Close



Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
  1. #1

    Newbie/Specific Print for Chess Pieces

    Hello,

    I have been following 3d printing on and off for a few years but recently I actually have a want to get into printing for myself. I am looking to make a 3d set of chess pieces for my father-in-law's chess table he made before he died. Nothing special but I figured this would be a good opportunity for me to learn about downloading schematics and ratios. The chess table has squares that are approximately 2 1/2" apiece so I figured I would try to purchase schematics and learn the basics of ratios and 3d modeling. To me this makes sense and all around learning.

    -What would be a good beginner printer for what I'm working to make
    -Good software for beginners/how to learn to 3d ratio
    -How many colors of filament

    I know that there are several styles of printers but I think ideally I would only need the one that prints one layer at the time (I'm sorry I don't remember the different types)

    Thanks in advance. I'll bookmark this and check back frequently.

  2. #2
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Jun 2022
    Location
    The great state of Texas
    Posts
    167
    Welcome to my second addiction. One of my first projects was a chess set. I've been making cnc patterns for over a decade so switching over to 3d printing wasn't terrible but there was still a learning curve.

    There are two different primary types of 3d printers for hobby/home manufactures (though there are others): FDM and resin. FDM (fused deposition modeling) which extrudes a melted filament a layer at a time and resin which typically uses a UV laser to cure the resin layer by layer. So both "print" one layer at a time but I am assuming you mean FDM. Typically used for bigger models while resin gives better detail and resolution. Distinction is getting smaller as both technologies are getting better.

    I have an Anycubic and Bambu FDM printers. Of the two the Bambu is light years better. That is not necessarily an endorsement as this current generation of FDM printers are pretty amazing. Hopefully there are others that can speak to other brands. Bambu can be a little bit more expensive than others but it just prints.

    There are multiple FDM printers that can print using multiple different colored filaments so the sky is the limit.

    For 3d modeling software you have two major categories of software. CAD or 3d art focused modeling software. If your model is more engineered type of design then CAD is the way to go. If the model is more organic then art focused 3d modeling software is the way to go. You are not limited to one or the other but both have steep learning curves.

    Best of luck. You are going to love the hobby.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by OG56 View Post
    Welcome to my second addiction. One of my first projects was a chess set. I've been making cnc patterns for over a decade so switching over to 3d printing wasn't terrible but there was still a learning curve.

    There are two different primary types of 3d printers for hobby/home manufactures (though there are others): FDM and resin. FDM (fused deposition modeling) which extrudes a melted filament a layer at a time and resin which typically uses a UV laser to cure the resin layer by layer. So both "print" one layer at a time but I am assuming you mean FDM. Typically used for bigger models while resin gives better detail and resolution. Distinction is getting smaller as both technologies are getting better.

    I have an Anycubic and Bambu FDM printers. Of the two the Bambu is light years better. That is not necessarily an endorsement as this current generation of FDM printers are pretty amazing. Hopefully there are others that can speak to other brands. Bambu can be a little bit more expensive than others but it just prints.

    There are multiple FDM printers that can print using multiple different colored filaments so the sky is the limit.

    For 3d modeling software you have two major categories of software. CAD or 3d art focused modeling software. If your model is more engineered type of design then CAD is the way to go. If the model is more organic then art focused 3d modeling software is the way to go. You are not limited to one or the other but both have steep learning curves.

    Best of luck. You are going to love the hobby.
    OK so in theory I'm looking for FDM that has 2 colors. Black and White. I want to create a chess set where I can create the ratio of the pieces and change color when needed. I have looked into FDM and I'm not sure if I need one that has multiple filiments as an option or if I can just change them (white and then black) etc.

  4. #4
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Jun 2022
    Location
    The great state of Texas
    Posts
    167
    Changing filaments manually or allowing the machine to do it automatically are both options. Depends if you want the convenience of having the machine do it for you and the additional cost of the filament changer. Changing filament rolls during a print can be time consuming and tedious if you need to do multiple changes. From a lot of Youtubers, they love their filament changer on their machines.

    Personally, I print in one color and then paint the pieces whatever color I want.

  5. #5
    There are many chess sets out there on the web for free. You do not have to learn to model right off the bat.
    Here is a set I made including the board, is on thingiverse for free.. I used wood infused filament and dyed them different colors .. the board and pieces are all 3d printed. The box was scrap wood. You can take any model and within the slicer software make the larger or smaller.
    https://misc.airscapesart.com/chessset/

  6. #6
    So I have attached the chess table that my father-in-law made before he died.
    table1.jpgtable2.jpg
    The table was made in the early 2000's (before I met her) and I hand painted it about 5 years ago. As you can see the checkers are about 2 5/8" wide'ish. That's my main interest. I want to make the base around 2 1/2" and ratio them appropriately. Since this is a beginner project I don't need multiple filament feeds. That I can worry about later if I decide to upgrade. So a simple system where I can change the filaments but I need it to be tall enough where I can build the queen/king. I hope this helps. Please let me know if there's more info that's needed.

  7. #7
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Jun 2022
    Location
    The great state of Texas
    Posts
    167
    The chess table size is not going to be an issue. So it will come down to your budget and printing speed needs. I will say most FDM printers will be able to print chess pieces that will fit your board. My personal chess set pieces I made with a 2.5" base. The pawns are 5 inches and the rest of the pieces are 6 to 7 inches tall. My Bambu prints up to 10 inches tall. My board is 30" x 30".
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by OG56 View Post
    The chess table size is not going to be an issue. So it will come down to your budget and printing speed needs. I will say most FDM printers will be able to print chess pieces that will fit your board. My personal chess set pieces I made with a 2.5" base. The pawns are 5 inches and the rest of the pieces are 6 to 7 inches tall. My Bambu prints up to 10 inches tall. My board is 30" x 30".
    Can I get what Bambu you use, what software you use for the 3d modeling and how exactly you set the ratio as I am a complete noob.

  9. #9
    Modeling you parts is a software in itself. Slicing the model for printing is another software in itself.
    You can change the size of any model within the slicer by percentage or by entering a size value..
    For instance if i load one of the chest pieces I used into the Slicing software, the X axis (the base) is 27mm wide. In the change scale section, if I type 60mm in that field and have keep uniform scaling checked, it make the base 60mm wide and scales everything else to that.. then you click prepare to print and print it..

  10. #10
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Jun 2022
    Location
    The great state of Texas
    Posts
    167
    It can get daunting with all the options available out there.

    I have a Bambu P1P but I don't recommend it. You can go cheaper with their A1 line of printers to get the same quality or for just a bit more money go with a P1S with an enclosure that lets you print more exotic filaments as your skills grow. They all have filament changers (4 color) available for additional cost but you can chain more together to get even more color options. Also, this new generation of 3d printers are all pretty amazing so shop around. I love my Bambu but that does not mean there aren't other phenomenal printers out there.

    For 3d modeling, there are two main software types for 3d modeling (there are more but in my opinion these are the two main types). CAD and art focused 3d modeling software.

    CAD is perfect for precision pieces with engineered structures. Art 3d modeling software is focused on organic or free flowing designs.

    Both can mostly produce results that the other can do but they achieve them differently. CAD is parametric in structure while 3d art software is typically polygonal modeling (moving points and shapes around).

    I personally use 3d art software. My primary tool is Blender (free) followed by Zbrush (digital sculpting tool) and still learning 3DCoat (another 3d art software). There are dozens of programs to choose from.
    On the CAD side I have Fusion (hobby version) installed on my computer but haven't used it in years. Since CAD and 3d art software work so different my brain has a hard time changing between them. They both have a somewhat steep learning curve but Blender more so.

    For the chess pieces, there are official sizes (United States Chess Federation) if you want to look them up but...you will have a 3d printer. The only thing limiting you is your imagination. Once you find or make a chess set you like size them to the appropriate size to fit your board. My chess is set is not official size. I set the size arbitrarily to what I thought looked good. The pawns are 5 inches tall, the main pieces are 6 inches tall, and the king queen are 7 inches tall. The general theme for my set was fantasy and lich figures borrowing from different time frames.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •