Ender 3 V2 Neo Help

[Kharthus0716]

Hello, I only just got the Ender 3 V2 Neo, and I've been having a lot of trouble calibrating and getting it to work properly. I got the printer used, so that might have something to do with it.Things don't want to stick to the build plate, and the string of the Filament doesn't wanna stick properly either to itself, or to the build plate. The pieces loaded onto the memory card that came with the printer immediately delaminated, and basically fell apart as soon as they were off the plate. I am becoming more and more frustrated as things begin to go well, and then quickly fall apart. Attached i will have pictures of the latest thing i created. Its a dice holder i found online, that turned out better than anything else i made, aside from a configuration cube i made. The issue is that one side of each of them is nearly a 16th of an inch higher than the other side, which i assume is a levelling issue, I've tried levelling the printer again, both manually, and automatically. Any assistance would b appreciated.

[Bikeracer2020]

To me from the pics it looks like a warping problem and one side has lifted off the bed.

I assume you are using PLA? Your bed temp might need increasing, the bed might need a good clean with some IPA.

Suggest that you find a Youtuber called 'Teaching Tech.' and get your first layer right, there are loads of first layer test STL files free to download from such as Prusa Printables.

Then use a standard slicer profile setting for whatever material you are printing with.

https://www.youtube.com/c/TeachingTech
https://www.printables.com/mode

[Kharthus0716]

Yes, I'm using PLA, just the stuff that came with the printer, but i have a new roll of black PLA from Amazon. I have the bed temp set at 60, 65 this time, for the first layer test, however, its doing the same thing. Not adhering at all.

[Bikeracer2020]

Did you clean the bed surface?

Have you checked the initial nozzle distance from the bed using a piece of writing paper and adjust using the bed leveling screws until the nozzle just rubs the paper.

If that is correct then check if there is any 'Z' offset set in your slicer settings. Make it zero after the paper nozzle check.
Do another first layer test.

Reduce it by minus 0.01mm or minus 0.02mm and do another first layer test and see if things improve, repeat until you are appy with the first layer.

[GeneT45]

First, because you got your printer second hand, do a factory reset - who knows what's in your settings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4JFJ9SL-So
Second, watch the linked video. Don't obsess over how much drag on the paper is right, the important thing is that it feels the same at all four corners.

Third, the Creality plastic bed gives up the ghost pretty quick. You should use hairspray (Aqua-Net, unscented) to assure adhesion. This is by far better than glue stick or any of the common alternatives. Expensive specialty alternatives like Magi-Goo might work great as well, but Aqua-Net works perfectly, so why bother?

All that done, I think you'll have a much better time of things. The 'v2 Neo is a solid printer.

GsT

[SparkyNZ]

Hello, I only just got the Ender 3 V2 Neo, and I've been having a lot of trouble calibrating and getting it to work properly.

Did you get this working in the end? I've bought one myself and I'm having similar problems. I bought mine second hand and I'm feeling like I've been ripped off.. but how much could possibly go wrong with a printer? I've tried be leveling.. replace clogged nozzle with a new one. The main problem seems to be getting the filament to stick to the bed but when I printed a test boat Gcode yesterday (I thought I got it working), it printed out like a bird's nest and the texture was uneven on each side. My printer has a 'direct extruder' upgrade. I don't know if there's a problem with that? Maybe I need to unclog the extruder - filament does come out.. sometimes I watch it and wonder if too much is coming out. Unfortunately the printer didn't come with any needles so I'll be giving it all a good clean when some arrive. I'm also wondering if the 0.4mm head is far too small for what I'd like to print? I want to print solid objects - objects with similar wall thickness to typical lego bricks (I actually want to print casings for my electronics PCBs). The bed looks scratched in places too. I'm wondering if a glass bed would help. The current bed seems to be textured. Maybe that's for adhesion but I wonder if a glass bed would be better for removing printed material? I seem to be doing nothing but printing rubbish and scraping it off at the moment. The printer came with a spool of black PLA filament - maybe the filament is wrong? Maybe my nozzle temperature is wrong? The filament is supposed to be for 205-215C. I set my temperature to 210, 220 but results are the same. Whenever the printer starts, it draws a line of filament on the left side of the bed. When it moves to the home point to start the actual print, it drags a line of filament from the bottom left hand corner to the home position. This is making me wonder if too much filament is coming out?? I don't know where the retraction setting is? I guess that's part of the Gcode file?

[Roberts_Clif]

I am having problems sense purchasing this newer what is called a smooth spring steel print bed.
Until I gouged it with the nozzle and covered if with a 2nd attachment PEI self adhesive bed surface.

PEI Prints perfectly, I do not regret purchasing the new textured bed surfaces because once in a blue moon I can get the perfect print seen in 1st attachment.

I went to the internet and found an article saying PLA did not stick tho this material very well.

[SparkyNZ]

I am having problems sense purchasing this newer what is called a smooth spring steel print bed. Until I gouged it with the nozzle and covered if with a 2nd attachment PEI self adhesive bed surface. PEI Prints perfectly, I do not regret purchasing the new textured bed surfaces because once in a blue moon I can get the perfect print seen in 1st attachment. I went to the internet and found an article saying PLA did not stick tho this material very well.

Looking at this advert.. This kinda suggests that I need a smooth surface for PLA and a textured surface for ABS. Is this true? My machine has a (scratched) gold textured PEI plate at the moment and the filament is black PLA. I don't know if my printer can take ABS as well.

[Roberts_Clif]

OK then maybe your nozzle is not at the correct print level.

My 3D Printers are nothing much I found that in a enclosure I can 3D Print ABS at 232C with a bed temp of 96C

Attached is my basic 3D Printer and the 2nd model is a MPCNC Burley I 3D Printed perfectly on 1st Print of all models.
The 3rd picture is of a completed MPCNC 100%

Yes you can 3D Print ABS. I would place in a box or tent where the air can be vented outside Example on link below


https://3dprintboard.com/showthread....ighlight=MPCNC

[SparkyNZ]

OK then maybe your nozzle is not at the correct print level.

Yeah I think there have been a number of factors. I cleaned out the hot end this morning. That made a huge difference. I was able to print out the test bunny model and it looked reasonable. One side looked different from the other in regard to texture but it was way better than the previous 2 days' efforts. I tried printing a case that I'd already had printed by JLCPCB and I was wondering why the printer was dropping filament from about 2mm above the bed. When I checked the model, the edges do actually start 2mm above the bed.. so that got me wondering.. Do people use "auxiliary" or "helper" beds, platforms, wedges or whatever to allow certain printing to begin above the Z=0mm main bed? The case has 2 stalks that start from Z=0 but then the edges of the box start 2mm from the ground (bed). So yeah.. trying to print this model would also confused the hell out of me. This is the model I am talking about: https://www.printables.com/model/497...0-zero-case-v2 When I print the "top" I have the problem. I'm wondering if the model is supposed to be flipped over first prior to printing??