientations so I can evaluate strength for each for my application. Other than that, things seem to be going fine for now. Just gotta get past the initial "how the hell do I do this"

I usually adjust the angle on the auto support function to get the results I want. When you are looking at the model on the right side- the bottom tool button is for manual supports (looks like columns). Adjust the angle of the overhang and hit "apply based on overhang angle" tweak that until you see the results you want. It's quicker than doing them manually. Then I may tweak them if it's given me too many supports but it's a quick way to get it done.

[jimc]

ok, you wont have the issue with support if you understand how it all works. the support system in s3d is based on a grid. it looks like a piece of graph paper. the size of the squares are set by the "support pillar resolution". 2mm is a good size for an average print. what happens is when a support grid square becomes covered a certain percentage then that square is activated and a pillar is produced. if you have a fine detail part with an overhang that sticks out but doesnt cover enough of the grid to activate that square then that is when you have an issue with unsupported overhangs. you can correct this by lowering the resolution and turn on a setting called "extra inflation distance". 1mm seems to be a good middle of the road setting with this. inflation distance takes the generated support and expands it outward basically covering those areas that overhang but arent large enough to activate the pillar. hope this makes it understandable.

[soofle616]

ok, you wont have the issue with support if you understand how it all works. the support system in s3d is based on a grid. it looks like a piece of graph paper. the size of the squares are set by the "support pillar resolution". 2mm is a good size for an average print. what happens is when a support grid square becomes covered a certain percentage then that square is activated and a pillar is produced. if you have a fine detail part with an overhang that sticks out but doesnt cover enough of the grid to activate that square then that is when you have an issue with unsupported overhangs. you can correct this by lowering the resolution and turn on a setting called "extra inflation distance". 1mm seems to be a good middle of the road setting with this. inflation distance takes the generated support and expands it outward basically covering those areas that overhang but arent large enough to activate the pillar. hope this makes it understandable.

That was helpful thanks. I did try serena's suggestion of adjusting the angle and combined that with reducing the pillar resolution and things got a bit better overall. Definitely much easier than placing manual pillars. I'm curious about your .2mm resolution though. If I try to set anything less than 1mm in that field as soon as I click somewhere else, hit enter, whatever, it goes back to 1mm so it seems I can't go lower than that. At 1mm I did get some good results. Is there somewhere else I should be looking to adjust the resolution lower though?

[jimc]

Haha actually that was the period from the previous sentence. Its actually 2mm. You can use 1mm. No need ti go lower. You need to turn on the i flation distance. This wont show in the pillars but you will see a difference in the preview.

[soofle616]

Haha actually that was the period from the previous sentence. Its actually 2mm. You can use 1mm. No need ti go lower. You need to turn on the i flation distance. This wont show in the pillars but you will see a difference in the preview.

Lol, ok I see it now, that had me a bit confused. Thanks for clarifying.

[soofle616]

In other news, holy christ what a learning curve this software has. Sadly, it took a print to fail 3 hours into an 8 hour build for me to dig into the options enough to really understand what I can actually do with the package. I was quite literally composing an email to s3d support to request a refund so I could go back to makerware when I opted to start digging in. I haven't tried another print yet because my day will be over before the print finishes so I don't want to leave the thing running until I get back on monday.

The short version is that I have some overhangs that exist quite high up on the part (like 80mm or so). The supports were being built as long, single line wide walls. At some point the nozzle must have clipped the top edge of one of the supports because it broke off due to lack of lateral strength since none of the support walls were tied to each other as they are in makerware. I've since discovered that I can add angles to the support infill the same way I can for part infill. Added 45 degrees along with the standard 0 and now have lots of crosslinking which should make the supports much sturdier and allow me to make them less denser overall. We shall see what happens when I fire it back up tonight