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  1. #1

    Help me choose the right printer for me please

    Hello guys and girls. I am absolutely new in world of 3d printing. I know a bit of modeling and technical drawing so I think this will help me making unique designs and printed parts. First I am not even sure which type I should choose. I don't have anything specific in mind for printing - I would like to be versatile as possible, at least until I decide my niche (or maybe I would like to stay versatile all the time). At this moment I am little bit more into resin type because those details and smooth surface is just beautiful to look at, and I like precision. I find a few models that I can buy which have enclosures and even carbon filters built in (because I plan to do printing in my own room - I don't have some workshop or anything similar unfortunately). So I would buy one of those, but before that I would love to know what are the limits with resin - what I cannot do with resin printers - and I could do with FDM printers. This is the most important part of info I need. Later I will tell you exact models to hear your opinions. I believe your experience can help me to make a better choice at start. Thanks in advance guys and girls.

  2. #2
    Staff Engineer
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    900
    Look carefully at the safety considerations for resin printing. The resin is considered a hazardous material and should be treated as such. It's on a par with resin impregnated fiberglass and resin impregnated carbon fiber, specifically epoxy resin. What I've learned in all three areas is that one can use the stuff for an extended period, but the material that is ingested via the lungs (primarily) and the skin eventually reacts with the body. Severe illness is almost a certainty.

    If you intend to print with a resin printer, consider eye protection (splash protection) and skin protection (gloves) but especially breathing protection, using VOC rated carbon filtration masks.

    You're correct about the level of detail possible in resin printing. As you've noted that you don't know what you might be printing, I'd suggest starting with FFF printing (FDM™ is proprietary terminology) as you can get away without the mess and expense of such protection. It will give you the opportunity to have fun with design and creation and also to get a better handle on how things would be if you add a resin printer to the mix.

    I have both and the mess involved with resin printing keeps me on the filament path, but I'll grant that the results for small detailed models is spectacular.

    Also watch out for filament printers on the cheap. Consider to research your considered brand and model of printer on various forums such as Reddit. Having built a Prusa MK3s+ a few years ago, I've become a Prusa fanboy. If you buy the kit, you get a great deal of insight that may come in handy later, plus a big savings in cost. I helped a friend assemble his Vyper filament printer, which is a low cost item and it took about a half hour, as it was mostly two components bolted together. The Prusa, on the other hand, is many components and many more dollars as well.

    Of course, you should post the ones you are considering here to see what others' opinions and experiences have been.

  3. #3
    Thanks for explanation and replying Let's say I go back to FDM printers. I have several possible choices and again I don't know how to choose the best fit for me. Artillery sidewinder x4 plus, Bambu Lab A1, Creality K1C, Elegoo Neptune 4 plus, anycubic kobra 3 or used one Prusa i3 MK3S+ (in good condition)?? Is there a way to choose most reliable printer from those? The differences in prices is not so important for me, as the speed is not too important even the bed size is not too important (anything around 250 square is good). I would like quality of print and reliability of the machine before all, and I like possibility of using more materials (different types of filaments - like ABS or elastic flex ones)

  4. #4
    Staff Engineer
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    900
    If you're aiming for TPU, the flexible stuff, steer clear of bowden tube type printers. It's said they are impossible to use for TPU, but I have a bowden tube type and printed TPU with it with good results. Since you have a defined size, that puts you on a good track. For ABS, you'll want an enclosed printer or plan to build an enclosure, as ABS needs a warmed environment to reduce warping while printing.

    Determining reliability is going to be tougher and requires so much subjective research. That's where forums for specific printers are useful. It can be overwhelming when one considers the quantity of different models.

  5. #5
    I heard (and saw online) that is possible to do ABS even without an enclosure if you have good room temperature and good settings of the printer, even without shields, and I read that it is possible to do it with shields in slicer which helps with stabile temperature of the print itself. Little bit of tinkering and tweaking is even interesting for me, but to some point, I don't want that to become a frustration I agree with you that it's very hard to find proper info on reliability, especially for newer machines. And that is actually my biggest problem I will try to check up specialized forums for specific machines like you suggested. At this moment I am closest to BambuLab A1, but I am still deciding.

  6. #6
    Staff Engineer
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    900
    You may be considering a BambuLab product, but examine the latest news regarding the lockdown going on. Users are getting banned from Discord if they post anything negative about the recent development. Closing off a resource for a specific product line is rarely a good thing.

  7. #7
    I know about this, and I don't like that, but for my first printer it really doesn't matter. If they proceed with this "strategy" I will change the chosen brand easily.

  8. #8
    Staff Engineer Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    Add Roberts_Clif on Thingiverse
    Ok so you are wanting a 3D Printer.
    First printer you stated maybe a Anycubic Kobra 3 currently have two myself and two Hictops 3DP12.
    I find Kobra 3 a working Color 3D Printer though the waste can use more filament for a single multiple color model than in the model itself.
    The 3D Printer model time almost doubles or even triples for a simple model just by the waste from changing of filament colors.

    I have come to the conclusion that the models I will be printing should have each part a single color then assembles after the print completes.

    When you finally make your decision go to world wide web and search for all the pro's and cons about the 3D Printer you chose before you purchase.

    Now my assessment of the Anycubic Kobra 3 Combo As it's purchase as a set is $399.
    It is like any 3D Printer they are not plug-n-play you may hear a lot about how easily they are to assemble and get that first print done.
    I have already posted several complaints to Anycubic about it. though I have fixed and the problems as they have occurred.
    1. For the first few days the printer printed perfectly, then it started to misbehave nothing would stick to the plate had to do a factory restore to fix nozzle height. and start using glue sticks without them nothing sticks to the smooth plates.
    2. Had to disassemble the ACE (Anycubic Color Engine) of course had to reassemble it in working order.
    3. Removed several broken filament pieces clogging the ACE (Anycubic Color Engine) and the Anycubic Kobra 3
    4. Nephew had to remove a large Blob of filament from a hot end assembly, it was destroyed so a replacement was required.
    5. Destroyed 2 build places because the 3D Printer was misbehaving, or it burped and the nozzle took a dive into two bed plate.

    I used a PEI self adhesive sheet to repair and make a non heated or what is called a Cool bed surface.

    Ok OK so this can be quite simple, though in order to keep my 3D Printers running requires many hours of learning, many more in cleaning and lets not forget the maintenance checking the belts bearings lubing replacing consumables. Lets not forget parts that fail or lets talk about what happens during a simple print that does not stick to the bed or separates from the bed during a print all the damage it can cause. You will need to be prepared for the fact that they all will need to be repaired many times during there life span.

    My first 3D Printer was purchased from its original owner for half price because owner could never get it to 3D Print correctly and gave up. I however was prepared, learned everything before this purchase. including watching complete build and dozens of repairs that were posted. After 9 years still have this first 3D Printer in working / Printing condition. Well My Nephew owns it as of yesterday. Though most likely I will still have to repair it for a while while he learns how and tune it. Still have two exactly the same like them so much.

    These are the videos I used to assemble my 3D Hictop 3DP12 as no instructions came with my used printers and theses were the only instructions I could find.

    Part 1 - 4
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-2d3tjvMPA&t=1707s
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cb_CXRrdv3I&t=1074s
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5S8lFf15UY
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTtfS0-CVl0

    There are a couple more though you really do not need them
    Yes! I would do it again what fun is life without some excitement in it. Why would anyone purchase a non-working 3D Printer assembly Kit if not to learn everything.

    P.ss the only thing of importance I did not get was the Assembly instructions. Received the Printer 5:00pm on a friday by monday morning had the first 3D Print coming off the bed.
    Last edited by Roberts_Clif; 01-21-2025 at 09:55 PM.

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