Design Approach and Filament Reco Needed

[VmusicV]

Hi, I have designed a part for a guitar pedalboard. You can see guitar pedalboards at pedaltrain.com. - basically these are aluminum frames with slats to mount effects pedals and controllers on - for guitarists. The part I am making is a plastic platform (so to speak) that will support a pedal or a foot switch, that is too big for the aluminum slats that are already on the pedalboard. In the picture you can see the foot switch is wider or longer than the aluminum slats that exists on the pedalboard. Please note: I want to place it where I have it in the picture; moving or repositioning the pedal or footswitch is not an option here. PLEASE see the image attachments for a visual on this. My questions are:1) Is my design approach (that of creating a larger platform of sorts) - and the design aspect that "embeds" or sits, or fits the 3D printed platform down on /into the pedalboard in between the opening between the aluminum slats.2) What material should I use, considering that dozens of times each night I am pressing these foot switches. Now I am not jumping up and down on the pedalboard or anything, but I do press the foot switches dozens of times each gig. Thanks!! for the answer to these 2 questionsAJ

[RobH2]

I think I'd probably suggest ABS or Nylon. Both are know for their impact resistence and for not being brittle. ABS is probably easier to print if you are doing it yourself. I'd also use more walls than normal, maybe 5 or 6 so that it's extra strong and maybe make the infill 30% or so. Those settings are overkill for most things but since it's going to get banged on a lot if might make it last longer.

[airscapes]

This design should work fine. However it seems that wood or pvc trim would be faster easer and less expensive.
Fare as this model goes, I assume you know you would print that with the flat surface on the bed and the 2 bosses that drop into the slots facing up.
I would use PETG and a larger nozzle. Sounds like you are new to this and probably only have whatever nozzle shipped with your machine, probably .4mm. So you would want 4 perimeters and I would go 50% infill using the maximum layer height for your nozzle size, probably .3mm or .35mm if .4mm nozzle. I would use 4 top and 4 bottom layers. If you have access to larger nozzles, a 1mm nozzle would be ideal for a part like this.
Again lumber would be faster, cheaper, stronger and all around a better material for the purpose.

[RobH2]

Yea, I think that's some pretty good advice from @airscapes. I'd hate to see that print get 90% of the way through, lift and curl. A roll of plastic gone... Whatever you do, post back a few photos.

[VmusicV]

For this application; a platform that is "fit into" an aluminum frame..... and will be "pressed on" many times; which filament might be better PETG vs. PLA+ (tough PLA)

[RobH2]

I'd pick PETG from those two but I still feel ABS filament or Nylon filament would be better. They are less brittle and won't as easily crack or shatter if dropped or banged. They are a little harder for print, but you aren't going for beauty.

[airscapes]

I'd pick PETG from those two but I still feel ABS filament or Nylon filament would be better. They are less brittle and won't as easily crack or shatter if dropped or banged. They are a little harder for print, but you aren't going for beauty.

That was the correct choice.
Reasons Not to use ABS or Nylon for this project
ABS and Nylon both require an enclosure and you did not say what you have so you may very well have one.
ABS and Nylon warp badly with low layer heights and narrow extrusion widths when making larger flat part such as this.
ABS and Nylon both require different bed surfaces for maximum adhesion to prevent warping
Nylon MUST BE dried in a dehydrator over night before each and every use no matter how you store it including vacuum sealing

PETG Also need to be dried once it has been open long enough even in vacuum seal bags.. my current project just got delayed since both my black and white PETG is wet and full of water pops when extruded..
If you plan on using the more engineering type plastics (everything other than PLA) I would suggest investing in a dehydrator
Good luck with you project!

[VidJunky]

I'm thinking TPU might be the way to go if we're talking durability. Once printed the parts are nearly indestructible. I was having issues with small parts that were breaking, usually along the layer lines, until I printed them in TPU. I can infill to get the firmness I want and didn't have to add a lot of extra walls or anything and the parts have some flex to them. The advantage I see for you with your lipped design would be you wouldn't have to worry about those lips that would sit on the slats being damaged.https://youtu.be/IfSTf8xnaX4?si=ischsfj2OyJWf55d&t=245