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  1. #1

    Exclamation HELP - Filament jam that I can not correct

    HELP -

    Ender 5 pro, all metal drive, Capricorn bowden tube, Creality Enclosiure.

    I did a 19 hour print of a Crocodile Skink in black Creality PLA, came out awesome, decided to do a white one with the same brand filament bought at the same time, new in package, same gcode file. FAIL at 40% - broken off at the drive.

    I get that cleared up, start another one, and FAIL around 40% again. Same problem.

    I check and clean everything, start another print and FAIL at 5%, i just caught it before the gear cut through the filament.

    Clear that jam, double check everything, start another one. FAIL at 20%.

    Rinse and repeat, I try changing the hot end temp, flow rate, speed and it keeps jamming between layer 3 and 10.

    I change to another known good filament (pteg) and different model and have the same problems.

    I replaced the bowden tube, switch to a all metal hot end (started out changing nozzle, but killed the threads so while I was there I just swapped it out). Tried a different print and fail again - same heating element and temp sensor.

    Switch to a known good print with that filament and that fails.

    When it starts "clicking" on the drive end, I can assist with pushing the filament into the drive and it keeps going, but as soon as I release, it jams up again. Tension on the drive seems to be fine insofar if I either increase pressure it binds and obviously release pressure it starts clicking immediately.

    When I just hold my fingers on the filament going into the drive, it feels like it does a retraction READ - the filament shoots back out a few mm, and the clicking starts. Everything points to the hot end, but that should have gone away with the replacement.

    Drive gear is not worn out. Print head cooling fan is working. Printer is only 2 months old, as is my printing experience. It will run a Move Axis Extruder (200mm) with only a couple single clicks, but for some reason I can't isolate the cause of print fail happening.
    Last edited by Sticks; 05-01-2022 at 05:38 PM. Reason: SOLVED

  2. #2
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    what temps and speeds have you tried ?

    Also - have you tried slicing with a different slicer.

    And does it stick on a different model ?

    Also consider mounting the extruder on the hotend carriage for a dirct drive setup.

    Bowden tubes create a lot of friction and it changes all the time, as the angles of bend in the tube change.
    I've never yet seen a creality printer where they've given any thought to the tube length and placement.
    And with a standard cartesian printer - like the ender 5 - a direct drive conversion is just the very first thing anyone should do.

    Switching to a direct drive extruder setup, removes the constant changes in friction, giving a more even and smoother flow, and also massively reduces the lenth the filament that needs to be pushed.

    Also Have you levelled the bed since the problem started ?

    Unless youve already changed the levelling nuts to nylock locking nuts - then the bed will stay level for a couple prints if you're lucky.
    Change to locking nuts and it pretty much always stays level.

  3. #3
    Figures, I will follow up with this later today after work. Main thing that is boggling me is this all started after a flawless print, all I did is change filament and start the same file again after a good purge for color change. now I have replaced everything from the output of the dive to the bed and the problem is still there. I do a bed level before every print, and baby sit for z offset on the first layer start to make sure it is set right.

  4. #4
    curious aardvark - Thank you again for your suggestions. I did not blow this off. Login link was acting funky, and work has been a problem. I have been sent out of town for a week, so it's been 14 hour days to get everything on this jobsite here done before I ship out for the week.

    I have ordered a direct drive upgrade, and have been sitting on an Exoslide upgrade for a while. I am going to just get them all installed and will report back as soon as that is done and a test print happens.

    I know I should probably return everything back to stock to make sure that I don't have something that is adding to my issue to make it one gremlin I am chasing, not a horde (clutch, gaggle...what is a group of Gremlins called again?).

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    what temps and speeds have you tried ?
    I have varied the speeds and reduced the retraction to 2mm, even turned it off on one print
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    Also - have you tried slicing with a different slicer.
    I tried the same model with Cura my default, and Prusa. Both prints failed the same way, at the same level, (6) the Prusa one was using the stock settings for the most part. Cura was tweaked to what I know worked with this PETG
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    And does it stick on a different model ?
    The only sucsessful print that I got was a 13mm square cube for a robot vacuum brush hub, and even then I did hear the occasional "click"
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    Also consider mounting the extruder on the hotend carriage for a dirct drive setup.
    Waiting for time to do all of the mods at once
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    Bowden tubes create a lot of friction and it changes all the time, as the angles of bend in the tube change.
    These recent prints are small, bowden tube has a gentle sweep to the hot end, and the print is only about 80mm x 50mm
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    I've never yet seen a creality printer where they've given any thought to the tube length and placement. And with a standard cartesian printer - like the ender 5 - a direct drive conversion is just the very first thing anyone should do. Switching to a direct drive extruder setup, removes the constant changes in friction, giving a more even and smoother flow, and also massively reduces the lenth the filament that needs to be pushed. Also Have you levelled the bed since the problem started ?
    I level bed prior to every print, and watch the first layer to make any fine tuning needed
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    Unless youve already changed the levelling nuts to nylock locking nuts - then the bed will stay level for a couple prints if you're lucky. Change to locking nuts and it pretty much always stays level.


    Prusa Sliced



    Cura Sliced


  6. #6

    Solved

    Number of different things. Most prominent was the tensioner on the extruder drive was too tight, I had to remove the nutset used to drive the spring. Enclosure that I put it in to keep in heat was making the filament softer exaggerating the problem with the Extruder. Step tuning went way out on the extruder Had to adjust to 117.5 Printing OK now.

  7. #7
    Engineer-in-Training
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    It's good you have found a fix for your problem but I do have another suggestion that might help. Some while ago I had a similar problem with my Sapphire pro which I finally traced to a fault heatsink cooling fan - going too slow. I replaced the fan and all came good.

  8. #8
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Yep, mechanical issue.

    Most 3d printer problems are mechanical in origin.

    Although not according to youtube lol

    Not that youtubers have a vested interest in selling hardware, of course not ;-)

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