LK5 Pro - Help with hot end assembly

[greenguy]

Had to clean up after some bad clogging and replace the Bowden Tube.
I did not pay attention to the how far the hot end tube was threaded into the heater block.
I noticed putting it back together that where the hot tube bottoms out stops the nozzle from threading all the way in or, with the nozzle threaded all the way in, the hot tube will not thread all the way.
So, which threads all the way? Or is there some middle ground. The manual is short on information on assembling the hot end and in what order are parts are placed.
My assumption would be that the nozzle needs to go as far as possible into the heater block. and then everything else stacks up from there.

Anyone really know?

Since I have cleaned all up, I cannot get the printer to run from more than 30 minutes and it clogs from heat creep. That is that the filament is clogging in the tube and not the nozzle.

[fred_dot_u]

It is indeed known the correct method of assembly for a nozzle/hot end/heat break/heat sink.

In order to ensure that the heat break is properly sealed to the nozzle, the nozzle should be threaded into the heater block, leaving about 0.5 to 1.0 mm gap under the nozzle head. The heat break is then threaded until it contacts the nozzle. With that in place, the heat sink is attached. You may find recommendation to apply thermal grease (lightly) to the heat break portion that threads into the heat sink.

With the assembly secured, heat the block to 260-280 °C and re-tighten the nozzle against the heat break. Use caution to avoid damaging the wiring for the heater core and thermistor.

[greenguy]

Thanks for all the tips. After hitting the internet hard for the way others do it. I have come up with my own proven method.
First I made sure I had good materials.
1) Capricorn Tubing - yes it make a big difference.
2) Good nozzles - the one that came on the LK5 pro was not good.
3) Use the spacer method for tensioning the PTFE inside the hot end. Don't use the push-to-connect tube retaining feature to do it.

To get the Bowden tube the right length in the hot end, I assemble the steel tube into the heat-sink, place the spacer into the top end of the heat-sink and thread on the push-to-connect fitting.
Then I insert a piece of Bowden tubing into the bottom of the hot end that would thread into the heater block. Back off the threads of the push-to-connect fitting by two hex flats (1/3 turn or about 0.25 mm).
Trim off the tubing with a good razor blade such that the trimmed end is completely flush with the tube with a nice flat, smooth cut. Now tighten the push-to-connect fitting. Thread the nozzle into the heater block until snug and back off 1/4 turn (about 0.25 mm. Thread the steel tube with heat-sink into the heater block until snug (finger tight). Mount assembly as is to the X-axis mount and heat the block to maximum (250 C in my case). Once at temperature, finish tightening the nozzle. As far as Bowden tubing goes you can use whatever is desired from there on out because the part that matters is installed in the hot end.
This all worked like a champ for me, and if I have to replace tubing again I only need to replace what is in the hot end. (38 mm or so)