Anycubic Photon Mono X resin residue issue

[lesthegringo]

Hi all, I am using the water washable Eelegoo grey resin on my Mono X, and despite playing around with the settings quite a bit, I am geting reasonable prints, but with quite a large over print for the first mm or so, then after that the outer edges are left with half cured resin as a sort of gellid residue. As a result I am having to mechanically scrape off the gelly stuff, which can be pretty tenacious during the clean up phase, followed by tedious manual removal of the over printed layers.It is set to 0.075 layer height, with only 3 bottom layers, with base layer height is 30 secs with 1.7 for the subsequent layers.Can anyone advise on this? I produce mainly mechanical parts printing direct to the buildplate so that I guarantee a flatt(ish) back face so reducing the over print would be very helpful, even if I have to scrape off the gooCheersLes

[curious aardvark]

I have similiar problems.
Come to the concl;usion that you can't get any kind of fine detail on a first layer.
I believe it's because the a,uminium buildplats scatters and reflects the uv light and just cures a bunch of resin around the actual exposed area.

Not sure if there is a way round it, and it's the main reason I reckon that most people with desktop resin printers stick to models.

Not being to get a detailed first layer pretty much renders mine totally useless for me. :-(

Sticking a non-uv reflective build surface over te aluminium plate might work - haven't tried it yet.

As far as the jelly stuff goes.
Not a clue, never had that.
you're layer heights sound a bit large.

0.025 is what I use. Don't see any point going thicker.
The thinner layers cure better and in less time so the overall print time doesn't change much.
You actually don;t gain anything at all from using thicker layers on a resin printer. But it can cause under exposure issues.

[lesthegringo]

Thanks. I've been working on other bits of my project but will get back to this today, but I will try non-water based resins first to see if the problem continues. Interesting point about layer height, obviously you get a finer resolution print as well.Cheers

[lesthegringo]

Hi againI tried the Elegoo ABS like resin, and while the overprinting essentially disappears, the part cured resin seems to persist on the outside edges of the prints. It's no so bad as with the water based resins, but it's still there, and needs a stiff toothbrushing to remove it.The printer never used to do this, so it makes me wonder if the problem is the LCD screen - maybe that is past its best? I have the UV light set to 70% to try and not burn out the screen, but this is my first resin 3D printer so I don't know what heppens when the screen goesLes

[franckauc]

Hi ! I'm new with SLA printers and i have the same problem with AnyCubic Eco White Resin when I made a calibration test. It forms a kind of residue around the edges not just the first's layers like this. Any ideas how to solve this ?
I use setting:

-1.7s exposure time per layer
-50mm/m lift
-120mm/m retract
-0.25s Light-Off Delay
-70% UV

TEST.jpg

[curious aardvark]

If you oook at the people on youtube printing models, none of thm start the print at the build plate, they all use supports to raise the model off the bed.

I can't think of any other reason except to avoid this outline around the first layers.

I have to say, I' really disillusioned at just how awkward printing a clean first layer is on a resin machine.

Looking into alternative print surfaces at the moment.
Ideally something that doesn't reflect uv light as efficiently as aluminium does.

I've got a project in the works which would definitely benefit from resin printing (making trackballs), just need to get the machine working and sort out a procedure for dealing with uncured resin that you can't put back into the bottle.

Or I might just go with fdm and some sanding lol