Ender 3v2 poor printing quality

[ETx13]

Hi there!

I've had my v2 for a while now. I'll list my upgrades here:

Springsteel sheet
Stronger bed springs
Metal extruder upgrade
Dual-Z motors and rods
Petsfang V2 parts cooler
BL Touch
Upgraded board to 4.2.7
Running Klipper on a NUC

I haven't used it in a while and last time I printed on it, I left the filament in and then when I went to remove it, it broke off in the PTFE tube (Capricorn). Tried everything to extract the filament but no joy. Ordered new tube, cut it flush, loosened my nozzle after heating it up to 200C, inserted new tube and tightened nozzle.

Found out last year that my aluminum bed is quite warped but my print quality didn't suffer too much. I included a photo of my mesh.

https://imgur.com/a/F4jjyak

As you can see from the pictures, the Benchy I printed looks terrible and I'm really not sure why. Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated!

[Bikeracer2020]

Might be better to tighten nozzle when heat block temperature is approx 20 degrees higher than your normal temps, this will make a better seal on the end of the bowden tube when it cools to your normal printing temperature

[ETx13]

Thank you for the suggestion! Somehow that made things better and worse at the same time? https://imgur.com/a/Id9fgga Really have no clue what happened with the chimney but it looks awful. I think next I'll double check my e-steps and make sure my parts cooler is adjusted correctly. Is there a way to calibrate flow rate or is it one of those settings you just make small adjustments to, print something, inspect and adjust again?

Edit: I was perusing my bajillion bookmarks and completely forgot I had this: Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration so I will follow this guide and see if it will help me (unless someone else can step in and point to a specific issue they can see that is).

[Bikeracer2020]

There is a flow rate calibration file in the pull down menu in Orcaslicer

[ETx13]

So I did a few calibration things yesterday: Adjusted my parts cooler, unziptied my bowden tube, PID Tuned the hot end and finally printed the flow calibration box. The box came out almost perfect, the walls all measured .40 but on each side of the seam there's these little bumps that I'm not sure what caused them: https://imgur.com/a/4Hgz0IP Also, you can see my latest Benchy which looks way better now (minus those little bumps again and some sort of shift happened further up the hull). If there's anything else I need to do to calibrate it, please let me know!